Fluorocarbon tips needed.

[The_Bass_Master99]

So I've started using fluorocarbon line on one of my baitcasters for crankbaits, but I keep getting backlashes are almost impossible to get out. Should I set my brakes a certain way.PLEASE HELP.

[WRB]

Not a fan of FC line for crankbaits because of it's memory and doesn't wet, stays dry.

You must use a line conditioner, I use Tangle Free and apply often to keep the line wet and manageable. 

From the discription of the backlashes you need to apply light thumb presence to keep the line from springing loose on the spool.

What # test line? Are you using a moderates action rod?

Adjust the spool end tension knob so the lure falls but doesn't over run when the lure hits the deck.

You also need to learn how to remove a backlash without pulling out the line and damaging it. When you get a backlash the first thing you do is put your thumb tightly down onto the spool and reel the line back onto the reel. Now pull the line off the reel dropping it into the water so it stays untangled. When you get past the last loops, then put some tension on the line between your fingers and respool the line back onto the reel.

Tom

[jr231]

Use braid. With a fluorocarbon leader . 

[Mike L]

I use flouro on the majority of my set ups except for a select few and love it...and rarely use a leader..IMHO its only needed for specific requirements.

Not knowing anything about your setup, I suggest you use a quality 100% product, not one of the coated lines. Also I agree, use a line conditioner when spooling and the day before any outing. I use Line and Lure.

When first useing any type of flouro for the first time and before you settle on one, make a few underhanded roll cast's before you start throwing for distance. It will help you get familiar with it with your current brake setup and the go from there, useing the method WRB posted. 

 

 

Mike 

[Onvacation]

I just don't like fluorocarbon but in some instances, it works well. With that in mind, a change to Seagur Invisx has solved most of my issues. I still prefer braid and a leader.

 I also learned that thumb pressure more on top of the reel instead of at the back of the reel gives you more surface area to feel what's going on with the spool. This will allow you to lighten your pressure for longer casts, but still have the feel required to know when the spool is hitting the fine line between perfect long cast and horrendous backlash.  Give that a shot and see if it works for you. 

[Team9nine]

Well, it sounds like you've trashed that spool of line, so while you won't want to use it for fishing, take advantage and use it for practice  Hard to say exactly what you should do because we don't know your setup and what you're trying to throw, as well as your experience level. That said, start by tightening your control knobs, turning up your magnetic brakes, and using all your centrifugal brakes (pushed all the way out) - depending on exactly what reel you have. That will make it difficult to cast, but also difficult to backlash. From there, just start slowly loosening and playing with the various settings while you see what works best for you. I doubt it's the line - for example, I use everything from 8# to 25# fluorocarbon on the majority of my baitcasters for a wide variety of presentations.  You simply need to keep practicing with it until you get more comfortable with everything.

-T9

[MassYak85]

4 hours ago, WRB said:

 

You also need to learn how to remove a backlash without pulling out the line and damaging it. When you get a backlash the first thing you do is put your thumb tightly down onto the spool and reel the line back onto the reel. Now pull the line off the reel dropping it into the water so it stays untangled. When you get past the last loops, then put some tension on the line between your fingers and respool the line back onto the reel.

Tom

This, this THIS ^

You will be amazed how well it works on most backlashes. 

[geo g]

I use Floro most of the time with plastics.  First of all not all floros are the same.  Some have a lot more problems then others.  I use Berkely 100% professional grade.  I love this stuff for sensitivity, strength, and durability.  I'm sure there are others that are good, but I like this stuff.   It is expensive but worth it.   Next don;t over fill your spool.  You will have a lot less problems if you leave a 1/16 inch of empty spool at the top.  Then spray your line often to help eliminate problems.  I always look after making a long cast to make sure there is no slack on the spool.  Always pull out any slack before winding in line.  If you ever get a backlash, be very gentle fixing the backlash.  You cant be rough with this line or you will get creases weakening  the line.  The sensitivity is exceptional, and except for flipping and top water, floro is my line of choice.  

[jr231]

For sensitivity, and strength , lack of stretch. Use braid!!!!!! The only things that FC has on braid are that it sinks. And maybe less visibility depending on conditions IMO. But when you catch bass on spinner baits with heavy metal wires it makes me think less about how much the line visibility comes into play. 

[Oufb90]

I use the Berkely FL and have never used conditioner. I always throw it out gently a couple times and get it wet and then regular fishing. Love it. I don't care for braid but I know I'm odd. 

[roadwarrior]

Pass the quacamole please

 http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/perfect_guacamole/

OP asked about fluorocarbon and the answer is braid?

 

 

[jr231]

I think it could use half a cup of sweet corn. 

[MickD]

The fastest, cheapest, way to solve the FC problem is to switch to mono or braid.  You can search for better FC's, and each try will cost time and $$; many will recommend premium FC's, more money and time.

As stated , the ONLY true and significant advantage of FC is that it sinks faster than mono or braid.  If that's what you want, OK, but I find a little lead makes a lure sink pretty well without the other problems of FC.  I only use it for leaders, and I use the hard FC designed for leaders because it is much less fragile than FC designed to be a line.

I think the best casting (baitcasters) line of all is mono, but I do like the lack of stretch of braid so use a lot of braid with FC leaders.  For spinning I am almost exclusively with 15 # braid with an FC leader.  (mostly open water or only slightly weedy fishing)

As a line I think FC is highly overrated and not worth the cost and problems.

[Glenn]

3 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

Pass the quacamole please

 http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/perfect_guacamole/

OP asked about fluorocarbon and the answer is braid?

 

 

Same as the post above.

17 hours ago, The_Bass_Master99 said:

So I've started using fluorocarbon line on one of my baitcasters for crankbaits, but I keep getting backlashes are almost impossible to get out. Should I set my brakes a certain way.PLEASE HELP.

Here's how to properly set up your baitcaster to reduce backlashes:

 

[Team9nine]

There is no fluorocarbon "problem" -  there is only inability or inexperience as an angler.

-T9

[kstephes033]

Floro is great for basically any technique other than topwater as it sinks. Stick with it and learn how to use it. Big things that would be good to know are what reel you are using, also what lb test floro are you currently using. For baitcasters i rarely use under 12lb as the diameter gets too small (unless its a BFS setup), especially since 12 is generally equivalent to 10lb mono meaning you get more strength but for cranks/jerkbaits you still get the same depth if not more due to the sinking properties of floro. As mentioned using line conditioner does help, pull some line out, put a spray every 10 handle turns or so, and try to do it overnight so it can "soak". The biggest thing is going to be a trained thumb and how you have the settings on the reel though. Generally speaking start at the highest setting for brake system, and on the spool tension try to have it set to where there is no play with in the spool side to side, this puts enough tension on it to keep it from overrunning itself, yet allows you to still get a good amount of distance. Keeping the spool tension there you can then gradually turn the brake system down as you get more comfortable casting it.

[Hot Rod Johnson]

A lot of great information in this thread. Some questions that I would be interested in would be what brand of "Fluorocarbon Line" and Pound Test are you using, what Rod, Reel and Lures are you using?

[DogBone_384]

On 10/10/2016 at 5:11 PM, Yeajray231 said:

Use braid. With a fluorocarbon leader . 

X2

[MickD]

9 hours ago, Team9nine said:

There is no fluorocarbon "problem" -  there is only inability or inexperience as an angler.

-T9

What is the solution for someone without your ability and experience?  Keep being frustrated by  FC, going through lots of money and time and still getting backlashes?  Or moving to a more forgiving line until the ability and experience is gained?  Just stating that there is no FC problem solves nothing.

[Logan S]

13 minutes ago, MickD said:

What is the solution for someone without your ability and experience?  Keep being frustrated by  FC, going through lots of money and time and still getting backlashes?  Or moving to a more forgiving line until the ability and experience is gained?  Just stating that there is no FC problem solves nothing.

Practice.  Just like you'd expect when learning how to use a baitcaster or any other skill.  FC is different than mono and/or braid, so using mono/braid isn't really going to help you with learning FC (assuming you already have the basic casting skills down).  

You'd be surprised how something simple like short pitches in your living room, garage, or back yard will help.  I think too many guys spool up with FC for the first time and try to 'practice' on a fishing trip...Which inevitably leads to headaches, frustration, and ruined line.  

[MickD]

Fishing with a more forgiving line will provide lots of practice.  I've been fishing with baitcasters for 60 years, have had plenty of practice, and still find mono a much more forgiving line than FC.  

[Logan S]

2 hours ago, MickD said:

Fishing with a more forgiving line will provide lots of practice.  I've been fishing with baitcasters for 60 years, have had plenty of practice, and still find mono a much more forgiving line than FC.  

You're missing the point.  You need to practice with FC if you want to use it effectively.  The question wasn't about which line is easier to use, it was about how to use/learn FC.

Not trying to argue with you here at all, either use FC or don't - But don't expect to learn how to use it without actually spooling it up and putting some time in to learn it's characteristics.  

[Team9nine]

Logan S summed it up nicely. If you choose not to use fluorocarbon and instead use braid or mono for whatever reason, that's your choice. Sure mono is more forgiving, but that doesn't mean there is a "problem" with fluorocarbon because many of us use it for a range of techniques, in a range of sizes, and never have issues with it. All lines have their unique properties, their positives and negatives. As an example, look at past posters who have complained about braid wedging in their spools and causing casting issues or lure breakoffs. It would be easy for me to say get rid of that braid and just use straight fluoro or mono and you'll solve your braid "problem"  Others might tell you to instead buy a more expensive 8-strand braid that won't dig in as bad. We can play this game with any line type...

-T9

[MickD]

I don't disagree with your major points, Logan.  But the poster sounds new to the game and may not be ready for FC.  I was only pointing out that the quickest and cheapest way out of his frustration might be to, at least for a while, give up the FC. For me personally, I've practiced and practiced with many brands of FC and simply don't find that there is an advantage in it that justifies the problems.  

[bigfruits]

stick with it and learn to use it. its another tool. a must for slack line presentations.