Molay1292 Posted February 6, 2016 Posted February 6, 2016 On 1/16/2016 at 8:35 AM, Paul Roberts said: I've posted a bunch over the years on back-reeling, as explanation, then almost always in defense. I've never opened a back-reeling thread. Drag may be simpler -maybe. Bottom line I guess is that I just don't want to turn control of my fish over to a mindless stack of washers. Here's another (I must have missed): No need to defend your preference with me. I was asking as it is something that I do not practice. I keep my drag systems clean and in good shape and they work for me, but I am always up for learning a better way. 1 Quote
corn-on-the-rob Posted February 6, 2016 Posted February 6, 2016 On spinning rods, I keep it just shy of locked for the hookset, then loosen accordingly on the fly if the fish is large enough. BC's I tighten just shy of locked and am always ready to thumb a free spool if the pull is hard enough. It is important to note that I run relatively heavy line for my spinning set ups, I just always feel that I never want my drag to slip too much on a hookset unless I am using very light line. Quote
BassNBarry Posted February 6, 2016 Posted February 6, 2016 Appreciate your drag-set advice for your spinning rig. I use 12-lb fc and a medium-power rod and never had a fish break off. On the flip side, I've missed getting better hook sets because of lighter drag and less power in the rod. I'll tighten the drag and see how I like it. No problem with my BC's. Would like to hear any other advice for setting drag on a spinning rig. Quote
68camaro Posted February 6, 2016 Posted February 6, 2016 On January 15, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said: The rule of thumb is 1/3 of line rating (mono equivalent diameter for braid). I don't see any reason to adjust for technique . But how do you set the drag for specific weight? For instance if I am fishing with 12 lb line, how do I set it for 4 lbs? I use Lews and Curado. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted February 6, 2016 Super User Posted February 6, 2016 I was watching MLF recently and saw those pro's spinning reel's drag's buzzing with each 1+lb fish. Boyd Duckett (I believe it was) was reeling while the drag was turning! I don't get it. Back-reeling is SO much more efficient. It's less mindless, but mindless is not necessarily better. Just MHO. 1 Quote
Super User gulfcaptain Posted February 6, 2016 Super User Posted February 6, 2016 7 minutes ago, Paul Roberts said: I was watching MLF recently and saw those pro's spinning reel's drag's buzzing with each 1+lb fish. Boyd Duckett (I believe it was) was reeling while the drag was turning! I don't get it. Back-reeling is SO much more efficient. It's less mindless, but that's not necessarily better. Just MHO. I used to back reel, but the reels I have now don't have that option so using the drag is the only option and when using smaller hooks with braid and lighter FC, a light drag helps not pull the hook or brake them off. But I understand your point as well. It does come in handly. 1 Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted February 6, 2016 Posted February 6, 2016 3 hours ago, 68camaro said: But how do you set the drag for specific weight? For instance if I am fishing with 12 lb line, how do I set it for 4 lbs? I use Lews and Curado. You can attach a spring scale or known weight to the end of the line and adjust accordingly. I just go by feel. It's not all that critical to get too scientific. 2 Quote
Josh Smith Posted February 6, 2016 Posted February 6, 2016 I recall losing fish back in the day of fiber drags. I'd adjust on the fly and it would stick and the line would break. Today's drags are a blessing that this latest generation may not fully appreciate. Even the large drag stars would have been a great addition to some reels of yesterday. It's hard to appreciate back reeling, I think, if you've never had to. And for some, changing techniques to adapt to new technology can lead to lost fish. 2016 is my fourth year with the new drags, and I am just beginning to fully trust them. Regards, Josh Quote
Global Moderator Bluebasser86 Posted February 7, 2016 Global Moderator Posted February 7, 2016 On 1/15/2016 at 0:46 AM, juicebass said: Hey guys, Looking to get a look at what drags should be set on a baitcast reel and spinning reel for specific techniques. For example, I've heard a lot about setting the drag full for frog fishing. I've also seen that different applications require different settings. Can you share? Specifically looking for drag settings on baitcast for- 1-frogs 2-jigs 3-plastics 4-plastic craws 5-spinnerbaits 6-crank baits 7-swim bait 8-swim jig 9- top water 10-buzzbait Spinning set up for- 1- wacky rig 2 - drop shot 3- carolina rig 4- Etc... Looking to get some insight into what drags to set. Most times i feel lost on how tight to set the drag. Would love to learn some rules of thumb when it comes to specific techniques. Thanks!! I keep it simple, lock it down, then use the thumb bar or back reel as needed. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted February 7, 2016 Super User Posted February 7, 2016 About 2 1/2 lbs for everything. 1 Quote
Super User Jeff H Posted February 7, 2016 Super User Posted February 7, 2016 On 2/6/2016 at 10:52 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said: I just go by feel. It's not all that critical to get too scientific. My method as well. Like Bluebasser, I also lock some of mine down, or pretty close to it. Jerkbaits and crankbaits I might run a bit looser but they would not be considered loose. I do quite a bit of backreeling with spinning rigs too. Quote
Fishinthefish Posted February 7, 2016 Posted February 7, 2016 I set my drag to 50% of the line strength of the line that I have on for hooksets (or rough guess of that at least). On my go to rod, I have 22lb worth of drag, but only 30lb braid test on it. So I set the drag for between 12-17 pounds of drag that I hand test the strength of. I'm never worried about drag per technique because a hook set is a hookset, it's more so in the rod matching the type of hook and bait you're using than the drag being set properly, unless it's too loose. Just my amateur opinion. Quote
JGBassinAL Posted February 8, 2016 Posted February 8, 2016 I just do it by feel except for frogs, punching, or pitching in laydowns then I tighten it all the way down. Honestly, the only time I need my drag is if the fish is away from the boat. When the fish is by the boat I press down the clutch and thumb the spool and control the drag myself. Then you don't have to worry about your drag failing. Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted February 8, 2016 Posted February 8, 2016 Releasing the clutch under load is hard on a reel and much more likely to damage something than the chances of drag failure which is nil in any but the most neglected bass reel. 5 Quote
Super User Goose52 Posted February 8, 2016 Super User Posted February 8, 2016 Some of the comments about back-reeling and not trusting drags on either spinning or BC reels, along with recent threads about folks disdaining BC reel braking systems and maintaining that only an "educated thumb" is necessary...make me think of Fred Flintstone's car with the hole in the floor. Don't need fancy technology - just stick your feet on the ground to stop the car... Just sayin'... 4 Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted February 8, 2016 Super User Posted February 8, 2016 I used to back reel with a spinner - back when drags were prone to sticking. Don't do it any more, have felt I needed to. Routinely have respectable Brown bass pull the drag pretty good with 4 & 6 lb leader. Don't know what I set it at exactly, just know it's pretty light. The only manual manipulation I may do to a spinner is to put a finger on the spool just to slow a good run. Additionally some of the by catch up here is of sufficient size to really test ones drag & fish fighting skills. I rarely have the need to adjust a casting reels drag after the days initial setting. But I would if I needed to. A-Jay Quote
FSUFish Posted February 8, 2016 Posted February 8, 2016 Locked down drags and 50# braid? The fish don't stand a chance! I'd rather have the tug of the fish than horsing him in. I do 25% of line test. Never had a fish break me off. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted February 8, 2016 Super User Posted February 8, 2016 The talk about current drag technology is not where I'm coming from on back-reeling. It's the whole idea of just who is giving out line and when. I don't want my rigs giving line when I don't want them too. There are advantages to back-reeling in many places, but in bass fishing it's esp noticeable when pulling fish out of heavy cover. You need to have their head pointing at you and coming in. Let them get a shoulder against you and you are then fighting tail. Winching with a locked down drag is the best way. But... there's a risk there, esp if you just happen to not be using 65# braid at the moment. People handle this different ways. With a casting rig, lock down, and free-spool when necessary. Or, clamp a thumb down and pull. But then you reach the top of your pull, you gotta reel, and the drag gives! That 6 inches of line your reel (not you) just gave allows that fish to turn his head down and the shoulders and tail follow. Wrestle him back up again, and again, until he tires, or buries. In some places, you don't want them to bury. In milfoil we have to go over and dig them out. In wood we may have to wait and let them un-wrap themselves. In Chara (stuffs like steel wool) you have to wait them out. In rip-rap, you can try changing angles -and will have to re-tie- but you may be better off waiting them out. I've even had bass swim down into muskrat burrows! When using drag, you just have to be sure you're appropriately, possibly over-, gunned. With drag, if you go heavy enough it shouldn't matter all that much, you've got an efficient winch. Go to 65# braid and you're set. With spinning tackle, it's a different story; You can lock down and back-reel, if needed. Most often, it's not needed. If I find I didn't lock my drag down sufficiently, I'm apt to let out a stream of cusswords that can damage ear drums within a mile radius. I give line when I deem it appropriate. "What the heck (#%#@^) is that drag doing anyway -thinking for me!??" I don't want my drag slipping -ever. I know how deep a bend in my rod the line can take. If I feel it's weakened I can back off. Line gets short -at boatside- I can back off. When I need to I can max things out. Seeing anglers fumbling with their drags (remember rear-drags, and "fightin' drags?), or setting so light the drag gives with every little turn of that fish's head, makes me... shake my head. Just why Boyd Duckett's fish were being given line, and twisting up his line, is lost on me. Some technology. BTW, fish don't have to be dog-tired to give up. Tugging and pulling and giving keeps them motivated, and their fins dug in. I decide when my reel gives line. And I'm darn stingy with it. I have no interest in talking anyone into back-reeling. At the same time, I can't see allowing a mindless stack of washers fight my fish for me. Thanks, but I don't need the "protection". 1 Quote
Super User J Francho Posted February 10, 2016 Super User Posted February 10, 2016 I get the technique - it works. I can't do it with a spinning reel, but I have no choice with a centrepin. It's actually better than any drag system, when you have a 8-12# steelhead on with a 4# leader. You're in control of the pressure. I get it, just cannot for the life of me get on board with bass fishing, lol. Try it, see what happens. You might like it. Some very good drop shotters use it. Rich Zaleski <cough-cough>... 1 Quote
Super User WIGuide Posted February 10, 2016 Super User Posted February 10, 2016 I try to keep it pretty simple. For my flippin', pitchin' and froggin' rods I don't lock them down, but they're pretty close to max drag. For treble hook baits I keep them nice and loose. Loose enough that the drag may slightly slip on a hard hookset. Everything else I have set pretty much right in the middle. I keep it tight enough that it won't budge on a hookset, but light enough that if my line is weakened I'm not going to break off before the drag gives. My system isn't exact as I don't set them with a scale, but use a hand to check. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted February 11, 2016 Super User Posted February 11, 2016 On 2/10/2016 at 8:14 AM, J Francho said: I get the technique - it works. I can't do it with a spinning reel, but I have no choice with a centrepin. It's actually better than any drag system, when you have a 8-12# steelhead on with a 4# leader. You're in control of the pressure. I get it, just cannot for the life of me get on board with bass fishing, lol. Try it, see what happens. You might like it. Some very good drop shotters use it. Rich Zaleski <cough-cough>... John, I came to understand "complete control" fly-fishing for stripers and trout in open water with a single action (1:1) fly reel. I found if I stayed smooth -no tugging or popping on the fish- they'd not really know what's up and I could reel a fish straight in (just like you need to do with bass in cover) headfirst right to my feet or boatside. I came to call winching unsuspecting fish in (and quickly) "torque-reeling". Then of course I had a green fish on a short-line, but that's not the point. Tugging, pumping, giving line, alarms the fish and they run away! Fighting a neutrally buoyant critter is all about shoulders, flanks and tail. Keep their head pointed at you and they have no choice. I learned to whip big trout on light lines (like you describe) -including some approaching 10lbs on 1lb Trilene- by lulling them in, via "torque-reeling". Do I do this with bass? No, not necessary much of the time, except for those in dense cover described above. However, I do not give line that doesn't need to be given. How often do bass need line given -at least an amount that your rod and arm length cannot give? If really needed -like the line maxes on a really large one, or the fish isn't hooked well on a small gapped hook, etc..- I can easily make a half-turn back and give. Quote
Florida Cracker2 Posted February 11, 2016 Posted February 11, 2016 On 2/8/2016 at 11:53 PM, FSUFish said: Locked down drags and 50# braid? The fish don't stand a chance! I'd rather have the tug of the fish than horsing him in. I do 25% of line test. Never had a fish break me off. That's what I was thinking reading through this post. Playing a fish is more sporting to me than winching him in. I just set my drag stiff enough for a good hookset and tire the fish. But I guess tournament fishing is different than sportfishing and would do the same if money/prestige were riding on it. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted February 11, 2016 Super User Posted February 11, 2016 15 minutes ago, Florida Cracker2 said: That's what I was thinking reading through this post. Playing a fish is more sporting to me than winching him in. I just set my drag stiff enough for a good hookset and tire the fish. But I guess tournament fishing is different than sportfishing and would do the same if money/prestige were riding on it. When I mention 'winching' I'm talking about bass in cover where they can wrap up. In open water I'm happy to let them show their stuff. However, drag isn't needed for that to happen. Rod and arm length absorb most of what most bass will dish out -at least up here in the North. Quote
Florida Cracker2 Posted February 11, 2016 Posted February 11, 2016 I wasn't referring to your comment. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted February 12, 2016 Super User Posted February 12, 2016 17 hours ago, Florida Cracker2 said: I wasn't referring to your comment. Yeah, I know. Just jumping off, since I said so much about winching and not giving line. Quote
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