advice on buying a bass boat

[Cboogie]

hey all,

im looking to get a bass boat in a few years, my price range is about 15,000. ive seen some nice low and mid 2000's triton and rangers for 10-20,000. a background on myself is that ive been bass fishing for 8 years now, been a coangler with ABA, and have won a few tournaments from the back of the boat. I think im a pretty good fisherman (or I would like to think so) but I have NO idea on what im doing with boats. is there anyone who could give me info on buying or even a website, video that explains the mechanics? I wouldn't know the first thing wrong with a boat if something were to happen to the outboard, etc. im really trying to learn about boat mechanics, operation, and general info on buying. what kind of questions to ask, what are "too many hours" on it. I do not feel confident buying a bass boat if I don't understand pretty well.

[J._Bricker]

The good news Cboogie, is by your own admission you have plenty of time to make an informed decision and I believe this forum can help. If you don't have friends with boats that you can ask questions, joining a bass club might be a good option. It would allow you ride in different boats, let you experience different layouts and options, ask questions of the boats owners, and hopefully learn how to operate a boat safely. Hope this helps a little bit, just remember the "best" boat is the one you can afford.... 

[Fishing Rhino]

First things first.

Take a safe boating course.  You'll learn the "rules of the road", what the various navigation buoys and markers mean, and you'll learn about what safety items you should/must have on your boat.  You'll also learn some important things about boat handling, and how to safely acquire experience at the helm.

[BassnChris]

4 hours ago, Fishing Rhino said:

First things first.

Take a safe boating course.  You'll learn the "rules of the road", what the various navigation buoys and markers mean, and you'll learn about what safety items you should/must have on your boat.  You'll also learn some important things about boat handling, and how to safely acquire experience at the helm.

X2

took a boat safety course free at Bass Pro. That is one of the places my state holds those classes.

 

[Robeng]

Read topics in Boating Magazine online.  Dont forget your tow vehicle that it can handle load.  Motor choices is another area.  Outboard is easiest n cheapest to service.  Take for test ride.  You can always pay a boat mechanic to check out your boat and trailer.  Dont forget to checknout trailer.   Lights, wheel bearings, brakes if applicable, bunk guides, winch, jack, rollers etc.     There are plenty of articles and checklists on line for education n consideration.  I spent many hours learning, and checking out boats.   If u have a friend knowledgeable thats best. You can also go to a boat sales store n ask questions as if you are interested in new boat.   Good luck.  

[Further North]

It is always - IMO - worth the money to have a disinterested pro check out prospective boats if you can work it out.

We all get a little...focused...when we're looking at a new rig...imagining ourselves fishing on our new acquisition...we might tend to kinda gloss over a few things.

[gulfcaptain]

Boat, how old, look in the lockers, hardware, batteries, condition.  Get in it, move around.  Feel for soft spots in the deck that may be weak spots.  Trailer, bunk boards, condition.  Is it single or tandem....tags, are they lifetime tags on the trailer?  Motor....size, prop, condition, how many hrs?  Where was it serviced last, ask if you can see the service records.  Test run the boat......Run it with a load, live wells full and a friend to go along with you as well as the owner.  See what it does.  When you have it on the water get up and move around and see how stable it is. What extras are on it?  Is it going to be a project boat or is it ready to fish. Some dealers may have older boats for sale.  ALL USED BOAT PRICES ARE NEGOTIABLE.  They don't make money on them sitting there.  I just bought mine (2000 Champion)  and after the extras I added to it (2 7" chart/fish units, 12' Talon, Lowrance 1-point gps reciever...they gave me a 5" HDS Lowrance GPS unit as well for free) came out to almost the same price it was listed at without the extras.  Also had them remount the motor bracket as I didn't like the sillycone they used on the thru-bolts and had them remount with 3M's 4200.

[Cboogie]

thanks for in info so far, ill check out the boating magazine online. I unfortunately do not have a buddy who knows a lot about boats. if anyone wants to give more input it will be much appreciated.

[stfreed]

My advice is to start on the small side.  Don't jump into a 21' bass boat with lots of things to go wrong.  If you start out with a smaller Tracker or such and get the feel of it you can always "trade up" down the road.  My path was 12' john boat with 6 horse motor, 15 foot fisher marine with 7hp and 20 hp merc that I switched out depending on the body of water I was fishing, then on to a 18.5' Javelin, and now my new Z119c Ranger.  Each step gave me some trade in value and to be honest I wish I had my old Fisher Marine back to use as my little lake boat.  :-)

[Choporoz]

 

Check out Sam's post in this thread.  Very good checklist of things to look for/keep in mind.

[Logan S]

Honestly, I think the best thing you can do is start in an aluminum bass boat.  Something in the 17 or 18 foot range with a 50 or 75hp outboard depending on the boat.  It not the most popular advice, but it's the advice I give to every first time boat owner.  It's not only easier to learn in an AL rig, it's cheaper to learn too.  

If you could already operate a boat and knew the in's and out's of basic maintenance/towing/navigation/etc...I'd say go for the full size.  But with little to no boating experience I'd strongly consider something like a 17' AL rig as a starter boat.  I'm not saying it's impossible or that you won't be able to handle it...Just friendly advice.  FWIW, I started in a 12' john boat - then a 17' Tracker - then to my current 20' Stratos.  If I could do it all over again I wouldn't change a thing, despite all the tournaments I fished out of the Tracker wishing I had more range/storage/speed.  

On any used boat, check the compression before signing on the dotted line.  Either do it yourself, have a 3rd party do it, or have the shop/seller do it in front of you.  It's easy and pretty quick, shouldn't hold the sale up.  Don't overlook the trailer condition either, rust and/or flaking paint are signs of trouble down the road.  

[Robeng]

Heed gulfcaptain and logan advice.  Great advice.  I agree with smaller and aluminum boat.  

[FlipSide]

pm sent.

[Cboogie]

thanks all.

I was given the advice to start at small cheaper boats and move up but since im in the military now and getting out soon and planning to start fishing for college, TBF, hopefully FLW as soon as possible I plan on just jumping the gun  and praying.

[Airman4754]

No matter what you get your value is going to be 80/20ish motor/boat. The motor is so much more important than anything else. If your motor is a turd, your boat is a turd, period. A brand new 21' boat with a crap motor is a floating barge. 

Make sure they took proper care of the motor. Impeller and spark plugs every two years, lower end oil, fuel filter, and air filter every year, poppet valve and thermostats every three or four years, the correct oil. If you see they are running blue TCW3 in a DFI engine that can lead to a lot of injector/carbon build up problems. Are they running ethanol in it, are they running fuel additives, etc. Then of course get a compression test done. Anything under 600 hours isn't a huge deal if they took care of it. You don't want a motor that has been running hot or dirty. 

[thomas15]

15K should buy a lot of boat so don't be in a hurry, there are plenty of them to choose from. Almost every small boat including Bass Boats have foam under the deck to add boyancy and strength. If water gets past the floor it may water log the foam. A glass boat has wood in the transom and stringers. If the foam is wet the transom and stringers will rot. Some aluminum boats also have wood but most today have little if any. Water in the foam at the least will add weight to the boat. A good marine surveyor will look for this condition. A surveyor is like the person you hire to inspect a home before you buy it.

If someone selling a used boat states that the floor is new, look somewhere else.

[warrior1]

On January 22, 2016 at 9:13 AM, Cboogie said:

thanks all.

I was given the advice to start at small cheaper boats and move up but since im in the military now and getting out soon and planning to start fishing for college, TBF, hopefully FLW as soon as possible I plan on just jumping the gun  and praying.

i started with 17'6 triton with a 60HP Mercury.  I upgraded the TM and front FF and it works fine.  I've had it for almost 2 years now and it's been perfect as a learner boat and still can't see upgrading yet.  Most of the lakes in Southern CA have 35 MPH speed limit so I didn't need much more and I've taken it to Havasu, Meade, Delta with no problems.  I'm heading into my 3rd year with my local bass club and made it to our Tournament of Champions my first two years, so having the slowest and cheapest boat in the club hasn't hurt me.   Good luck

[tomustang]

1 hour ago, ClackerBuzz said:

gonna buy my first boat this season also 

What platforms are you looking into?

[ClackerBuzz]

On 1/26/2016 at 4:13 PM, tomustang said:

What platforms are you looking into?

16-17' no center seat jon w/ 40-60 hp tiller 4 stroke EFI.  something along the lines of a Crestliner 1756 retriever.  from what I've read those engines are the most beginner/maintenance friendly. i don't fish tournys so i don't need a live well.  i know duck hunters prefer that layout but i think all that space will suit me.  also I'm going to be mooring all season so for now I can get away with my 4 cyl honda 'tow vehicle

I have a health fear of being a new boater b/c I don't know the first thing about navigation, maintenance, docking etc.  the only thing I have confidence in is launching b/c i have experience with 18-24 ft trucks, and also backing up trailers.  a smaller tiller boat seems like a good place to start.  i would buy used from a forum member so i'm gonna post this spring.

[tomustang]

16 hours ago, ClackerBuzz said:

16-17' no center seat jon w/ 40-60 hp tiller 4 stroke EFI.  something along the lines of a Crestliner 1756 retriever.  from what I've read those engines are the most beginner/maintenance friendly. i don't fish tournys so i don't need a live well.  i know duck hunters prefer that layout but i think all that space will suit me.  also I'm going to be mooring all season so for now I can get away with my 4 cyl honda 'tow vehicle

I have a health fear of being a new boater b/c I don't know the first thing about navigation, maintenance, docking etc.  the only thing I have confidence in is launching b/c i have experience with 18-24 ft trucks, and also backing up trailers.  a smaller tiller boat seems like a good place to start.  i would buy used from a forum member so i'm gonna post this spring.

 

 

I was in your shoes several years ago, looking at an aluminum jon/smaller motor/beater more or less  typical 'first' boat. it really is a beginner stage, and I found out quickly that it's a short learning curve no matter what boat you buy. Luckily I found a full sized glass boat with a bigger engine on the back for a stupid low price, people cant even tell its older until I tell them it is, I bypassed the beginner stage and took it cautiously until I was comfortable, which seemed like no time at all. It came with a strong 101lb trolling motor on it so I was able to explorer more water before it hit shallows.

 

Since you're mooring and you choices are similar to a Crestliner 1756 retriever, you might be able to find a decent used tracker 175 txw for relatively cheap. It'll have more room to expand and get more mileage out of it until you move on.

 

If you have any questions about maint., docking, nav etc shoot me a pm.