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Posted

I use mono...I want a little stretch in the line when fighting a fish and also a little more give when the fish bites to eat the lure.

 

Braid has zero stretch and you have a higher rate of pulled hooks and a shorter opportunity of the fish eating the bait.

  • Super User
Posted

Paul Elias, Mark Davis, & David Fritts all us 12# mono!

  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, Catt said:

Paul Elias, Mark Davis, & David Fritts all us 12# mono!

12lb mono is the way to go! 

Posted

I have braid and fluoro setups that I tie direct to lure with no leader.  Main things to keep in mind is the depth you're trying to reach since braid wants to float and fluoro will sink, and, braid has no stretch so you might pull the crankbait away from the fish if you get a strike.

Posted

There are compensating factors. For instance, if you are using a slower action rod and/or backing off the drag, there's no reason you couldn't use braid. 

That beng said, I certainly do prefer mono or FC. Currently using 12# Sufix Siege for all my cranking needs. 

Posted

I'm not a sponsored pro angler and I don't have a specialized rods for every technique, so I use braid as my mainline for all of my fishing. Crankbaits, topwaters, jigs,  ect. That said I will always have a FC leader tied on (unless im fishing frogs), especially in clear to stained water. I like braid because it lasts longer and I don't have to worry about breaking off my lures in a snag as often.

You definitely don't want to do any major league hooksets without any slack in the no stretch line on crankbaits. However hard you set that hook is going to pull on the other end, so I have learned to keep those hooks sharp and just lean into the fish and keep them pinned when using cranks. The only time you really want to drive the hooks home on braid is if you're using jigs or hollow body frogs with big stout hooks.

Of course if you have the means to get specific lines for different techniques then i'd recommend FC for cranks since it has some stretch and will last longer than mono.

  • Super User
Posted

I use Mono with a medium action rod.I get way better hook ups with that setup.

 

  • Super User
Posted

You can use braid if you like. I've thrown them on braid before, but I'd rather throw them on mono or fluoro. I'd go with either 10 or 12 lb test of either. 

  • Like 1
Posted

10# or 12# mono is the way to go. I have using Sunline Natural but I might try Seaguar Senshi. I can use 15# test but has a dia. of .012.

  • Super User
Posted

Not really, but line diameter can effect maximum depth.

 

:winter-146:

  • Like 1
Posted

I use a glass rod with a really good bend to it, so 10# FC works great for me

Posted

I use braid for fishing in thick cover.

Floro for texas rigged plastics & jerk baits

12lb mono for crank baits.   You need a little stretch and a sideways sweeping hook set works best for me

Posted

First off, I don't use braid for the reason others have mentioned. You will increase your chances of loosing fish in my opinion. If you watch the pros, I don't think you'll see any of them use it on a crankbait either but, people have their preferences.

This is a good topic however so I'll give my 2 cents.

Yes you can get away with most any mono or flouro given you keep your diameters small enough to enable good action and proper diving depth of the crankbait. But let's get a little more technical by starting of with some facts about crankbaits and line types. Note, we're talking about lipped cranks.

Smaller shallower diving crankbaits (i.e,Bandit 100's, 200's) are more prone to reduced action and diving depth with larger diameter lines. Line types such as mono and flourcarbon will adjust action and diving depth also. Flouro will enable sharper, crisper action than mono due to less stretch and will make a crankbait dive deeper because flouro is more dense causing it to sink.

Larger deeper diving crankbaits (i.e, 8 and 10 XD's, 6th Sense 500 Crush) are less prone to reduced action with larger diameter lines but still diving depth can be adjusted with use of smaller/larger line diameters and types.

*With these two facts, we can fill in the rest of what's in between.

The beauty of this is that we can fine tune crankbait patterns. We can adjust depth and action.

A couple of examples:
There was a tournament where Rick Clunn was using 17# test mono fishing a big shallow diving squarebill crankbait around standing timber and stumps. He was wearing out some big prespawn bass using a light powered glass rod. He used heavier line to because of the cover he was fishing and the size fish he was catching. The larger crankbait's action was less affected due to the size but I'm sure the main factor was the fish were biting it. I believe he went to a lighter power rod to compensate for line size to help keep fish from throwing the hook.

Mark Rose loves to come to KY Lake and tie on a 6XD with 12# flourocarbon. A few years back (before the giant crankbaits)some fish had dropped down a little deeper than what that set up would reach. He dropped his diameter down to 8# Flouro to catch his fish that were holding to rock piles out on the ledges. He also had to use a lighter powered rod to compensate for the lighter line. It helped keep the fish from breaking his line.

With that said, this is a small guide to where I "start" with what I fish. I also use a lighter powered rod to help compensate for the less stretch flourocarbon:

Small square bills- 10-12# flourocarbon

Small deep divers- 8-10# flourocarbon

Med size square bills- 10-14# flourocarbon

Med size deep divers- 8-10# flourocarbon

Large square bills- 12-15# flourocarbon

Large deep divers- 8-12# flourocarbon

Giant deep divers- 12-17# flourocarbon

 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I use braid for everything.  Like FC, but way too costly to put a 100yrds on and change it out every few weeks.  So I use leaders.  Crank on 20lb braid with 10-15lb FC leaders.  Haven't had any problems pulling hooks, but then I also fish lighter drags.  Also when using squarebills and lipless baits, it's easer to clear the bait of grass with braid since there isn't any stretch.  Softer rods also lend themselves to braid and the sensitivity of braid I can tell what my baits doing and don't have to worry about getting bit at the end of the cast and not getting a good hookset.  Is this setup for everyone......probably not.  I think the thinner 20lb braid lets me keep a fuller spool which results in a more consistant retrieve and the smaller dia also lets me get the bait down to depth and if needed be able to fish a little heavier leader such as 15-17lb fc in some areas.  Just my preference. But if you're a "snap" caster and aren't used to fishing braid you probably aren't going to be succesful as you will end up shockng the braid resulting in breakoffs and frusration.  Then blaming the braid since it's not as forgiving as the other two.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I use braid for everything. I upgrade my trebles to 2x strong, and fish cranks on fast action rods. I, of coarse , am the odd man out here, but it works and works well for me.

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