What to look out for in a used boat

[TLBassin]

I think I am on the verge of buying a used stratos from a dealerships that has been check over (compression, things of that nature) and cleaned.  Boat is in nice real nice condition and I am going to take it on a test run in the next few days.  Those with past experience, is there anything that I should look/listen for when i take it out and test while Im on the water?  Thanks!

Trevor

[cart7t]

You didn't state the year of the boat. Anything pre-2000 I'd check the integrity of the transom and floor.

First, walk around the inside of the boat feeling for any soft spots.  A soft spot could be nothing more than a floor replacement (not necessarily an easy job) to stringer damage (serious damage and a major job that's $$). After that the next place to look is the transom.  2 ways to check, have a person watch the transom while you get onto the cavitation plate of the engine and push up and down on it with all your weight.  The watcher should see NO flexing of the transom.  You can also tap around on the transom with your knuckle. It should sound "solid", not hollow.  Any flexing or hollow sound is an indication of transom rot or a wet transom due to water penetration. A transom replacement or repair is possible for the do-it-yourselfer but it's another major job and you'll need to also find out where the water has been getting into the transom to begin with.

Also, check the transom and any inside and outside corners for cracking. Not gelcoat spider cracks, those happen in just about any boat with time, I'm talking about cracking of the fiberglass. That's a sure indication of a structural problem or the boat was involved in an incident.  Also check under the boat along the bottom of the hull for cracking or any serious deep gouges, especially along the keel area.  Gouges into the fiberglass will cause water to penetrate the glass and can cause problems.

Check the trailer for rust and integrity of weld joints. Check the bunks and bunk carpeting.  

Definitely take the boat out on the water and go through all the fuctions of the motor. If the owner/dealer won't do it I'd shy away from the boat. It's almost expected for a used boat, especially if it's over 7-8 years old to have some problems, you just don't want to inherit someones serious problems which is causing them to sell the boat in the first place.

[Yankee_Bassman]

What kind of warranty are they offering? Even a short warranty affords you the chance to drive straight from the selling dealer to a reputable boat tech in the area, and get the boat surveyed. I assume you didn't witness the compression test, so you have only the dealer's word on it.....If the tech finds troubles, get a work proposal written up, take it back to the dealer, and let the games begin.....even better is if you can hire a tech to go with you on a test drive with the dealer.....around here, marine surveyors are easy to come by. A few hundred dollars invested in their time to be sure the boat is sound can save thousands.  

[TLBassin]

Thanks for the heads up.  The boat is on consignment, so as far as I know there is no warranty with it, but it wont hurt to ask.  As mentioned, yes I am gong off of their word that the compression is good.  Said it was 105 to be exact, and it has been checked cold and after running for about 15 minutes.  Also the boat is a 95 model to be exact.  Dealership like I mentioned went through the boat checking and replaced the steering because it was tough and need replacing.  Also the engine has been tuned up as well, new plugs. fuses, etc.  Any other comments would help before I test it out tommarow.

[Madhouse27]

One of my major concerns would be to make sure that the boat is not waterlogged. I am talking about the blown foam that is used to fill the hull under the floor. I think you are probably safe with a 1995 boat, but the foam used in some earlier applications actually would absord water and add significant weight. This was obviously a problem for performance as well as towing. There was a great earlier thread about this subject if you feel like searching. I am by no means an expert, but my old McKee Craft boat has this problem and it is a pain.

[camofish]

I would also take a good look at the outboard's lower unit, to make sure that there isn't any oil leeks, ask as to then the air pump was replaced and to the engines maintaince and upkeep.

I looked at a few different boats that had lower unit problems with oil leeks.

I even ended up getting an old lemon the 1st time  :'( every one has to learn some way.

And for me it was the hard way. but inturn the boat I got now also is an older one but was very well kept up, that has every thing to do with it.  

Good luck  8-) soon to be on the water.  

[Yankee_Bassman]

  Said it was 105 to be exact, and it has been checked cold and after running for about 15 minutes.

TL: There is a compression measurement for each cylinder....One will usually be lower than the others, but there shouldn't be more than a 15% difference from the lowest to the highest figure; Saying "the compression is 105" on a multi-cylinder motor is BS......that should be the first warning bell......checking cold vs. warmed up has no particular value, either....it is usually tested "dry", and if a problem is found, oil is squirted into the cylinder that's low, to help diagnose the reason for the low compression (commonly called "wet testing").....that's the second warning bell.....you didn't say the  make and horsepower of the motor, but off the top of my head, compression of 105 in any cylinder sounds very low for what I assume is at least a 115 HP if it's on a Stratos....you can find out the specs on compression for that motor easily...ask the dealer to show you a shop manual for the motor; that will list the optimal compression....it will be a little lower no doubt, given 10 years of wear and tear, but again, it shouldn't be much lower, and the cylinders should be very close, with one having a 10-15% drop.

Buying a boat on consignment is no different than buying it straight from the owner, except the dealer will pocket around 30% of the sale, as an educated guess...you won't gain any extra protection....I'd look around for used boat from a dealer who will give at least a limited warranty, unless he's giving the boat away....also check the NADA website for an idea of book value....around my area, NADA prices tend to be below market, but you at least get an idea of the ballpark you should be in....

Good luck.

[TLBassin]

I am going to call and get specs on the compression and check with another evinrude dealer about numbers for back up.  Also would the boat still idol well and run at high speeds well if compression was low?  I test drove the boat today and drove fine, it has a 130 on it and speed peaked at around 50-53.  Also no oil leaks were detected anywhere on the motor.  

[Madhouse27]

I'd do a little google searching on a 1995 130hp Evinrude. You might be able to find any common problems with that model (if there are any) and maybe even some comments from owners who have that same engine. You sound like you are doing your homework. I think Yankee said it best when he talked about buying a boat on consignment. You are basically buying it from the previous owner with a dealer playing middle man and making some money as well on the deal. The dealer probably wants to sell this boat so he can sell the previous ower a new one. I'd push him for some kind of warranty even if it's just thirty days. If they won't, you could find out the previous owner's name and negotiate directly with him and remove the dealer all together. He might be more willing to come down in price if you flashed some cash in front of him.

[TLBassin]

The dealer that I am dealing with is smart, I have tried to get the owners number to contact him about history and replacement of parts on the boat, but they said it is a new privacy act that they arent allowed to give out info. about the owner.  Although they said that would contact him with any ?'s I had.  I have been able to bargain with them and get the price dropped some, to one thats not that unreasonable.  Like mentioned its a 95 18' stratos, with the 130, and I got it too 5500.  Little higher than some others, but the deal is 20 minutes away compared the the others which are several hours and i would make the difference in GAS and time.  Since this is my first bass boat and it is used, and I am a college student with limited income, I am wanting to make sure all the ducks are gonna fall in a row.  The good thing about the dealer having it is that they are inspecting it and the owner now is paying to have all things fixed that need to be, so I am trying to make sure everything is right before it becomes my burdan.

[Ben]

My first concern would be an 18' Stratos with a 130 hp V-4 motor.  Stratos does not make a light boat, a 2.0L V-4 is not going to have a whole lot of torque to get it up and going with two people, full well, plenty of gas and your gear.   For that size boat, I would try to find one with a V-6 150.  It will be much more enjoyable to drive.  When it comes to hole shot and getting a boat up and going with a load, there is just no substitute for cu in's. and the V-6 has a whole bunch more of them things, even if it is only 20 more hp, those extra cu in's make a whole bunch of difference.   On the 17' - 18' boats, I would stick to the max rated HP because they are just too much boat for anything smaller than a 150.  My Stratos, 285 Pro (18.5') dry hull weight is 1440 pounds, it's only rated for a 175 and was a lead sled with a 150 on it.

That's still a lot of money for that boat with a V-4 because that V-4 motor has a very low value if I was sold just as a used motor, which means you are gonna be paying over $4000 for the boat and trailer.  

When you test a boat, you needed three people in it, livewell full, make sure all the batteries were in it.  THe reason I say three people, that would add the weight, a tank of gas and gear would add.  These things make a hellava difference in the way a boat performs versus one almost empty on gas, dry livewells and no gear, especially if you were in it by yourself.

[Yankee_Bassman]

Here's the deal regarding the boat running OK with low compression.....say the compression was low, but just above the lowest limit where poor performance would be easily noticeable....you could still accelerate, and still run at high speeds, but it might last a week, a year, or....the better news is, if it was way below necessary compression in even one cylinder, that cylinder would most likely be "dropping", and you'd notice it on acceleration and at top end......she'd sputter or hesitate on acceleration, for example....way below minimum necessary spec on two or more, and it would be most likely be hard-starting, and you'd have real ragged acceleration and top end. I'd still be concerned about being told the compression "is 105"....that answer doesn't make sense.

If you're getting a good deal on the boat, and the boat itself is sound, and the motor does quit, you might be able to repair or repower and still be around the resale value....just keep in mind an old boat isn't like an old car....even if you can do the work yourself, it's almost impossible to completely do over a boat, motor, and accessories and stay below or even at the actual value of the boat, unless you're getting it for next to nothing, and even then, maybe not.....the woods are full of boats somebody got fro free, then turned into planters when they found out how much coin was going to have to go into their bargain to make it seaworthy.....on the other hand, a little patience, and you might find a good deal on a boat with no problems and a warranty of some kind, and not have to worry about the extra expense and lost time due to repairs. Up here, a rebuild job is going to cost you the better part if not all of the season.

If your in love, and this is the only one for you, consider this.....Madhouse is right on about the dealer probably wanting to sell the owner a new boat, and the sale may be conditional on selling the old for a certain minimum price....the dealer may be willing to gamble on no problems showing up for say 7 days, and may give you that much warranty. Let him think you're dumb to settle for a 7 day warranty, who cares? If he's dumb enough to give it to you, head right down the road and get it gone over completely. Let us know how you make out....I saw your post in the other thread, and I know you're rightfully excited and proud, and I hope it all works out OK for you.

[TLBassin]

I tested it today, it had 3/4 tank in it and i was with the man from the dealership, decent sized man, 250ish.  Im around 180 and the back livewell had some water in it, but not full.  Goin down the lake the boat maxed at 50-53, with fairly decent get up and go.  Ive rode in a friends 18' ranger with a Merc. 150 and it didnt seem to much different.  Although not fully loaded, I didnt think that the 50 range for a 130 was that bad?? or would be I mistaken?  Thanks for all the help and input guys!!!!

Trevor