Fishwhittler Posted September 3, 2010 Posted September 3, 2010 Figured it was time for an update. I've been using U-40 now for over two months and still no signs of yellowing, and I don't think it's going to yellow anytime soon (if it ever does). Here's what I've noticed about U-40 and Flex Coat: Trondak U-40 LS Supreme High Build: 1. Somewhat slicker to touch than Flex Coat 2. More durable (U-40 can tear if you get a hook point or other sharp object through it, but it doesn't chip or crack) 3. More teeth-resistant than Flex Coat. U-40 doesn't scratch as easily or as deeply, mainly due to its extra flexibility 4. Cheaper than Flex Coat U-40 is also considerably thicker than Flex Coat, but that can be either an advantage or a disadvantage. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you used the medium-viscosity version of U-40. Flex Coat Ultra V: 1. Easier to mix bubble-free than U-40. I can mix Flex Coat completely bubble-free, which so far I haven't been able to do with U-40. 2. Slightly longer cure time, which means you have more application time. 3. Less odor (U-40 doesn't smell very much, but Flex Coat has practically no odor at all) 4. Easier application. Flex Coat is thinner and spreads easier than U-40. Those are the main points I can think of, but that should give a pretty fair idea of how U-40 compares to Flex Coat. Neither of these can claim the title of the "Perfect Topcoat", but both are excellent coatings that provide very good protection for lures. Thanks for reading. Ben Quote
NateFollmer Posted September 3, 2010 Posted September 3, 2010 Thanks for this info. I'll have to get a little of both and see how well I do Quote
Fishwhittler Posted September 3, 2010 Author Posted September 3, 2010 Glad you like it. Here's the rest of the review if you're interested: Trondak U-40 Review. Both Flex Coat and U-40 are available from Mudhole.com. I've done some experimenting with my mixing process since posting that thread (not this one). Now I mix U-40 steadily for four minutes without stopping or heating, and then let it sit for ten minutes before application. I still get some bubbles, but not as many as I was getting. You can pop some of the bubbles once the epoxy is on the bait by blowing through a straw; I find that this works better than simply blowing on the bait without a straw. Edit: Forgot the pics. Below are some pics of a bait that I coated with U-40. The scratches you see on the shoulder of the bait are from the bait slamming into a rock at high speed. I had got the lure tangled in a tree close to the water, and so I gave it a few jerks to pull it free. It came loose, but it came flying back at me and smashed into some rip-rap next to where I was standing. The marks on the back of the bait are the only damage the bait received from the impact. Quote
NateFollmer Posted September 3, 2010 Posted September 3, 2010 This may some completely stupid because I have never done any of this before but what if you did a coat of Ultra V let that cure, then did a run of Flex coat? Maybe that would protect better from hooks ripping the bait? Maybe it's more work than what it's worth but just a thought I was just going to ask you where you got it at so thanks for answering Oh another question: Roughly how many baits can you cover with 2 oz? Just say a 2 1/2 crank to keep it simple Quote
Fishwhittler Posted September 3, 2010 Author Posted September 3, 2010 Ultra V and Flex Coat are the same thing. The two epoxies I've been talking about are Flex Coat Ultra V High Build and Trondak U-40 LS Supreme High Build. What happened with the tear was the hook point got stuck in the finish and then ripped free. That could happen to almost any finish, but the flexibility of U-40 may make it more susceptible to this kind of damage. Flex Coat is harder and I haven't had this kind of thing happen when I used it, but it chips rather than tear and it gets hook rash easier. Putting Flex Coat over U-40 or vise-versa might do something, but I don't think it would really make the finish more durable. Whichever epoxy on top would still have the same chemical makeup as before, so I'd think you would still have the same effect as if you were only using one epoxy. A 2 1/2" crank usually needs a little over 1 cc of epoxy to coat it completely. I just did some calculating, and there are roughly 240 cc's in an 8 ounce epoxy kit, so assuming two coats per lure you'd get about 120 lures out of it. But then you have to account for waste and extra coats, so the actual figure would be closer to 95-100 baits from an 8 ounce epoxy kit. For a two ounce kit you would only get about 1/4 of that, so then you're only talking 20-25 baits. The number of lures you can coat from a single kit will also vary if you make larger or smaller lures. Hope this helps. Ben Quote
NateFollmer Posted September 3, 2010 Posted September 3, 2010 Sorry, I meant to say Ultra V and Trondak Anyway, great info here so thanks a lot! I was thinking 2 oz would only do maybe 2 or 3 baits so thats good to hear that I could possibly get 20. I have a feelings I'll be spending a lot of money once I get started because this looks very addicting haha. Quote
Fishwhittler Posted September 3, 2010 Author Posted September 3, 2010 Glad to help! 8-) BTW, you'll probably want to get epoxy syringes to accurately measure your epoxy. Accurate measuring is one of the two most important things to getting a good topcoat on your lures (the other vital step is mixing thoroughly; even if you measure correctly, if you don't mix well you'll end up with sticky, uncured epoxy). U-40 comes with a pair of 3 cc syringes, but they're pretty small and Flex Coat doesn't come with any. Mudhole sells 12 cc syringes in pairs, and you'll want them if you coat more than five or six lures at a time. Quote
NateFollmer Posted September 3, 2010 Posted September 3, 2010 Thanks for all the help! I'll get some of those syringes. Hopefully I'll get some good cranks made Quote
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