First boat

[Anon2578455]

59 minutes ago, fishnkamp said:

Do you have a Battery Warehouse near you?

 

We have batteries plus in Illinois or interstate

[fishnkamp]

Interstate makes a good deep cycle. You should be looking for a deep cycle not necessarily a'deep cycle starting battery"  The deep cycle and dual purpose will give you between 100 or 210 reserve capacity and may be between 600 and 1000 marine cranking amps. Something like these As the reserve increases so does its time of use per day. I run a big boat and a 24 volt system so I use very expensive  group 31 AGM batteries but a simple group 24 or 27 should meet your needs. You may even find something useful at Walmart but  I could not find it listed on the internet.  

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/m/category/marine/deepcycle

DEEP CYCLE/STARTING A battery used to start a boat and provide power for lights and accessories whether your engine is running or not.
BCI Group	Part Number	CCA	MCA1	RC	Hours of Ampere Load2		Dimensions (inches)			Warranty
					5 amps	15 amps	L	W	H	Free Months
24M	HD24-DP	405	505	100	11.6	3.1	11	6 7⁄8	9 1⁄2	12
24M	SRM-24	550	690	140	15.5	4.2	11	6 7⁄8	9 1⁄2	12
27M	SRM-27	600	750	160	17.2	4.8	12 3⁄4	6 3⁄4	9 1⁄2	12
29M	SRM-29	675	845	210	19.5	6.0	13	6 3⁄4	10	12
4DM	SRM-4D	1314	1645	390	44.3	12	21	8 1⁄4	10 3⁄8	6

¹Calculated performance

²Actual average test performance

Summer Tips

 

[Anon2578455]

Walmart sells Everlast Maxx, costs 99. I think I will go to Costco tomorrow as they sell interstate.  I will pick up a 27.

 

2 more questions. Which trickle charger to buy/do I leave the battery on it 24/7? And do I need a black marine case for battery

[BrianSnat]

6 hours ago, petes67bird said:

Walmart sells Everlast Maxx, costs 99. I think I will go to Costco tomorrow as they sell interstate.  I will pick up a 27.

 

2 more questions. Which trickle charger to buy/do I leave the battery on it 24/7? And do I need a black marine case for battery

I use this one, it works quite well and isn't expensive
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-1200A-CA-SpeedCharge-Maintainer/dp/B000BQSIWK

[fishnkamp]

Here is the one I use.  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-15-Amp-Marine-Battery-Charger/13005745. It is the same brand as briansnat  uses but it is designed to charge 3 types of batteries, lead acid, agm or gel cells.  Lead acid is a normal battery like a car battery.  The AGM and Gel cells are more expensive batteries and in fact I use three huge AGMs. Here is what I do. What makes these battery chargers different id the microprocessor has 3 different charging programs built in. So I hook up the charger and make sure to let it work till the charger says it is charged 100 percent.  It will speed up and slow down the charging rate automatically. Now once the charger is done remove it. For the best battery life recharge it immediately after use.  That is it.

As for the case I recommend a battery tray or case. If the boat has a raised bottom, I usually drill and mount it using the small screws and hold downs they come with. If it does not have a raised floor ( and I do not think yours does) then I cut a piece of plywood to fit across the floor in the back so it will not slide around (mostly for safety going down the highway) Both the trays and most battery boxes come with a strap, two hold down brackets a a few screws. If I go the wood option I usually get a piece of outdoor plywood and give it a couple of coats of paint on both sides to seal it. You could carpet it to make it look nice but totally unnecessary

Man you had a busy day yesterday!  When does dad get to see it?.

[Anon2578455]

11 minutes ago, fishnkamp said:

Here is the one I use.  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-15-Amp-Marine-Battery-Charger/13005745. It is the same brand as briansnat  uses but it is designed to charge 3 types of batteries, lead acid, agm or gel cells.  Lead acid is a normal battery like a car battery.  The AGM and Gel cells are more expensive batteries and in fact I use three huge AGMs. Here is what I do. What makes these battery chargers different id the microprocessor has 3 different charging programs built in. So I hook up the charger and make sure to let it work till the charger says it is charged 100 percent.  It will speed up and slow down the charging rate automatically. Now once the charger is done remove it. For the best battery life recharge it immediately after use.  That is it.

As for the case I recommend a battery tray or case. If the boat has a raised bottom, I usually drill and mount it using the small screws and hold downs they come with. If it does not have a raised floor ( and I do not think yours does) then I cut a piece of plywood to fit across the floor in the back so it will not slide around (mostly for safety going down the highway) Both the trays and most battery boxes come with a strap, two hold down brackets a a few screws. If I go the wood option I usually get a piece of outdoor plywood and give it a couple of coats of paint on both sides to seal it. You could carpet it to make it look nice but totally unnecessary

Man you had a busy day yesterday!  When does dad get to see it?.

Thanks! I have been standing in line at the dmv for almost 2 hours now lol.  I want to get everything set before giving it to my dad. Should I go with battery tender or Schumacher 

[thomas15]

Pete

To answer you question, I decided on the wally world Everstart 29DC Some might argue that it's not the best but several factors played into this. First let me say that if I used a TM as my main source of powder then I would have bought either an Interstate or Deka.

The Everstart has a 2 year replacement warranty, this battery is 860MCA and 100 Amp Hours, slightly more than the Interstate (on paper). I have a relative that works at WM (employee discount) so I got is for quite a bit less $$. I have a starting battery that I could use in a pinch in an emergency. Finally it's replacing an Everstart 27DC that has been of good service. I decided to buy this battery, which I did last night. Hooked it up to a charger and let it charge overnight. This morning it measures 13.8 volts, the only thing I have to do is run a load test which I'm doing later today. If all is well I will keep the battery, if not I will return it.

I understand that the Everstart is not the same quality of Interstate or Deka. I have noticed, and this is not a criticism of anyone, that opinions vary regarding batteries and for that matter trolling motors. My boat is 16'4", a 50 HP outboard, I carry 12 gallons of gasoline, two batteries and a boatload of fishing tackle.

My TM is a Minn Kota All-Terrain which has 40 pounds thrust, 12 volts. The All-terrain is the same as the Edge except it is uglier. It has 5 speed settings, I use the 2nd or 3rd and that pulls my boat fast enough. I have never used the highest setting 5. I figure replacing a 27DC with a 29DC will give me an added operating range but I have never (except yesterday of course) run my old battery down past 60% on a fishing trip. I have a fishing buddy that sneers at my baby 40 pounds of thrust and 12 volt system but it works fine and upgrading to 24 volts and more thrust doesn't make any economic sense to me right now. I did replace the bottom cover of the TM head last spring. A friends father is an Minn-Kota repairmen and he basically gave me the part. I had to completely disassemble the head so I adjusted it and lubed it and it really is a smooth steering TM now. I would rather put the hundreds of dollars it would cost to upgrade my TM into a side scan sonar. Another discussion for another day, but I have two sonars, both are lowrance with hybred downscan and I really haven't learned how to use everything they have to offer either.

For a battery charger I use a 10 amp trickle charger that was my Dads. When we were kids, money was very tight at times and my Dad bought it at a time when we had no money. I remember even my Mom bragging about this charger having a 50 AMP boost. This charger is at least 45 years old. About 2 weeks ago I took it apart and fixed the lead cord that goes from the transformer output to the battery. This is basically zip cord and the insulation was starting to dry rot from age. So I cannot recommend a battery charger but it's good to see that another poster has.

I'm thinking about getting a 2 bank battery charger/conditioner for the boat. It's a real pain for me to hook up the charger because I keep my boat covered with a canvas cover. But for now it works. But I'm just rambling here and not being of any help to you.

Pete, keep us updated, let me say that if I had the opportunity to buy what you did I would have purchased it as we have a bunch of HP restricted and/or electric only lakes and I think your boat would be great for them. My Dad has been gone for 15 years and I would give just about anything to go on a fishing trip with him now. We had so many good times on the water when I was a kid. Good luck with your boat!

[thomas15]

^^^My charger has a 15 AMP boost not 50 Amps. I cannot edit this post for some reason but want to be accurate as possible.

[fishnkamp]

The Shumacher at Walley World will work fine for you. When I turned the Polar Kraft (the green boat ) into an all electric boat  I had three trolling motors and 5 deep cycle batteries. I recharged them all using 3 of the Wal Mart Schumacher chargers. The exact model I posted.

Thomas15 if you interested in a good reliable 2 bank on board charger I have been using this one from Bass Pro for the last 6 years and it has been solid. It supplies 10 amps per battery independently.

  http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-Intelligent-Technology-Series-Onboard-Marine-Battery-Charger-XPS-iT-10/10/product/10224686/

As it is you still would need to fish out the electrical plug to hook it up. As an alternative you may be able to install one of these in the back of the boat say near the splash well so you would have easy access to it.

http://www.basspro.com/Onboard-Charger-Inlet/product/5205/

[Anon2578455]

2 hours ago, thomas15 said:

To answer you question, I decided on the wally world Everstart 29DC Some might argue that it's not the best but several factors played into this. First let me say that if I used a TM as my main source of powder then I would have bought either an Interstate or Deka.

The Everstart has a 2 year replacement warranty, this battery is 860MCA and 100 Amp Hours, slightly more than the Interstate (on paper). I have a relative that works at WM (employee discount) so I got is for quite a bit less $$. I have a starting battery that I could use in a pinch in an emergency. Finally it's replacing an Everstart 27DC that has been of good service. I decided to buy this battery, which I did last night. Hooked it up to a charger and let it charge overnight. This morning it measures 13.8 volts, the only thing I have to do is run a load test which I'm doing later today. If all is well I will keep the battery, if not I will return it.

I understand that the Everstart is not the same quality of Interstate or Deka. I have noticed, and this is not a criticism of anyone, that opinions vary regarding batteries and for that matter trolling motors. My boat is 16'4", a 50 HP outboard, I carry 12 gallons of gasoline, two batteries and a boatload of fishing tackle.

My TM is a Minn Kota All-Terrain which has 40 pounds thrust, 12 volts. The All-terrain is the same as the Edge except it is uglier. It has 5 speed settings, I use the 2nd or 3rd and that pulls my boat fast enough. I have never used the highest setting 5. I figure replacing a 27DC with a 29DC will give me an added operating range but I have never (except yesterday of course) run my old battery down past 60% on a fishing trip. I have a fishing buddy that sneers at my baby 40 pounds of thrust and 12 volt system but it works fine and upgrading to 24 volts and more thrust doesn't make any economic sense to me right now. I did replace the bottom cover of the TM head last spring. A friends father is an Minn-Kota repairmen and he basically gave me the part. I had to completely disassemble the head so I adjusted it and lubed it and it really is a smooth steering TM now. I would rather put the hundreds of dollars it would cost to upgrade my TM into a side scan sonar. Another discussion for another day, but I have two sonars, both are lowrance with hybred downscan and I really haven't learned how to use everything they have to offer either.

For a battery charger I use a 10 amp trickle charger that was my Dads. When we were kids, money was very tight at times and my Dad bought it at a time when we had no money. I remember even my Mom bragging about this charger having a 50 AMP boost. This charger is at least 45 years old. About 2 weeks ago I took it apart and fixed the lead cord that goes from the transformer output to the battery. This is basically zip cord and the insulation was starting to dry rot from age. So I cannot recommend a battery charger but it's good to see that another poster has.

I'm thinking about getting a 2 bank battery charger/conditioner for the boat. It's a real pain for me to hook up the charger because I keep my boat covered with a canvas cover. But for now it works. But I'm just rambling here and not being of any help to you.

Pete, keep us updated, let me say that if I had the opportunity to buy what you did I would have purchased it as we have a bunch of HP restricted and/or electric only lakes and I think your boat would be great for them. My Dad has been gone for 15 years and I would give just about anything to go on a fishing trip with him now. We had so many good times on the water when I was a kid. Good luck with your boat!

Thnaks Thomas,  appreciate the long writeup.  Hearing about your dad makes me even happier I am doing this.  It's funny,  in my 20's I barely called my parents.  Now in my mid 30's I basically talk to them daily.  I realize how short life is and how much they mean to me,  I just want to spend as much time with them as I can.  Thanks again for the help.  Eventually when I get it in the water,  I will post a picture of my dad's first catch,  even if it's a bluegill lol. 

Quick question.  I am going to Costco for groceries.  Should I buy a 27 diehard or this battery has a 40 off 100 coupon, and then I am hit with a 20 dollar core charge,  so 99 dollars for this.  https://m.advanceautoparts.com/h5/r/shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-marine-rv-12-volt-deep-cycle-battery-group-size-29hm-675-cca-29hm/10312646-P?searchTerm=battery+marine+%26+deep+cycle

[thomas15]

I would go with the die hard personally. I considered that one (die hard) as well. The advanced auto and auto zone in my area cost more for what you get than the walmart battery.

which ever battery you get, save the receipt

[thomas15]

One other thing.. I mentioned about going out first time for a "shake-out cruise" by yourself without a whole lot of things to think about. Pick a time when there is little boat and ramp traffic. You also want to make sure there are no leaks in the hull. I say this not to scare you, leaks are a part of boating. If there isn't any foam under the floor then you could fill the hull with water from a hose and then observe.

[Anon2578455]

Just got back home.  Picked up a Interstate 27dc battery.  I thought they carried Die Hard but they didn't.  Hopefully Interstate is just as good as die hard.  Paid 79 plus 15 core charge.  12 month warranty. Now I need the battery case and life jackets. 

[fishnkamp]

An Interstate is one of the best deep cycles made. 

[Anon2578455]

OK couple questions.  I bought a new brass drain plus to replace the plastic one,  it is 1/2 inch.  I started looking around the boat and wanted to do a couple things.  The plastic oar holders are broken,  I want to remove them but what do I do with the holes? Also above the middle seat on both sides of the boat are 4 holes on a rectangle pattern spaced about 3-4" apart horizontally and a boy 2" vertically.  Any idea what these could of been? Last question,  there is an old depth finder screwed into the rear of the boat,  I want to remove it, what should I do to the holes.  Thanks 

[slonezp]

You can use JB Weld to fill all the holes in the aluminum.

[fishnkamp]

The JB Weld will work. So will this 3M 5200 sealant. It comes in different size tubes, can be spread with a popsicle stick or putty knife and comes in white or black. It is paintable also

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-fast-cure-white-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-1oz--9384629?recordNum=4

It is available from lots of places I used West Marine as an example, most good boat supply places as well as Bass Pro should have it. There is another brand called Life Caulk that.makes a similar product and I have used both over the years. I prefer 5200 but either one works.

 

[Anon2578455]

25 minutes ago, fishnkamp said:

The JB Weld will work. So will this 3M 5200 sealant. It comes in different size tubes, can be spread with a popsicle stick or putty knife and comes in white or black. It is paintable also

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-fast-cure-white-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-1oz--9384629?recordNum=4

It is available from lots of places I used West Marine as an example, most good boat supply places as well as Bass Pro should have it. There is another brand called Life Caulk that.makes a similar product and I have used both over the years. I prefer 5200 but either one works.

 

Thanks.  Should I buy a rivet gun and use rivets along with 52? I was watching some videos of repairs done that way.  The old depth finder has 7 separate holes and all beneath the water line. 

[thomas15]

I purchased 3M 5200 t my local Lowes in the paint dept. Wear exam gloves and use some acetone to clean up after using that stuff it gets on everything and is very stubborn to clean up.

My boat had a transducer mounted on a small pc of aluminum on the transom by the PO. I wanted to change the arrangement so I bought some of that synthetic wood and attached it to the transom, the brackets for the transducer and the speedometer attached to the synthetic wood without going through the skin of the transom. I filled the old holes with JB Weld and used the 5200 to "glue" the synthetic wood to the transom, to seal the screws holding the wood to the transom and I ran a bead of 5200 around the wood. I'm not sure exactly how I would ever remove that wood if I wanted to, it is total overkill.

9 minutes ago, petes67bird said:

Thanks.  Should I buy a rivet gun and use rivets along with 52? I was watching some videos of repairs done that way.  The old depth finder has 7 separate holes and all beneath the water line. 

If it were me I would force a bunch of JB weld into the holes. You could use sheet metal screws, not sure what good a rivet would do unless it's a blind rivet it will not be water tight and the transom should be fairly thick.

[fishnkamp]

I would not use rivets personally, to me it just opens up a chance for trouble later.  I would use the 5200. Since we are talking about holes the size of small screws I would use spread the 5200 like body putty in a circle about the size of a quarter or a bit smaller. Once it dries totally (read the directions on the package) I would lightly sand it and find some spray can of paint that will blend inclose. Touch up the area and forget about it. Here is a picture of my friend Eds boat. He has been sanding around every rivet, removing some silicone "repairs" the previous owner did and then hit each one with 5200. It kinda looks like someone riddled it with bullet holes. He has more patience than anyone I know, but he is going to have a beautiful boat when it is done.

 

Since that he has covered the entire bottom with several coats of bed liner paint in black. I helped him work on it for a while one day. It takes some time but he has made amazing progress. In fact tomorrow it will be dumped in the lake for the first time.

[Anon2578455]

OK.  So if I use 52 and seal the holes, should I do the wood trick too? I plan on mounting a 20+ year old hummingbird fish finder that is new in the box there. Not sure the best route to go.  I have small holes near the middle seat above the water line,  should I do 52 or jb weld.  I will probably paint the top of the boat over the winter in the garage.  I think I am going to build some decking for my dad as his knees are shot. Thanks guys,  I am a complete beginner and I like to do things correctly the first time as I do not have the money to do it twice. 

 

Wow wish I had the patience for that.  I will probably paint the top of the boat over the winter. Is the 52 really that strong to hold up on its own with nothing else under the water line? 

[fishnkamp]

Oh yes it is super strong. I would use it to eliminate all of the unwanted holes and then make her pretty during the winter. As for mounting the transducer, you can do it either way. When I mount one I do not use anything besides drill and mount the transducer right to the hole.  Presently my 6 year old boat has had two mounted on it.The boat is black and I sealed them up using the black 5200. I just made a patch about the size of a dime and then drilled and mounted the other transducer. They even sell some blocks just for mounting electronics , they are made of some kind of abs or something. The nice thing about using one is they allow you to adjust and redrill for a mount without adding new hole to the boat. Most time you drill and mount the block with screws, but the 5200 will work fine since you are not going 70 mph with this boat. Make sure if you drill and install any hardware use some marine silicone on the screws or bolts and feed some silicone into the holes as well.

[Anon2578455]

Thanks,  I am sneaking to my dad's this week,  gonna steal his trolling motor and his fish finder.  Gonna get it all set up and ready to go.  I need to wait on the secretary of state for an affidavit cause the trailer tag and trailer title is off 1 number.  

Should I buy the minn kota battery box or just the plain plastic one.  

[fishnkamp]

Well I have never used one. However it might work out well for you . The advantage would be this. It is not just a fancy batter holding box. It includes a high amperage resetable circuit breaker which is just a good insurance policy so to speak.  If you take dad's "new old trolling motor" out the box you can cut off the alligator clips and solder or crimp some ring end terminals which would make solid connections that are easy to remove without  opening up a box. It would also allow you to hook up your battery charger easily . Now for your fish finder you could easily attach a cigarette lighter plug on the end of the power cord  and just plug it in. Now the cost is about $53 at WalMart online, not sure if a store sells it.  If you choose not to go that way I usually get the battery connectors that have wing nuts on them for like $4.00 each. That is if my battery only has posts and no wing nut. I like to add a circuit breaker on mine as well.

[Anon2578455]

28 minutes ago, fishnkamp said:

Well I have never used one. However it might work out well for you . The advantage would be this. It is not just a fancy batter holding box. It includes a high amperage resetable circuit breaker which is just a good insurance policy so to speak.  If you take dad's "new old trolling motor" out the box you can cut off the alligator clips and solder or crimp some ring end terminals which would make solid connections that are easy to remove without  opening up a box. It would also allow you to hook up your battery charger easily . Now for your fish finder you could easily attach a cigarette lighter plug on the end of the power cord  and just plug it in. Now the cost is about $53 at WalMart online, not sure if a store sells it.  If you choose not to go that way I usually get the battery connectors that have wing nuts on them for like $4.00 each. That is if my battery only has posts and no wing nut. I like to add a circuit breaker on mine as well.

Thanks,  so regardless I should cut off the alligator clips?  I will buy the minn kota box to make it easy.  

What your friend did has me intrigued.  I think I might take this boat down on the winter,  spread 52 over every seam and rivet,  sand it smooth and use the rustoleum roller brush method to paint the entire exterior. I have no idea how to use an air sprayer so the roll on looks to be a good bet.   It's a 1960,  so it could use a touch up both in and out,  especially the sealer.  I noticed there is no foam box in the rear,  only the front.