Boat repar

[Alpha Male]

Morning all. I have a 81 ranger 1600-v3 bass boat that has a leak.  It is right on the center line about 1" in diameter and want to know what you guys recommend to patch it?

I thinking an epoxy type resin.  I'm really looking to avoid cutting out a big hole.

 

let me know what you guys think. and thanks in advance for your help.

 

 

 

[joefish]

Marine Tex to fill the hole, then install a keel shield.   Looks like that center rib really has taken a beating

[gulfcaptain]

3 hours ago, joefish said:

Marine Tex to fill the hole, then install a keel shield.   Looks like that center rib really has taken a beating

This is a stop gap quick fix....but not a complete fix.  You're going to have to sand, fiberglass/epoxy, sand, fiberglass bondo filler to fill rough spots, sand again, epoxy coating, then install a keel shield.  I would run a 6" strip of fiberglass tape down the whole length of the boat.  If there is a weak spot, it's going to move to another spot.  Sorry to be honest, but you need to do the whole centerline or you're gonna chase it.  It's a weak spot that will find another weak spot.  Once you get it off the trailer and on jacks somehow you probably can knock it out in a week or two at the most. And as for what to use West Marine's West System's 2 part epoxy is what I would use.

[Alpha Male]

thank you for your replies.  I have heard mixed reviews on the keel shield.  any reason to consider moving the roller near the hole or is it ok?

 

also, gulfcaptain, are you thinking that i need you sand all the gelcoat in the area and then use the glass tape? I was still thinking that I would recoat the 3' section of the centerline with a coat or gelcoat or something. but still considering the keel protector as well.

[Fishing Rhino]

What gulfcaptain said. 

The contour of that centerline "bulge" serves to stiffen the hull, and spreads the force of pounding through even small waves over a larger area.  The same is true of the steps on a hull.  Do not use polyester fiberglass resin.  It will never be as strong as the original construction.  In the original construction, the composite has a chemical bond which "links" the components.  Once that construction cures, subsequent layup will only have a mechanical bond and polyester resins are much weaker than epoxy, and less flexible as well.  Over time, the mechanical bond of polyester will fail, and you'll be back to square one.

Prepare the surface carefully removing all grit, grime, and damaged areas before laying up new materials.

I see you are in Minnesota, a cold winter climate.  That broken area will allow for moisture to wick into the composite.  When it freezes, it will expand, causing more damage.  Once started, it becomes an endless, accelerating process.  Polyester resin, contrary to popular opinion is not waterproof.  It can and will absorb moisture.  Gel coat does not absorb moisture.  In addition to appearance, it provides a barrier to water that  would otherwise soak into polyester resin.

Here's a hint for all.  Vinylester resin, which is also used in boat construction is waterproof.  If you modify compartments using plywood then want to cover the plywood with fiberglass, or any similar type of work, use vinylester resin.  If you are modifying a jon boat, decking the bow and stern, and building in storage compartments with a layer of fiberglass coating, use vinylester.  It will cost more, but it will do a better job preventing water intrusion into the laminate.

[Alpha Male]

thats solid information. FYI the boat is stored in a heated garage year-round so it wont be freezing.  I think that I will head to west marine and check out the epoxy that they have and some sort of keel saver.

 

Thanks for the help guys and I will be back with more questions as I progress through this project.