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Posted
On 4/9/2016 at 0:28 PM, avidone1 said:

so you put the foam blocks right on the crossbars?   When you slide the kayak over them, do they slip or come off the rack?  this sounds like an easy cheap solution if it works good

Sorry for the late reply, They stay on. There is a groove on 1 side that wraps around the cross bars. I slide a Lure 11.5 yak on those things without any proplem of them coming off.

  • Like 1
Posted

I used to put it in the back of the truck with a bed extender.  I picked the trailer up for $225 and modified it a little and for under $250 I have a great trailer for the long hauls when I have to fill the bed with camping gear.  Just have to paint it and add some home made rod pods and a toolbox on one side and it will be set.

image.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I'd scoot that forward a foot or two, and use bow and stern straps attached to the tow/pull out loops that should be under each bumper. That's a lot of leverage on a small tie down footprint.  It may stress the hull.

Posted
Just now, J Francho said:

I'd scoot that forward a foot or two, and use bow and stern straps attached to the tow/pull out loops that should be under each bumper. That's a lot of leverage on a small tie down footprint.  It may stress the hull.

Ive got a stern strap now...also have an under hood strap thingy that brings the bow rope out more towards the hood. 

Try not to have the bow too far forward because of wind drag and stress of the nose lifting at hwy speeds. 

  • Super User
Posted

It should be balanced.  Not all aero force is applied to the front.  There's quite a bit on the back too.  Easy to spot - check your mirrors, if it's moving, tie it down.  Shouldn't be tight either.  Taught is a better description.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I know... old post. Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd see if anyone here knows.  I have a Pescadore Pro110 that I just got and I've used it twice, once transported with the tailgate down and once with the tailgate up.  I drive an F150 with the short 5.6 bed. A buddy of mine pointed out that I may be creating a "soft spot" where the kayak rests on the closed tailgate.

Is there any truth to this? I live in Arizona where its going to be in or near triple digits for the next three or four months so it seems somewhat plausible that I may create a soft spot while traveling in excess of an hour each way to a lake in mid-day heat.

Thanks for any insight.

Posted
20 minutes ago, QUIENYO said:

I know... old post. Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd see if anyone here knows.  I have a Pescadore Pro110 that I just got and I've used it twice, once transported with the tailgate down and once with the tailgate up.  I drive an F150 with the short 5.6 bed. A buddy of mine pointed out that I may be creating a "soft spot" where the kayak rests on the closed tailgate.

Is there any truth to this? I live in Arizona where its going to be in or near triple digits for the next three or four months so it seems somewhat plausible that I may create a soft spot while traveling in excess of an hour each way to a lake in mid-day heat.

Thanks for any insight.

I always have my tailgate down on my S10 with my Ride 115. However the Pescador is a roto molded kayak so I suspect that even a 3 hour ride on top of the tailgate with all that air flow would not cause any deformation unless you were applying a lot of torque with a ratchet strap.

Posted

I have one strap, but its not super tight. I think i may be ok.  Another question, I am new to the kayak club, why would it matter if it is roto molded? I get that that is the process used to make the boat, what does that mean as far as durability?   

  • Super User
Posted

roto molded is believed to be stronger but also heavier and more durable and cheaper.  Thermoformed is a little different and you can tell because they look shiny, almost like fiberglass.  It is lighter, not as durable (allegedly) but also a lot more expensive.  Then of course there are the carbon fiber and fiberglass boats which are even lighter but less durable when it comes to taking the abuse that fishing puts on a boat.  

Roto molded boats basically will continue to scratch till you break through where the other materials will crack....

I have seen people with thermoformed boats praise their durability though so who knows lol 

Posted

As flyfisher explained roto molded kayaks are really tough and durable. There are some inexpensive kayaks out there where you have a top half and a bottom half basically "glued/welded" together. On those kayaks I would not recommend applying a lot of torque at an odd angle in high heat.

  • Super User
Posted

It's tough to say that thermoformed or rotomolded is stronger than the other.  It really comes down to quality of manufacture.  Some brands are better than others.  You get what you pay for.

  • Super User
Posted

I want to believe someone here has a float plane and puIddle hops to remote lakes.

 

Lie to me.  Somebody.  

  • Like 2
Posted

I use a few pool noodles to put in between the kayak and what ever car I'm taking and then I just ratchet tie the kayak down. Works with both cars with and without a roof rack.

  • Like 1
Posted

I use an extend-a-truck on my F-150. I'm looking into a roof rack so when I go camping and want to take my yak and still have bed space with tailgate up, I can put th extender in the vertical position to carry it like a ladder rack. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I bit the bullet and bought a combination of Thule and Yakima rack system parts (Thule mounts and crossbars; Yakima kayak cradle) to tote my 'yak on my Subaru Forester.  The piece of mind knowing your kayak is properly secured is worth a lot.

I later added a slide-out extension for one of the crossbars, making it easier to load my heavy kayak onto the roof.

Shark Bait b.jpg

Tight lines,

Bob

  • Super User
Posted
On June 14, 2016 at 10:26 PM, Quesenek said:

I use a few pool noodles to put in between the kayak and what ever car I'm taking and then I just ratchet tie the kayak down. Works with both cars with and without a roof rack.

I do this also did it with my ocean kayak big game and now with my ATAK. I cut it I half put one section on the roof set kayak on it then pick up the back end and walk to the truck. The kayak rolls ontop of the noodle to the front Then I just out one under the back end and ratchet her down 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I live in the city and drive a ton for work, so having a truck is out.  I have a Lure 13.5 that definitely requires two people to get on my A4's roof.  While it's a great big stable boat, it is one heavy/awkward beast to lift.  I have Thule Aerobars and the foldable cradle system.  Torquing it down stable sometimes temporarily deforms the kayak where it's tightened to the cradle, but it straightens itself out almost instantly once it's removed.  Once I can get out of Philly, a trailer is definitely in order.  

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