Texas Rig Questions

[Robertqq]

Hello,

                                                     =If a double Post, I apologize; pc acting up again "

I do small Pond fishing here in Mass.

Would like to try the Texas Rig, which I haven't ever.

Two questions, please:

a. I assume that the use of the slip sinker, besides getting the worm to the bottom, is to allow a fish to take the

worm without actually feeling the weight of the sinker.

True ?

b. Pond depth is about 8 or 9 feet, max.

What would be a good length of line to allow the sinker to slip thru; e.g. from the hook to the knot that

would prevent further movement of the sinker up the line ?

Is 1 foot adequate for 8 or 8 foot depth fishing ?

Thanks,

Bob

[Brayberry]

A: a Bullet Weight is typically used

B: Most people just let the weight slide freely, but if you want it to no, then use a bobber stop, no knot needed

 

[scaleface]

a. False .The sinker is to add weight . Its just easy to put it on and let it slide . If you want to peg it in place thats ok but not necessary .  

 

b. Doesnt make any difference how deep the pond is. 1 foot 100 foot . Just let the sinker slide and you will be doing it correctly . 

[S. Sass]

Typical weight used with Texas Rigging can be Tungsten or lead, use the smaller profile weight that gets the job done. If you can afford Tungsten its a much better weight for this as it keeps the profile very compact on the bait and still gives you the ability to cast it a decent distance. For me the weight is used in ponds mainly for casting. Sometimes to get it into some cover if its thick and I cant get the bait to drop in where I want it.  

Leaving the weight free not pegged usually lets the bait have a better presentation. I prefer it not pegged when using a weight. Like others have said you can use a bobber stop or toothpick to peg the weight but I rarely see a need for this in pond fishing. Most cases I use no weight or a 1/8 or 3/16 oz unless I just have to throw directly into a strong wind or heavy cover.  

 

[joeblowwwww]

the sinker is good for penetrating grass etc. other than that let it sink free, 

[Wbeadlescomb]

3/16th ounce is a good all around weight try to get some ultravibe speed craw I'm green pumpkin watermelon or black. They are almost a guaranteed fish catcher

[Nitrofreak]

The T-Rig is like the SUV of all rigs we use, the weight is used for not only distance but can also be used for rate of fall as well, the T-Rig is also used to get into and through heavy vegetation and all sorts of cover, the purpose of the T-Rig is to allow the weight to get to the bottom quickly or quicker than your bait, in turn as the weight sinks to the bottom it slides up your line as it travels if you let it fall on a semi slack line, this gives the bait roughly 6 to 10 inches of weightless presentation, depending on variances of depth and weight choice, once the weight hits the bottom it takes a little extra time for the bait to reach bottom afterward, depending on bait size and chemical construction along with hook size, some baits will fall slower giving you a little longer weightless presentation, shallow waters really require very little weight, heavy vegetation and deeper water usually require heavier weight, pegging your weight takes away the use of this portion of presentation before making contact with the weight, which a lot of times is where you will get a strike and becomes more like a Carolina rig or split shot type rig, pegging your weight close to the bait makes it more like a jig type presentation, I never peg my T-Rig because I want that momentary weightless presentation from the fall as well as on the first movement before it makes contact with the weight.

The T-Rig is best suited for working cover, although it's a truly great presentation for almost anywhere, just like an SUV would use 4WD for better traction in rough terrain, this rig allows you to come through and over some pretty mean stuff with less chances of snagging, not that it is completely snag free but it does work these pieces of cover much better than many other rigs because of just how thorough it is, if you are working a brush pile or grass, keep in mind that the tail of the bait may want to grab or wrap around whatever your working, for example, a twist tail worm is less likely to come through or over a brush pile without getting tangled in which case a straight tail worm would be better suited for your presentation where as a ribbon tail worm might be better suited to work just outside of these rough areas.

[Mike L]

Can't add anything of value over than what was already posted.

So here's a little tip, adding a bead of your choice can give you an edge.

 

Mike 

[the reel ess]

A. Don't peg it. No reason to. Fish will hold it longer if you don't. I'm sure people will disagree with that and there are exceptions. But not many people would tell you bass hold a jig longer than a worm. So it does matter.

B. The shallower the water, the less weight is required to keep the bait down. I usually will use 1/8 oz min. on spinning and 3/16 oz min on baitcasting, the latter only because I'll birdnest with 1/8 on BC equipment. Higher winds might require more weight to keep contact with the bait to feel a bite. You'll get more bites with less weight. If you can stand it, try a Trick Worm, weightless. Then you can fish it from top to bottom and in very heavy cover. This is always tied on a spinning rid if I'm at a pond.

 

Second Mike L. I use a black glass bead between the weight and hook and am convinced the click-click draws some extra bites. Another reason not to peg.

[Ohio Yakker]

Another option that I have had success with is using a weighted swimbait hook. I think this gives the bait a slightly different action when it is falling, and also helps keep it balanced and in a more upright position when texas rigging a craw type bait.

[greentrout]

 

[geo g]

Don't over complicate a simple technique.  All of the above info is sound.  You will develop your own favorite methods.  I fish a variety of Texas rigged baits because of the thick vegetation in Florida.  I follow a few simple self imposed rules.  1). I seldom peg the weight and let it slide free.  2). I use as little weight as possible for the conditions.  Often a 1/32 bullet weight.  This allows the bait to wiggle and slide on the way down.  The bullet weight also protects the nose of the bait in the thick cover.  No wind I will go weightless.  Heavy wind I will increase the weight.  3). I use EWG Gama thin wire hooks for senkos and flukes and go through the plastic and only skin hook the barb. The thin wire provides max penetration on the set.  Only use heavy wire hooks while flipping with heavy braid. 

The more you do it, you should develop your own style, for your conditions, amount of vegetation, and fishing ability.  There is not just one correct method regardless what people say.  There will be one correct way that you eventually develop!!!!

[greentrout]

 

[scaleface]

When it comes to weight size , you just have to try different ones . Bill Dance says to use the lightest possible . Larry Nixon says to use heavier weights . They are both legendary worm fishermen . I side with Nixon . On a six inch worm  , 3/16th to 5/16 ounce is what I usually use , even in skinny water . I think day in and day out the faster drop gets more bites  , I get more cast in  , cover more water and present my lure to more fish .

[lo n slo]

i'll throw a 3/16 oz texas rig most of the time unless the wind is up, then it's a 1/4 oz. i fish alot of deeper structure as the spring progresses into summer and even  on into early fall. i want to be able to feel those rocks and stumps and brushpiles. stroking or dragging, it is my addiction and i am ever in search of my next fix. catch one for me.