cjam93 Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 Hey guys so I am needing to get some new line for cranking. Typically I use 10lb Seaguar Invisx, but I was thinking about trying Yozuri Hybrid out. I know 10lb hybrid is a lot larger than 10lb Seaguar. Would that hinder the depth of the crank that much? I was thinking about going down to 8lb hybrid since it supposedly has a higher breaking strength than what it says it does. Would that work to allow my cranks to get to the same depth they were getting with the fluorocarbon without being easy to break line? Quote
fullcoupe Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 I've been using YZ Hybrid for little bit now (replaced several of my FC Sniper and Reaction FC spools). I've thrown 3-5' SBs all the way to 18' divers and they all run where they are supposed to. It also puts jerkbaits where they need to be. If it hinders the depth at all, I don't notice it. On lighter baits (< 1/2 oz) I'm throwing them on 8 lb. with a medium rod; bigger baits I have 12 lb. on a med-heavy (I don't have a ton of rods so they get used for other baits too). Honestly YZ Hybrid behaves more like a standard monofilament than flourocarbon to me (there is a little bit of stretch to it), but for the price compared to a high quality, manageable flouro, I'll spool YZ time and time again. I haven't had any breakage issues - but as with 100% flouro, I check my knots twice or even three times before throwing. 2 Quote
Global Moderator Mike L Posted June 3, 2016 Global Moderator Posted June 3, 2016 I use 12# Yo Zuri for my crank and spinnerbait/chatterbait setup's and very satisfied. Mike 1 Quote
primetime Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 I used to know the Hybrid chart from memory only because I used to help out at a tackle shop where that was the main brand of line we sold.. #10 Hybrid breaks at 16.5 and is not all that thick compared to most 10lb copolys, but I use #4, #6,#10, #15, #20 since I feel they offer the best of all worlds in all areas... Let me put up the chart. Also because Hybrid is a fused line, I believe it does lose strength when wet over 2 hours, I never had issues with it, but it is only like $4 a spool of 600 yds here in Florida at every outlet store and for that price I change it out often but it is really good with abrasion resistance...I would not use the Ultra Soft for casting gear or for cranking unless you are not worried about abrasions...It is too soft imo... #4 is what I use on spinning gear Med Light and it is not your normal 4lb test..I know that number scares people but it is practically 10lb test and much stronger than say Trilene Xt 4lb... 4 Quote
primetime Posted June 3, 2016 Posted June 3, 2016 Here is an awesome link of all lines, size, and everything you would want to know about all types of line and what is best etc...I think its 2012, I had it saved.... http://www.sportfishingmag.com/techniques/rigs-and-tips/sport-fishing-line-test-2011 1 Quote
avidone1 Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 16 hours ago, primetime said: Here is an awesome link of all lines, size, and everything you would want to know about all types of line and what is best etc...I think its 2012, I had it saved.... http://www.sportfishingmag.com/techniques/rigs-and-tips/sport-fishing-line-test-2011 excellent stuff here......Now if I could just find a valid test of fluorocarbon visibility that would be perfect! 1 Quote
Super User MickD Posted June 4, 2016 Super User Posted June 4, 2016 I will never use pure FC again, too temperamental, too fragile if kinked. Yozuri Hybid is a much better choice for a better casting, easier to handle, less hassle line. 1 Quote
primetime Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 9 hours ago, MickD said: I will never use pure FC again, too temperamental, too fragile if kinked. Yozuri Hybid is a much better choice for a better casting, easier to handle, less hassle line. I used to be in the same place that you are when it comes to pure FC...However, if you have not used it in the last 2 years (always check dates on boxes) it has become so much better than it was. I used to hate them all, it would snap during casts, hook sets, knots would break, and it still stretches more than mono (Yes that is a fact) they only marketed it as less stretch when it first came out because it was so stiff, that was a selling point they tried to drive home. The Invisible is kind of BS since clear to clear is like .001 difference, and how is it each company makes invisible green,pink,clear? The advantage FC has over other lines is in the abrasion resistant department and the smaller diameter makes it more dense and lures sink more naturally. I picked up Stren Fluorocast on clearance at K Mart for $3 a pack and it actually has not failed me once. Once it stretches, I cut off a few feet since it never recoils back to original shape. I also use braid as backing to save money. I only spool up maybe 40 yards if pitching and I use 20lb Red Label or Stren, whatever is on sale, and the diameter is closer to most 14lb mono and I believe I get more strikes since baits fall more naturally since it is dense and it rarely frays. I only tie an improved Clinch Knot, tighten it down with Pliers using the tag end which avoids fraying. If your not is not carefully done it can be an issue. I also will use 30lb Triple Fish Leader which is an OEM who makes many brands we use today (Hi Seas just purchased them so expect to see lots of the Trik Fish stuff on clearance, it is the same but they were sued by a company and had to change name to Trik) I use it for punching if wood is around since Braid frays too easy, and leader material is truly great around sharp objects and is quiet in the mats as braid makes loud rubbing noises.. I would give it a chance again if you like to use lighter lines since you can put a 10lb FC leader on braid for say a wacky rig and it is almost like using 6lb diameter...But imo, the only advantage is density and abrasion resistance...It stretches more than Mono, that is fact, the only reason it was marketed as low stretch is because it was so stiff when it first came out and it transmits energy better due to density which causes it to sink more naturally...But Hybrid is fine if you have confidene in it, I use Braids, FC, Copoly, and Mono, just depends but mainly use FL as a leader and I believe it helps. Many people feel the same way you do and I get it 100%, Hybrid is really good line especially for the money. Line companies use so many gimmicks, that is why breaking a pound test record is so rare these days, I think Ande is the only brand that makes lines in the diameter it should be for its rating....If you use a line that says #10 and you are pulling in trees, it is because it is #15 test being sold as #10. Hope that helps...I type fast and didn't proof read but maybe you find you like the new consumer ready stuff. Quote
primetime Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 10 hours ago, avidone1 said: excellent stuff here......Now if I could just find a valid test of fluorocarbon visibility that would be perfect! Which would you test....Invisible Pink, Green, Red, or clear? I have seen tests about flouro and sight and I used to debate the reps from companies all the time, and if you look at clear Nylon-Mono vs. Clear Fluorine Mono, I believe the refractive index difference is in the 100% like .001 difference, and that is in a fish tank with a light. At this point I think we know the differences and newer FC's are so much better every year. I never buy the high end Stuff, Red Label and Stren is what I use for main, and Triple Fish for leader, and since FC stretches more than Nylon Mono, I just make sure that I cut off a good 10 feet if I fight a good fish or it gets stretched since it never comes back to its original shape which is why it coils up.... It is no doubt more abrasion resistant compared to any other line.....It is also more dense so it transmits energy better, and is thinner, so it seems to sink faster and more naturally but really I would say abrasion resistance is the big advantage and I use braid as backing, or just use it as leader...I find an improved Clinch is way to go all the time, pull tag end tight not main line and it seems to do well, 2 years ago I hated it....Hope that helps, I am sure the Tatsu and Really high end stuff is nice and soft, but then I wonder what are you losing in abrasion resistance, but I find Stren to work fine and K Mart puts it on clearance all the time for $3 for 200 yds, same as Red Label and it is not old...I would never use Viscious or any of the Berkley Fluoro's although I hear Berkley is now good as well....I used to buy the more expensive Seaguar and Suffix FC and had issues of spinnerbaits flying off in the middle of a cast, same with any lure if cold outside, but not any more and as a leader, you can throw 12lb test FC into the trees and get your jig out without having a scratch on leader material.....Hope that helps, Also Hi Seas just purchased Triple Fish lines which are actually really good if you can find them on sale. 50 yards of leader is only $5, but I would not try to cast their regular stuff but it will be better next year and no dobut priced well if Hi Seas purchased them. Any brand line that says made in Germany and some in Japan are made by Triple Fish as they make I think 88 brands around the world.... Quote
Global Moderator Mike L Posted June 4, 2016 Global Moderator Posted June 4, 2016 Excellent post Prime! Mike Quote
fissure_man Posted June 4, 2016 Posted June 4, 2016 1 hour ago, primetime said: ...Once it stretches, I cut off a few feet since it never recoils back to original shape.... 59 minutes ago, primetime said: ...and since FC stretches more than Nylon Mono, I just make sure that I cut off a good 10 feet if I fight a good fish or it gets stretched since it never comes back to its original shape which is why it coils up.... Can you explain this a bit more? Cutting off a few (or 10) feet after every good fish or snag sounds like it would get expensive in a hurry, especially with high dollar fluoros. If the line is deforming, why would it only occur in the final few feet? All the line that's not packed on the reel is subject to the same tension. Quote
BassThumb Posted June 5, 2016 Posted June 5, 2016 Big fan of the Hybrid for cranking. I typically use 12# for reaction baits but prefer 10# for cranks. I get better casting distance and likely better action and depth from the thinner diameter line. The 10# breaks at roughly 15 lbs., so it's plenty strong. 1 Quote
papajoe222 Posted June 5, 2016 Posted June 5, 2016 I've been using UltraSoft in 6lb. and 8lb. for jerkbaits and cranks since last season and I really can't say anything negative about it. It handles extremely well on my baitcasters, no issues with knots and it gives me more awareness to what the bait is doing compared to mono. Even with line conditioner, I had issues with fluoro. Not so with Hybrid. I almost forgot to mention, it costs a lot less too 1 Quote
Super User Chris at Tech Posted June 5, 2016 Super User Posted June 5, 2016 To each his own, but I tried fluoro on my cranking rods. Full disclaimer: I don't crank that much, but I didn't see any benefit from fluoro with this technique. I'm not shy about spending my money on good equipment (and my wife will attest to that...), but mono/copoly does just fine for me here. And the added benefit is that my cranking combo becomes more versatile since I can throw topwater baits with mono. 1 Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted June 5, 2016 Super User Posted June 5, 2016 Just now, Chris at Tech said: To each his own, but I tried fluoro on my cranking rods. Full disclaimer: I don't crank that much, but I didn't see any benefit from fluoro with this technique. I'm not shy about spending my money on good equipment (and my wife will attest to that...), but mono/copoly does just fine for me here. And the added benefit is that my cranking combo becomes more versatile since I can throw topwater baits with mono. Right on Brother. A-Jay 1 Quote
primetime Posted June 8, 2016 Posted June 8, 2016 On 6/4/2016 at 6:51 PM, fissure_man said: Can you explain this a bit more? Cutting off a few (or 10) feet after every good fish or snag sounds like it would get expensive in a hurry, especially with high dollar fluoros. If the line is deforming, why would it only occur in the final few feet? All the line that's not packed on the reel is subject to the same tension. Here is why I do it....I mainly use Fluoro for pitching and flipping which is only using 10-15 yards of line, and for most fish (Which are small) the line really does not get any strain where it really stretches imo until it get's close to the boat. I never swing really hard when fishing fluoro and I generally use Higher pound tests, so once I notice it is starting to feel and look stretch, it starts to jump off the spool, I have found that I usually only need to pull about 10 feet off. I am sure it stretches further back when I use it on my spinning rod in lighter pound tests, but for some reason it seems to me the stretch where it tends to break afterwards, is usually within the last 10-15 feet. As I mentioned, I do not by expensive Fluoro, I use Triple Fish for leader and here in Florida we have outlets where a 50 YD spool of leader is about $4 a pack, and I find I only need to change leader a few times a day, which is only a few feet at most each time, and it is so stiff and dense that leader material seems to hold up better. I don't use expensive line. I buy Stren Fluorocast/or Red label when it is on sale and have been lucky since K-mart stocks new packs and puts it on sale for $2.99 or retails it for 7.99 and is 200 yards. A full cast is usually 20-30 yards, so if I put 50 yards on a reel, that is 150 feet and 4 spools full, so it is not more expensive than changing out Mono which is something I do as well after every trip toward the end since it loses strength after being wet and exposed to sun for more than a few hours. My point I guess is it seems the stretch is only an issue when heavy pressure is applied in close quarters from my experience, but I also carry roughly 8-12 rods when I fish with braid on half, Mono/copoly on a few, and Fluoro on a Heavy Casting rod in 20lb test, and another casting rod with 12 and I find it rarely stretches with treble hook baits since I don't have to swing and are fishing baits in less snaggy areas. This is just something I do, It may not be for everyone, but I am too afraid of losing a fish near the boat or having a Nice lure fly off on a cast. I have noticed the new Fluorocarbons are much better and even in Florida, A 4lb Bass and a hard fight is not as often as you would think. I can't use Fluoro on spinning gear except as leader and I only tie on a 10 foot piece anyhow with braid as backing since it saves me money and get's longer casts. I find if I tie a slim Beauty leader knot to my mainline and tie knot carefully it holds up fine, or I just use a swivel if in water with bigger fish. I plan on trying the New Flipping and Pitching line that is on the market since I have heard it is better with stretch, My favorite line is by far a line made by Triple Fish called Camo line made with Perlon, it glows above water, is invisible underwater (Or at least in tanic water) and for flipping I generally go that route or braid, I only use FLuoro in wood and very clear water (I doubt it helps in clear water but it is a mental thing) and that is rare for me, weeds are the main issue. I hope that helps. Most people think that Nylon Mono stretches more than FC but it is the exact opposite in most cases. Every line is different, from what I have been told by Anglers much more skilled than myself is that 100% FC is extremely rare even if sold as such, if you burn it with a lighter it should flake away all black right away, and if you do that test you will see most FC lines are actually Copoly lines anyhow. I am sure the high end stuff Like Abrasix, Tatsu etc. are all pure, I would hope that Berkley is as well, but I will never pay that kind of money for a line to find out that you have to rub it with line conditioner and pre stretch it and wind it on tight and baby it when paying $30??? If you keep your drag set properly, are fishing a crankbait on 12lb test, you really never have to really put a ton of pressure on the line with the right rod, and only fish over 3lbs really pull line near the boat...Sorry for the long answer, I type fast but I hope that explains what the thinking in my head is like....I do know this for a FACT..I have never met a Saltwater Guide who spools up his lines with FC as a main line, they use it for leader and think it is a scam since Bass Anglers buy more tackle than anyone else. Saltwater Magazines never have adds for FC lines as mainline, and has a company even tried...."SALTWATER FC Main line like they do Cranking FC, Flipping FC, Jitterbug FC etc....As I mentioned, It is by far more abrasion than other lines especially leader material, and Triple Fish makes many of the brands people pay big money for, they just are the OEM and do not have to market it and therefore sell the line much cheaper...The Owner of a tackle shop I used to work for carried about 8 brands of line, 2 Store brands, and all were made by Triple Fish/Trik Fish-Same company. Quote
Cgrinder Posted June 8, 2016 Posted June 8, 2016 For whatever reason, Hybrid feels super dead in my hands, so I don't use it. However fluoro is unnecessary unless you're pausing jerks in cold water. Different conversation there. #crankwithbraid Quote
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