Super User Munkin Posted September 13, 2010 Super User Posted September 13, 2010 By null at 2010-09-13 My favorite so far as I finally got the dye to work right in the resin. By null at 2010-09-13 Had trouble cutting the lip slot on this one but I usually don't use these types of bills. By null at 2010-09-13 This one I need to figure out where to put the line tie (bill is not glued in yet). Allen Quote
Super User Munkin Posted September 17, 2010 Author Super User Posted September 17, 2010 Well I tested out the orange one yesterday and it is a very slow sinker in 70 degree water. It will suspend for about 5 seconds before it starts to sink so this should work well for cold water. I was trying for a slow floater but this resin is more tricky to weight than wood. Allen Quote
Vodkaman Posted September 17, 2010 Posted September 17, 2010 Presumably you want to fit the same weight and hardware every time and get the same result. I think this is easier to achieve with resin than wood, as wood density varies even from one end of the plank to the other. At least with resin, you can control the density. You need an accurate digital gram scale, for measuring out the micro balloons AND the resin. Control the numbers to 0.1 of a gram and you will achieve the consistency that you are looking for. Keep records too, very important. Once you know the ratio of resin weight to MB weight, you can use a spreadsheet. Type in the resin weight and the spreadsheet will tell you the MB weight. Another method: Record the weight of the blank body and the weight of the ballast that you add, to the perfect swimming lure. Then if the next body is a fraction heavier, you simply reduce the lead by the same amount. The final lure should always weigh the same, because you have controlled the lure volume by molding. This is the method that I use on my duplicated wooden blanks. It is not as complicated as I make it sound. Communication is not my strong suit. Dave Quote
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