Crankbait rod question

[MDbassin]

Does the action of the rod really matter all that much with crankbaits? All the rods I own for bass fishing whether it be spinning or baitcaster are M-MH fast action rods but have read that a moderate action rod is good for cranking... Does it really make a difference? I was looking at Fenwick HMX rods also if anyone wanted to throw in there opinions on that? Could you give me any suggestions for a cranking rod max price range would be about $80 for the rod. Or if there are any good combos for cranking that would help also.

[junyer357]

The slower action with a sweeping motion hookset seems to work better for really for getting a good hookset for me.   Since ive began doing that and using slower action rods i feel like i have less fish get off after initial hookset. I prefer a medium rod for most cranks except a med-hvy for deeper divers. 

[Robert Riley]

The slower the action, the less likely you are to pull the hook out of the bass's mouth. It also makes it easier to keep the fish hook while bringing it to the boat. The action is the most important part. T

The power of the rod is second, matters as per the usual, just not as much as the action.

Lastly, I tend to stress this when I talk cranking sticks. In it comes to cranking sticks, sensitivity at it's least importance. Think about it, you're sitting there just cranking away, you're definitely gonna feel something. Just remember that I'm saying this relative to Jig and Worm rods, where sensitivity is of the utmost importance. (This is why my cranking sticks are Veritas, best $45 cranking stick I've ever used.)

[Puggz]

2 hours ago, Robert Riley said:

The slower the action, the less likely you are to pull the hook out of the bass's mouth. It also makes it easier to keep the fish hook while bringing it to the boat. The action is the most important part. T

The power of the rod is second, matters as per the usual, just not as much as the action.

Lastly, I tend to stress this when I talk cranking sticks. In it comes to cranking sticks, sensitivity at it's least importance. Think about it, you're sitting there just cranking away, you're definitely gonna feel something. Just remember that I'm saying this relative to Jig and Worm rods, where sensitivity is of the utmost importance. (This is why my cranking sticks are Veritas, best $45 cranking stick I've ever used.)

Exactly my experience as well.  I use a 7' Mojo Bass MH/MF for trolling and casting cranks.  Because crankbaits use small treble hooks its nice to have a rod that bends as the fish fights. Like a shock absorber.  Helps keep the smaller hooks "hooked up"

[smalljaw67]

In the mid 90s I was told that rods with more flex were good for cranking and I didn't buy into that at first but it didn't take but one trip to realize there was a lot of truth behind it. As for a good rod in your range, you happen to be in luck, go to FFO (Fisherman's Factory Outlet) and look under rods and then choose casting. Go down a little over half way on the page and you'll see Fenwick HMG GT72MFCB, this is the older version of my square bill rod that works great for most cranks that are in the shallow to mid depth range as it is rated for 1/4oz to 1oz lure weight. They list the rod as a fast action but it is the CB model so it is made for cranking, a lot of anglers like the older version as it has Fuji Alconite guides, but the main thing is it will work for you and since it is the old model it only costs $58.88, that is a steal!!!

[MDBowHunter]

A moderate tapered rod is the ticket, but I don't buy that sensitivity don't matter. My cranking rod is a St Croix avid MH/Mod and it has great sensitivity which I love. I can feel everything the baits doing and its sensitive enough to that when a fish gets close to the bait I can feel it in the action of the bait. It will all of a sudden feel like the bait stopped working then bam there it is. Same goes with my spinnerbait rod as soon as I feel the blades stop spinning I get ready for the bite. Somewhere on you tube is a video showing underwater hits on a crank bait, and you'd be surprised on how many times a bass engulfed an entire crank bait and spit it out before the angler even felt a strike.

[MDBowHunter]

Here it is, skip to the 3:00 mark:

 

 

[Hogsticker]

1 hour ago, MDBowHunter said:

A moderate tapered rod is the ticket, but I don't buy that sensitivity don't matter. My cranking rod is a St Croix avid MH/Mod and it has great sensitivity which I love. I can feel everything the baits doing and its sensitive enough to that when a fish gets close to the bait I can feel it in the action of the bait. It will all of a sudden feel like the bait stopped working then bam there it is. Same goes with my spinnerbait rod as soon as I feel the blades stop spinning I get ready for the bite. Somewhere on you tube is a video showing underwater hits on a crank bait, and you'd be surprised on how many times a bass engulfed an entire crank bait and spit it out before the angler even felt a strike.

Yep yep. It's nice to know when you pick up a hitchhiker such as grass or a leaf. 

[WIGuide]

The action of a rod definitely does make a difference with crankbaits! Since making the switch to moderate action the number of fish lost on a crankbait has wend down significantly. I'm not saying it's 100% but it's up there, and it seems like the few that I do lose are the little 7-10 inchers that jump. I would also have to agree that sensitivity matters in a crankin' stick. I throw cranks around a lot of cover, and I don't want the rod to just load, because it'll do the same on a stump and I don't want to set the hook on one of those!