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Posted

I am a big fan of the Revo MGX's braking system.  It allows for almost limitless adjustments. I was thinking for my next reel, I would branch out a bit and try a daiwa or shimano. I was looking at the chronarch, Curado, Tatula, and zillion reels.

Are these braking systems similiar? I studied them for a couple hours last night had a hard time comparing and I want a completely adjustable centrifugal brake without having to take apart the side plate and doing adjustments. 

The end result for me would be to put this on a medium powered rod for jerkbaits, with the capability of casting 1/4 oz hard baits with ease, and maybe even 1/8 oz. 

Posted

The shimanos are a little different in the fact you can control how many brake pins are activated, then use the outside dial to control the friction of the activated pins. With Abu the 6 pin brakes feels way over braked, and while that keeps it pretty backlash free I think the distance suffers. A guy over on TT took his revo Elite and replaced the 6 brake ring with the 4 brake ring from the premier and he said it casted much better. I also have the Revo Elite 8 and my Metanium definitely outcasts it.

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Posted

I think if you want a centrifugal system adjusted from the side plate without any need to open it, you'll have to look at Lews and Quantum. Shimano made some old 4X4s where you could adjust the pins with a dial located on the exterior of the side plate. Daiwa is all magnetic. All the adjustments are made with the brake dial, and on most newer reels there are 20 levels of adjustment. If you get a reel with an SV spool it won't be finicky at all. 

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Posted

The Shimano and Daiwa brakes systems are completely different in the way they work. "Completely adjustable from outside " and centrifugal don't go together. I don't find the adjustability feature of the new shimanos particularly useful but that's just me. The Daiwa system is magnetic but the inductor moves under centrifugal force which makes for a very linear and efficient brake force except at very low speed which is good for pitching (as with cent. ). 

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Posted
1 hour ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

The Shimano and Daiwa brakes systems are completely different in the way they work. "Completely adjustable from outside " and centrifugal don't go together. I don't find the adjustability feature of the new shimanos particularly useful but that's just me. The Daiwa system is magnetic but the inductor moves under centrifugal force which makes for a very linear and efficient brake force except at very low speed which is good for pitching (as with cent. ). 

I have the Aldebaran which requires manual adjustment. I don't find the exterior control to be useful.

 

:love-093:

Posted
17 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

I have the Aldebaran which requires manual adjustment. I don't find the exterior control to be useful.

 

:love-093:

Have you ever lost your side plate? I just feel like that's poor design to have to remove a side plate and make adjustments on an item meant to be used in the outdoors. 

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Posted

Set it and forget it. I NEVER adjust the brakes where there is any risk of loss.

 

:goggles-penguin:

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Posted

The problem I have is when going from say 1/4 oz cranks like a dt4 to a 3/8 oz crankbait. At least on my Revo SX, it always requires an adjustment which isn't as simple as just adjusting the magnetic brakes ( I know these are not centrifugal brakes.) And even still, it struggles to make those 1/4oz bait casts without overruns which would require me on a centrifugal system, to constantly tinker with the brakes- removing the side plate. Maybe it's just the reel that I'm using?

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Posted

Bait casting reels also have a spool tension knob to adjust how freely the spool turns on most reels. The combination of brake setting centrifical pin weights or magnetic force, the spool tension and your trained thumb results in further trouble free casting. If you rely on brakes alone you need to dedicate a reel to the lure weight or keep adjusting the brakes.

Learn to use your thumb, problem solved.

Tom

 

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Posted
1 hour ago, stk44 said:

Have you ever lost your side plate? I just feel like that's poor design to have to remove a side plate and make adjustments on an item meant to be used in the outdoors. 

Get a Shimano, you don´t have to remove the side plate to adjust the brakes, Shimano baitcasters don´t have removable side plates since the B series.

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Posted
21 hours ago, bootytrain said:

With Abu the 6 pin brakes feels way over braked, and while that keeps it pretty backlash free I think the distance suffers. A guy over on TT took his revo Elite and replaced the 6 brake ring with the 4 brake ring from the premier and he said it casted much better. I also have the Revo Elite 8 and my Metanium definitely outcasts it.

@bootytrain

Will you clarify what you mean here?  Why would you run all 6 brakes on an Abu Garcia?  I run three on my Ambassadeurs, and that's only because I don't use much spool tension at all.

I guess I'm not understanding what you're trying to do by running all 6 brake blocks.

Regards,

Josh

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Posted
1 hour ago, Josh Smith said:

@bootytrain

Will you clarify what you mean here?  Why would you run all 6 brakes on an Abu Garcia?  I run three on my Ambassadeurs, and that's only because I don't use much spool tension at all.

I guess I'm not understanding what you're trying to do by running all 6 brake blocks.

Regards,

Josh

Different strokes for different folks Josh, you run 3 he may need 6, I run 2 and sometimes none at all, just enough spool tension to stop the spool from moving sideways.

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Posted
On 2/6/2016 at 3:01 PM, stk44 said:

I am a big fan of the Revo MGX's braking system.  It allows for almost limitless adjustments. I was thinking for my next reel, I would branch out a bit and try a daiwa or shimano. I was looking at the chronarch, Curado, Tatula, and zillion reels.

Are these braking systems similiar? I studied them for a couple hours last night had a hard time comparing and I want a completely adjustable centrifugal brake without having to take apart the side plate and doing adjustments. 

The end result for me would be to put this on a medium powered rod for jerkbaits, with the capability of casting 1/4 oz hard baits with ease, and maybe even 1/8 oz. 

Just to clarify...the Shimano cover doesn't come off (on any of my Shimanos).  However, you must pull the side cover "off" to adjust brakes.  The cover won't be lost because it stays attached on one end.  You turn the release, pull cover out, swing it out of the way and make brake adjustments.  The side cover on a Helios Air comes completely off the reel to make centrifugal brake adjustments.  The cover could be dropped and lost if not careful.  I am not aware of any reel with only magnetic brakes that require the side cover to be removed.  All adjustments are made by the dial on the outside of the cover.

I have to take back that statement about all covers coming off a Shimano and staying attached on one end because I happen to have one of the models with the external adjustment, and have had no reason as of yet to remove the side cover.

For me getting down to 1/8 oz. requires a reel with different parameters than the norm.  Haven't tried that weight with any of the 4 reels you mentioned, but doubt I have the ability to cast that light with any of them...and I have all 4 in various models.  Possibly I could with a Curado 51E, but haven't tried that light yet...and may never as I'd rather grab a Daiwa once below 3/16 oz.

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Posted
On 2/7/2016 at 3:43 PM, roadwarrior said:

The cover on the Albedaran comes off.

 

:love22:

 

Unfortunately I don't have one, nor ever seen one.  :(  No doubt it is a reel I wouldn't mind having................if the price were right.  :D  Like you, once the brakes are set I see no need to change them unless moving to a situation like I have right now.  Fishing from the front of my brother-in-law's dinghy has me changing my backcast which resulted in some jerkiness and the necessity of adding more brakes to my reels to avoid overruns and backlashes......with the exception of my Primmus.

Posted

I have a revo premier gen 3 and not really getting as much distance as with other reels.  I'm running the brake dial in the 0 position.  So I'm wondering if it's possible to remove so brake shoes to get even less braking. It seems in the 0 position or min.  the reel is still being braked some because it never backlashes and casts decent but not far like the rest of my other reels.  Does anyone know a way to remove the brake shoes safely? 

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Posted
3 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

The cover on the Albedaran comes off.

 

:love22:

I guess the Aldebaran is not going to be my next Shimano.

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Posted
2 hours ago, cddan said:

I have a revo premier gen 3 and not really getting as much distance as with other reels.  I'm running the brake dial in the 0 position.  So I'm wondering if it's possible to remove so brake shoes to get even less braking. It seems in the 0 position or min.  the reel is still being braked some because it never backlashes and casts decent but not far like the rest of my other reels.  Does anyone know a way to remove the brake shoes safely? 

Don't try removing brake blocks. My guess is that the reel would benefit from s deep cleaning and bearing flush. Also don't minimize the tool the Rod and line play ( more than the reel ) 

Posted
7 hours ago, Josh Smith said:

@bootytrain

Will you clarify what you mean here?  Why would you run all 6 brakes on an Abu Garcia?  I run three on my Ambassadeurs, and that's only because I don't use much spool tension at all.

I guess I'm not understanding what you're trying to do by running all 6 brake blocks.

Regards,

Josh

The IVCB brakes on the MGX.  It's a flying arm system where the brake arms fly out and rub against the metal plate causing friction. The brake arms are always "on". You cannot deactivate any of the arms like with shimano's system. Now the arms have various lengths of travel. Some fly out more than others. So at a lower bake setting where the metal plate (that is raised and lowered by the outside dial) not all the arms come in contact with the plate so you have less braking friction. The higher the brake setting on the outside, the lower the plate comes down, it comes in contact with more brake arms causing more braking friction. With my revo elite the brakes have 6 arms, the MGX has 4 arms. I think that even at the lowest brake setting on my Elite there is contact with the brake plate so there is theoretically no zero brake setting. That's why it's hard to backlash but the distance isn't as good as I hoped. LEW'S has a copycat system to ABUs but the brake arms are different. My Lews Team Lite easily outcasts my Revo Elite. Possibly the shape of the arms has something to do with it.

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Posted
1 hour ago, PitchinJigz said:

I'd get the new Curado 70. It's going to be perfect for everything you want.

kinda fast for cranking i think

not great for all aplications

Posted
59 minutes ago, bootytrain said:

The IVCB brakes on the MGX.  It's a flying arm system where the brake arms fly out and rub against the metal plate causing friction. The brake arms are always "on". You cannot deactivate any of the arms like with shimano's system. Now the arms have various lengths of travel. Some fly out more than others. So at a lower bake setting where the metal plate (that is raised and lowered by the outside dial) not all the arms come in contact with the plate so you have less braking friction. The higher the brake setting on the outside, the lower the plate comes down, it comes in contact with more brake arms causing more braking friction. With my revo elite the brakes have 6 arms, the MGX has 4 arms. I think that even at the lowest brake setting on my Elite there is contact with the brake plate so there is theoretically no zero brake setting. That's why it's hard to backlash but the distance isn't as good as I hoped. LEW'S has a copycat system to ABUs but the brake arms are different. My Lews Team Lite easily outcasts my Revo Elite. Possibly the shape of the arms has something to do with it.

Thank you for the clarification.  For some reason I thought those had the 6-block system that that allows you to turn each block on or off.  I was wrong.

The IVCB is the same system as is found on the Morrum, then, correct?  (I am round reels only; low-profile just don't feel right to me.

Regards,

Josh

Posted
2 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Don't try removing brake blocks. My guess is that the reel would benefit from s deep cleaning and bearing flush. Also don't minimize the tool the Rod and line play ( more than the reel ) 

Thank you dvt.  I was looking at the arms a while back and they looked like they would just break if tampered with.  I have done a bearing flush etc. It casts reasonably well guess I was reaching for more.  It may have a bad bearing but it spins freely when soaked in acetone but much less after a drop of oil. 

From new it was never the best in casting distance perhaps by design. I will definitely try out other rod options.  

Posted
1 hour ago, crankzilla said:

kinda fast for cranking i think

not great for all aplications

You're throwing 1/8-1/4oz crankbaits on casting gear? That's not really ideal.

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Posted
13 hours ago, PitchinJigz said:

You're throwing 1/8-1/4oz crankbaits on casting gear? That's not really ideal.

what i was trying to say was that the curado 70 only comes in a fast 721 or 821 gear ratio i think the curado 200i would be more suitable for light weight crankbaits i personly like a slower gear ratio throwing crank baits

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