Super User Master Bait'r Posted March 4, 2016 Super User Posted March 4, 2016 As a bit of a preface, I wanted to get rid of my kayak because I've outgrown it. Too much gear, not enough space or comfort... It was time for an upgrade. I didn't, however, want to break the bank nor did I want to compromise in what I got next. I considered kayaks in the $1k range, but then eventually decided that I could do and get more out of being patient and buying a used canoe to build up myself. (Disclaimer: I'm a lifelong custom metal fabricator with a full shop at my disposal) I ended up finding this 14' OT Sport canoe on Craigslist for $225, snatched it up as fast as I could and started brainstorming. The basic idea was for four ultra-secure rod holders, room for a livewell, custom brackets all over for of my growing cache of gear and that it could support a real, actually comfortable boat seat. The rest of the details I can dial over time, but these were my most basic requirements. This thread will continue to be modified as projects get wrapped up, and I'm really looking forward to getting this beast finished up and out on the water! The first order of business was rod holders. I only use 4 combos on any given day. I have a few more, but these are my 4 horsemen. I wanted to design rod holders that would keep them in front of me and out of the way of my casting, have enough room between them so I wasn't knocking them into each other all the time, keep them super safe and locked in (in case of a rollover), also I wanted the tips below the bow line and make sure they're fully supported and not just bowing out all day in the sun. I also wanted to leave enough room in the middle for a livewell cooler. This is what I came up with after standing on the shoulders of giants (Fishing Rhino, 00 Mod, A-Jay and a few other guys too) and used a few ideas from just about everybody's design and came up with this so far: The bracket itself is made from I believe 11 gauge carbon steel 2" strip, has six 3/16" aluminum rivets on multiple facet reinforcements and all the faces that touch were gobbed to the max with marine epoxy to make sure I have the maximum adhesion humanly possible. The rubber clamps are fastened securely by 1/8" aluminum rivets as well. That's the only piece I've fully completed so far today, but I am loving how it keeps those rod handles locked in nice and tight and it is really easy to use with one hand. The tips will be supported by fixed golf club separator tubes (Thanks Mod 00!) held in place by similar bracketry so they can't fall out, knock into each other or anything else undesirable. Below I've shown how they lock the handles in but the angle is a bit off, as the tip tubes aren't installed yet and they are resting really low so the butts are a bit high. I'd say it's off to a solid start in any case, but what do you guys think? I love hearing peoples' opinions, and the input of others is literally how I came to finalize any of these ideas in my head. The brainstorming power and experience that can be had here is invaluable in putting together a project like this, so thanks to everyone who posted in my other thread, as well as a 'thanks in advance' to anybody who participates here. You guys are the best. I'll do my best to keep working on it & updating as I can! Cheers!! Matt 4 Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 4, 2016 Super User Posted March 4, 2016 I like those rod holders, for the reasons you stated. Readily accessible, and well protected from brush and branches when you venture into the shallows. Very nice brackets for them. The only difference between your canoe, and the one I have (not in my avatar) is that mine has a square stern. It does have plenty of storage including that in the middle seat. Looks like you are well on your way. 1 Quote
Super User Master Bait'r Posted March 4, 2016 Author Super User Posted March 4, 2016 I WISH mine has a square stern! That's the ONE thing I'm not thrilled about on it. Quote
Super User Goose52 Posted March 4, 2016 Super User Posted March 4, 2016 Yup - good start. Have fun ! Quote
Neil McCauley Posted March 6, 2016 Posted March 6, 2016 Great choice of canoe. Probably the most helpful thing for designing mods for it is just to take it out and fish in it. You will figure out how weight is distributed and where you want things situated. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 6, 2016 Super User Posted March 6, 2016 Before you go too far, consider setting the canoe up backward, which will put you closer to the center of the canoe. The canoe in my avatar is rigged "backward". If I fish with it in the "normal" configuration, the stern settles quite low, and the bow is too high. The problem you have with your canoe is that the seats are molded in such a way that it might be awkward or uncomfortable to sit on the seats as they are formed. I'd recommend this type of arrangement. It allows you to fish with either end being the bow. These seats are very comfortable, swivel, and you can tilt them by using various thicknesses of wood along the edges. You can experiment, tipping the seat forward or backward until you find what works best for you. http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/IMG_0148_zpsc82f5c26.jpg For some reason, I'm having a problem posting images, so you'll have to click on the link above. In the image, you can see the spacer below the plywood, to which I bolted the seat. Use a couple of ratchet straps to secure the seat to the canoe. You can easily make changes to the position of the seat by releasing the ratchet strap and changing the shim thickness. The ratchet strap will secure the seat so it cannot move. Once you are sure the seat is the way you want it, you can bolt it in place and get rid of the bulky ratchet strap. Or, you can put the mechanism with the lever underneath the seat, so it does not interfere with the swiveling action of the seat. With your metal fabricating skills you could use aluminum or stainless plate in place of wood. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 6, 2016 Super User Posted March 6, 2016 Testing to see if this will show as a photo. http://s135.photobucket.com/user/HomarusAmericanus/library/ Nope. Quote
Super User Master Bait'r Posted March 6, 2016 Author Super User Posted March 6, 2016 13 minutes ago, Fishing Rhino said: Testing to see if this will show as a photo. http://s135.photobucket.com/user/HomarusAmericanus/library/ Nope. You're attaching the http, you've got to share the IMG code instead. It should have (it won't let me add the tag, but it's a set of brackets with "IMG" inside) as a bookend at either end of the link you post, otherwise it's just a link to your hosted image. 4 hours ago, Fishing Rhino said: Before you go too far, consider setting the canoe up backward, which will put you closer to the center of the canoe. The canoe in my avatar is rigged "backward". If I fish with it in the "normal" configuration, the stern settles quite low, and the bow is too high. The problem you have with your canoe is that the seats are molded in such a way that it might be awkward or uncomfortable to sit on the seats as they are formed. I'd recommend this type of arrangement. It allows you to fish with either end being the bow. These seats are very comfortable, swivel, and you can tilt them by using various thicknesses of wood along the edges. You can experiment, tipping the seat forward or backward until you find what works best for you. http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q155/HomarusAmericanus/IMG_0148_zpsc82f5c26.jpg For some reason, I'm having a problem posting images, so you'll have to click on the link above. In the image, you can see the spacer below the plywood, to which I bolted the seat. Use a couple of ratchet straps to secure the seat to the canoe. You can easily make changes to the position of the seat by releasing the ratchet strap and changing the shim thickness. The ratchet strap will secure the seat so it cannot move. Once you are sure the seat is the way you want it, you can bolt it in place and get rid of the bulky ratchet strap. Or, you can put the mechanism with the lever underneath the seat, so it does not interfere with the swiveling action of the seat. With your metal fabricating skills you could use aluminum or stainless plate in place of wood. I like this idea, but I kind of have to stick with the layout I've got. Those brackets were not made to be removable and they'd block the console if I sat on the other side. I was thinking the bow would rise once I'm in it, but I'm also leaving space to put a cooler or bucket ballast up front. Also I've got plans for the seat for sure. Those plastic seats are a recipe for sufferage! Going to fab up some really nice brackets and maybe a locking swivel and would like a nice mid-back seat because my lower back is that of an 80yo man. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 6, 2016 Super User Posted March 6, 2016 Okay, I'll try the img code. This is the result. http:// Okay, that worked. I copied the IMG code, then placed it in the page that opened when I clicked the link in the toolbar at the top of the post page. Thanks. 1 Quote
Super User Master Bait'r Posted March 6, 2016 Author Super User Posted March 6, 2016 2 minutes ago, Fishing Rhino said: Okay, I'll try the img code. This is the result. http:// Okay, that worked. I copied the IMG code, then placed it in the page that opened when I clicked the link in the toolbar at the top of the post page. Thanks. Win! You can also delete the http: part in front if you want, it won't effect the pic unless you mess with what's inside the IMG bracket bookends. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 6, 2016 Super User Posted March 6, 2016 Back to your topic. I prefer the seats tipped forward a little bit, and that swiveling makes a big difference. Another thing I did was to drill the top side of the seat back and the front side of the seat and used 3/16" braided polyester cord to take the pressure off the hinge. I had the plastic crack at the pivot pin. Just too much leverage. Took some monel fishing line, and made several tight turns to contain the crack, then used the cord, making it just tight enough to take the strain off the pivot point. I see you used pop rivets to mount your rod holders. I'd suggest coating them with a bit of silicone sealer to prevent water intrusion. It's not likely to be a problem w/o it, but it won't hurt to keep that compartment as dry as possible. It's where I stow the registration, fishing license, and a screwdriver and pair of pliers in case I have to change a shear pin on the trolling motor. Quote
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