Knowing your Brakes

[Robert Riley]

So I've been doing a lot of research into reels in the last couple days. We all know that some rods have centrifugal brakes and others have magnetic and some have both! So what's the scoop? 

I have a Lew's SuperDuty and a Tpro, so I may just check later haha.

EDIT: Secondary question, getting a new reel for a jerkbait setup. Tournament MB or Tournament Lite? Rod is a Dobyns Champion D684cb.

[Molay1292]

Don't forget to do some research on one of the more complex braking systems available, Daiwa's Magforce systems.

[OnthePotomac]

The magnet feature has been added on some reels to fine tune casting various lures.

[bass raider]

10 hours ago, Robert Riley said:

We all know that some rods have centrifugal brakes and others have magnetic and some have both!

I've never used a rod that had brakes on it!! ?

[Raul]

What´s the "scoop" on what ?

[kickerfish1]

19 minutes ago, Raul said:

What´s the "scoop" on what ?

Exactly, your supposed question number one is unclear. 

[rippin-lips]

Search on bassresource or google and look up magnetic verse centrifugal brakes. There should be enough reading material to last you until spring. Here's one to get you started. 

 

https://japantackle.com/tackle_topics/brake_system.htm

[aquaholik]

That's a great article. Oldies but goodies. Daiwa magnetic cast control have not improved much since the introduction of Magforce V in the TD-X. That reel was a casting machine well ahead of it's time. Now we have Magforce 3D which essentially moves the magnet closer or farther away from the inductor of the Magforce V or Z spool. Great idea but in reality, not much of an improvement to the overall casting distance, unless you are casting 2 oz lead all day long or need to cast a 1/16 oz jig into the wind.

[Robert Riley]

2 hours ago, kickerfish1 said:

Exactly, your supposed question number one is unclear. 

What's the scoop on mag vs cent. When is one better than the other, does it matter, etc.

 

[Raul]

27 minutes ago, Robert Riley said:

What's the scoop on mag vs cent. When is one better than the other, does it matter, etc.

 

None is better than the other, both do the same in a different way, centrifugal uses weights, magnetic uses magnets, in the final run it doesn´t matter, you want to know which part of the braking system is the most important one ? there you go -----> , your thumb, knowing how to set the brakes properly and how much skill you got in controlling the spool rotation.

[Robert Riley]

I'm fishing a club tournament this weekend, I finally have a chance to test which I like more, although I don't have a reel with purely magnetic brakes. (I think haha)

[new2BC4bass]

5 hours ago, aquaholik said:

That's a great article. Oldies but goodies. Daiwa magnetic cast control have not improved much since the introduction of Magforce V in the TD-X. That reel was a casting machine well ahead of it's time. Now we have Magforce 3D which essentially moves the magnet closer or farther away from the inductor of the Magforce V or Z spool. Great idea but in reality, not much of an improvement to the overall casting distance, unless you are casting 2 oz lead all day long or need to cast a 1/16 oz jig into the wind.

Some get better distance, some don't.  I don't.  However, I'm not sure casting distance was the reason for the Magforce 3D.  Magforce 3D exerts some braking even at its lowest setting...Longcast and zero on the dial.  It is the only braking system I can cast with zero brakes and not wind up with a professional backlash..  That is the biggest advantage of the braking system for me.  Also engaging the spool by closing the hood on the T3s is something I grew to like very quickly.

[kickerfish1]

6 hours ago, Robert Riley said:

What's the scoop on mag vs cent. When is one better than the other, does it matter, etc.

 

Keep reading as there are far more breaking systems than just these two.

Mag force Z

Mag force V

Mag 3D

Air Brake

VBS

SVS

Dual breaking

Basic centrifugal

Basic Magnetic

DC (Digital Control)

The list goes on. Some of these are variations of your standard magnetic and centrifugal breaking systems. Which is best? Like Raul said, that is up to you to figure out. Generally guys that voluntarily fish all one brand of reel do so because they heavily favor one breaking system over the other. All will cast baits from point A to point B.

[Robert Riley]

I'm just interested in Mag vs Cent to be honest, I have a deal at Lew's and that's what they have. 

 

[kickerfish1]

I don't fish Lews. Good luck

[Raul]

8 hours ago, Robert Riley said:

I'm just interested in Mag vs Cent to be honest, I have a deal at Lew's and that's what they have. 

 

In the final run, unless you want us to discuss by splitting hairs about which one is "better" , both do the same, I have reels with centrifugal ( Shimano ), I have reels with magnetic ( Daiwa and Abu ), I can switch from one to another without any problem. 

[WIGuide]

As others have said, two different ways to skin a cat. I do know that when they are combined, the centrifugal brakes do a better job at slowing the spool at a higher RPM (aka front part of the cast) and the magnetics do more of the work feathering the second half of the cast. 

[aquaholik]

On 2/2/2016 at 5:49 PM, new2BC4bass said:

Some get better distance, some don't.  I don't.  However, I'm not sure casting distance was the reason for the Magforce 3D.  Magforce 3D exerts some braking even at its lowest setting...Longcast and zero on the dial.  It is the only braking system I can cast with zero brakes and not wind up with a professional backlash..  That is the biggest advantage of the braking system for me.  Also engaging the spool by closing the hood on the T3s is something I grew to like very quickly.

I thought the longcast mode, which moves the magnet farther from the spool inductor, was to allow longer cast with heavier more aerodynamic lure. I played around with the long cast mode and with a zara spook jr, it was dangerous below a 3 setting on the magnetic dial. I thought it would be one hell of a backlash at zero setting unless my thumb is constantly on the spool.

I bought a brand new T3 for under $150 shipped last week. Kind of glad I went into a cave the last 10 years and haven't bought anything since the Alpha Ito edition. It was a lot of reel for $150. Smooth drag, clicking drag and cast control, and generally a very smooth reel. The reel is fine when I spooled it.

But I can not work a topwater or weightless Zoom flukes without the line bunching up to one side.

If I reel it under tension, it's fine.

Then I watched what happened when I twitch a topwater and reel. For some reason, even though the line was seated correctly in the T-wing guide, every other turn, the line guide would stop 1/4 inch from reaching the right side.

I wasn't getting the long distance improvement with the T-wing and as much as I want to keep the reel at that price point, I couldn't put up with the defective line lay.

[new2BC4bass]

I haven't tried a topwater lure with any of my T3s yet.  Don't have one with me to check.  However, stopping 1/4 inch short doesn't seem right.  I am surprised the line lays so well on the spool with that problem.  Could there be someting wrong with that paricular reel?

[aquaholik]

It could very well be the combination of the Nanofil and extreme angle of the line guide. Loose coil, stiff line,  and the extreme angle prevents a proper line lay. If I keep my hand on the line and keep a tight tension, then I it lays it fine. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I think if you take a little line off the spool you'll see an improvement. The improved casting distance claims are marketing that can not be quantified. I have a Tatula that casts very well but I attribute that to over all Daiwa quality not t wing etc.