Plastic newbie

[CSimon2]

I have been looking at everyone's hand poured plastic baits and you have convinced me to give it a try. First off, everything looks so great on here. Great job guys! To get myself started I have read articles on making homemade worm molds. I am a cheapskate and decided to go this route instead of jumping in and buying a bunch of molds. I use a lot of curly tail grubs so I decided to make a mold using those. I used plaster of paris as my mold making material. I mixed up the first batch and set the curly tail grubs in the plaster along with roofing nails for alignment for when I pour on the second half. I started with 5 nails, but thought that was overkill and went with 2.

I let it set for about and hour. I used vaseline and lubed up the mold and also used some aluminum foil to separate the two halves. I poured the second half and was able to break them apart after letting that half set for over an hour. You can see I carved pouring holes in the top of the mold.

I have a few questions for the experts now. Do I need to seal the mold before I pour the plastic in it? Can I melt down plastics I have, but never use? I got them in a bucket of plastics I ordered from Cabela's years ago. My third question is if there is another mold making material that can be used instead of the plaster of paris that might be better. I have seen the fiberglass resin molds, but that looks like too much work for me. I look forward to hearing from the experts. Thanks in advance for everyone's tips and advice.

Chuck

[.dsaavedra.]

i think most people seal PoP molds before they use them. i think i remember some people use a mixture of elmers glue and water and really soak it into the worm cavities.

post pictures of how your grubs turn out!

[Vodkaman]

Resin is no more work than plaster. In fact you could argue that it was less work, as it does not require days to dry or time in an oven to dry and does not require sealing.

All molding methods are about the same. Preparation, mixing, pour and cleanup.

Dave

[Captain Obvious]

Here is a great video on how to make molds. Plus its good for a laugh just listen to some of the off subject comments.

[MMan16]

I'm not an expert by any means but if you seal up the two halves wont you have to brake them apart to get the grubs out? I would say use your nails in the holes and get some clamps. Nail it to align cavities clamp it snug then pour. Just my 2.

[CSimon2]

Thanks for the great info everyone!

I'm not an expert by any means but if you seal up the two halves wont you have to brake them apart to get the grubs out? I would say use your nails in the holes and get some clamps. Nail it to align cavities clamp it snug then pour. Just my 2.

Sorry, what I mean by seal is to coat the insides with a sealer whether it be a lacquer or an epoxy. I didn't know if this was necessary or if I can pour without sealing.

[Captain Obvious]

This guy uses a 50/50 solution of water and elmers glue looks simple and easy.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/18833-pop-mold-tutorial-part-ii/

[SENKOSAM]

I always seal one or two part molds with a water soluble glossy dry wall sealer such as Valspar.

I can use a new single sided mold within three hours, start to finish; two part a bit longer.

I'm wondering how a two part curl tail grub mold will pour without injection. Usually the tail doesn't fill in.

Most plastic lures can be remelted but I recommend using 25 percent new plastic with the old lures.

[CSimon2]

Thanks for the link Captain Obvious!  I will check it out later.

I always seal one or two part molds with a water soluble glossy dry wall sealer such as Valspar.

I can use a new single sided mold within three hours, start to finish; two part a bit longer.

I'm wondering how a two part curl tail grub mold will pour without injection. Usually the tail doesn't fill in.

Most plastic lures can be remelted but I recommend using 25 percent new plastic with the old lures.

Thanks for all of your info SENKOSAM!  I was wondering about using an injector because of the tail.  I will have to see what I can come up with.  Thanks again everyone!!!

[MMan16]

Thanks for the great info everyone!

I'm not an expert by any means but if you seal up the two halves wont you have to brake them apart to get the grubs out? I would say use your nails in the holes and get some clamps. Nail it to align cavities clamp it snug then pour. Just my 2.

Sorry, what I mean by seal is to coat the insides with a sealer whether it be a lacquer or an epoxy. I didn't know if this was necessary or if I can pour without sealing.

Gotcha.

[Bass Dude]

You need to seal them or you will get bubbles in your baits.

I just use straight Elmers and it works great.  I use about 3-5 coats on the mold until I pour.

[SENKOSAM]

You need to seal them or you will get bubbles in your baits.

Never had that happen. What I have had happen is plastic sticking to the plaster and ripping or pulling bits of plaster away from the mold.

[CSimon2]

I did a trial the other night with not so good results.  I was using a plastic medicine syringe to inject the plastic into the mold.  My first set had full bodies, but only partial tails.  I decided to try it again and the second time I used more force to inject.  I got full tails, but partial bodies.  The plastic was sticking to the mold, so I did apply a few coats of straight Elmers glue to the cavities.  I need to get a better injector as the one I was using melted during my second run.  Have to practice until I get it right.  Seems like I picked a hard worm to pour.  Should have tried something else besides a curly tail grub.  Oh Well, live and learn.   

[FuzzyGrub]

My experience is that curly tails need an injector to come out right.   It is a bit tough doing in pop or esin to get a good seam seal.  The added pressure of the injector can cause allot of seam flash. 

As the mold heats up, it might pour better.  Also having some vent lines on the tail and tail tip to allow the air out, might help.   You also have to keep adding plastic to the sprue as it cools and contracts, otherwise you endup with hollow noses.