I'm About To Put Braid On A Reel For The First Time....

[Missourifishin]

I've never spooled one of my reels with braid. But I'm going to put some on 2 of my baitcasters and I have some simple beginner's questions. First of all, about how many yards of cheap mono backing do you use, and then how do you tie on the braid? Also, speaking of tying on, I have always used an improved clinch knot when tying my mono line to lures. Is there any reason why I might want to change that for braid? In other words, are there knots better for braid than with mono?

Also, are there certain techniques/lures you guys do NOT like to ever use braid for? Spooling up with braid will be new to me, so I was thinking of doing it on a combo that I got mostly for A-rigs, and maybe a crankbait combo. But I'm not sure. 

I may think of more questions later. But for now my last one is this: Does anyone have experience with XPS 8 advanced braid from Bass Pro, and if so how do you like it? I went ahead and got some because I got it cheap.

Thanks.

[Evan K]

I don't use backing but may switch someday. Braided line usually lasts longer than mono IMO.

Use the Palomar knot to tie on lures- it's ridiculously simple and easy and one of the strongest knots for braid.

I use P-Line TCB 8-carrier braid and like it very much so far. You'll be very pleasantly surprised how limp and castable braid is, and the low stretch is a big advantage (for many situations) as well.

I don't use braid on my crankbait/treble-hook-lure-rod, I use co-polymer because a little bit of line stretch doesn't hurt in a setup such as that, but I use braid on everything else.

[lordpaxin]

I also do not use a Mono Backer.

I do however, use tape.

I typically cut a section of gorilla tape the width of the spool center (varies on spools how wide, just dont crumple it up on the bevels)

I will cut it half the length of the spool, i then double loop the braid and use a arbor knot, then use tape piece 2, over the knot and into the gap on the spool.

this way i get full coverage, even base, and minimal line reduction becase of the tape.

 

my favorite line is PP slick, 

I have used many others, and prefer slick mainly because of the surface smoothness and how it glides across the guides.

[MickD]

The direct answer to one of your questions is that the improved clinch knot is not reliable for braid to lures.  Palomar is the ticket.  What I don't like about the palomar is that it uses a significant length of line with every tying, so I recommend either using a snap so you won't have to retie so often or a flourocarbon leader with a snap or tied with your improved clinch knot (wet it when sliding it).

 

For braid to mono or FC the double uni is reliable and easy, but it's big.  The GT knot is a little harder to tie but is very small and will pass through almost any guide set.

[Missourifishin]

Thanks for the replies. Evan has a good point about a little extra stretch in the line. I'm not sure if I need it though. My dedicated crankbait rod is a glass st croix mojo bass, 6'10" which already has a lot of give. I suppose switching from mono to braid with it might throw me off on my hooksets though...

[poisonokie]

I just spool on enough equal diameter mono or fluoro to cover the spool, then uni-uni to braid.

[stk]

I use a mono backer, usually whatever I have laying around.  I look at the reel's IPT and the spool capacity for the closest line size to the braid and kind of guestimate how much backing to put on and how much braid to put on.  So say your reel does 32inches per turn (I know this isn't quite accurate as the spool will pull in more/less line when the spool is full) and at 10lb mono it'll hold 150 yards (450ft).  So roughly 3 ft, per reel handle spin.  I typically only put about 75 yards of braid on so if I put on 40lb braid (which is 10lb mono equivalent) I'm only going to turn the handle 75 times after the backing is on (or close).  So same with the backing, I want to put whatever the spool capacity - 75 yards.  In this case, it's also 75 yards of mono.

 

I hope that made sense.  I've used 10-15lb braid on my finesse setups, 20-40lb braid for my jigs and t-rigs and for frogs, I've used 50-65lb braid.  This year has been an experiment for me because I started using fluoro a little bit more.  Braid was nice because it lasted so long, but I've noticed a higher number of bites on fluoro. 

 

As for knots on braid, if you power pro super slick, I've had the improved clinch slip.  Couple of things you can do is try to take the coating off the last foot or so of the super slick by running it inbetween your finger and your thumbnail or you can use the san diego jam knot or the palomar knot.  On regular power pro the improved clinch works fine just leave a little longer tag.

 

Good luck.

[A-Jay]

There are a few different methods for determining how much braid to spin on a casting reel.

 

Here's two :

 

1).  Fill your reel with your backing.  Then make a long cast, from there you pull off more mono of a length equal to the length of that cast.  Now cut the mono there and attach the braid (uni to uni knot works well).  Now fill the reel with braid.  You'll end up with a length of braid that is close to two casts - completely sufficient and economical.  You could even retain the extra mono to use a leader if that's the way you're going.  Also when it's time to replace the braid you'll only need to remove back to the knot and them re-fill,  Easy.

 

2).  Fill the entire spool with briad.  Braid does wear some over time depending on your useage & the conditions you fish it.  When it's time, simply "end for end" the line on your reel so that the bottom line on the spool becomes the top and you're good to go with fresh line.

 

Hope that helps

 

btw - I do like a glass rod with braid for some cranking - they compliment each other very nicely.

 

A-Jay

[Evan K]

I agree with A-Jay that if you're using a glass rod low-stretch braid should be just fine. You can tweak your drag as well if you find yourself tearing hooks out (but I doubt you will).

Regarding the Palomar using a lot of line, I agree that looping over your lure or hook does take a good bit. The trick is then to pull on that loop until the tag end is very short, then pull the main line to close the loop and it takes no more line than any other knot really.

[68camaro]

I put 50lb braid on my spool with no backing, and when casting braid is kinda noisy? Is this normal, did I spool too tight or something?

[DTack]

I am not a knot expert...  But using the trilene knot is great as it doesn't waste much tag end....  And it holds, period.  I also use the san diego jam at times just because I tie it out of habit as it's what I use for all other lines.  

[Preytorien]

Using straight braid or a braid leader?

 

Be prepared to never go back!

 

I can't hardly use my finesse (flouro) or anything with copoly anymore. I can't get used to the stretch. I like that near zero stretch of braid.

 

I just recently (a year ago) started experimenting with braid + leader combinations and it's worked out very well. 

 

When you think about it, using a flouro leader for invisibility, or mono for a bit more stretch on hookset, a leader of either would do the same job, no need for a whole spool of it.

[iaYakker]

I'm curious about braid. I've always used mono 12 lb test. I think I would love a line that doesn't get distorted as easily. Is it easier to break braid though?

[Missourifishin]

I'm curious about braid. I've always used mono 12 lb test. I think I would love a line that doesn't get distorted as easily. Is it easier to break braid though?

I believe braid is more likely to fray on things like rocks, but I could be wrong. Overall though, it should be less likely to break. 50 lb braid is about the same diameter as 12 lb mono. So much more bang for your buck as far as strength goes.

One of the reasons I like the idea of braid is that I think I will lose less lures to snags than I do now using 12 lb mono. So for those of you who have mentioned or asked about the leader situation, wouldn't a mono or fluoro leader be just as vulnerable to breaking off on a snag as straight mono?

[A-Jay]

I believe braid is more likely to fray on things like rocks, but I could be wrong. Overall though, it should be less likely to break. 50 lb braid is about the same diameter as 12 lb mono. So much more bang for your buck as far as strength goes.

One of the reasons I like the idea of braid is that I think I will lose less lures to snags than I do now using 12 lb mono. So for those of you who have mentioned or asked about the leader situation, wouldn't a mono or fluoro leader be just as vulnerable to breaking off on a snag as straight mono ?

 

The pros & cons of both using braid as well as using braid with or without a leader are debatable.

 

 Whatever method is chosen, the factors that determine whether a snagged line comes free may have more to do with just the line & / or leader itself.

 

Depending on what bait is used, there are treble hooks & split rings that may straighten or open up, jig & spinnerbait hooks that often won't and let's not discount the final knot / connection to the bait itself that may or may not fail (but could be damaged / compromised by cover / structure while fishing).

 

I'd recommend proper bait and or technique choice as more of a helper when it comes to fishing through cover & structure effectively rather than heavy line.  

 

A-Jay

[hatrix]

I usually fill somewhere around 1/4 slightly less with backing. Enough so it covers and I can't see the soool through the line. I use to tie my backing using a uni to uni. Now I just use a piece of painters tape. I don't like the knot in my spool and if using heavy line it can cause the line to stack on one side or you might feel it at the end of a long cast. Try and put it on as tight as possible. You can hold it or do the phone book thing but I can't get it as tight as I like.

[WPCfishing]

I have braid on all my reels. I use a CX leader for all moving baits. I usually tie a blood knot or if I'm in the mood an FC.

I rely on my rods a lot.. I do not like line that stretches. 

I spool about a third with backing or not at all. I also reverse the braid when is worn down and use the new side that was spooled and tied to the backing. 

It's brand new down there, no need to waste it.

[Missourifishin]

The pros & cons of both using braid as well as using braid with or without a leader are debatable.

 

 Whatever method is chosen, the factors that determine whether a snagged line comes free may have more to do with just the line & / or leader itself.

 

Depending on what bait is used, there are treble hooks & split rings that may straighten or open up, jig & spinnerbait hooks that often won't and let's not discount the final knot / connection to the bait itself that may or may not fail (but could be damaged / compromised by cover / structure while fishing).

 

I'd recommend proper bait and or technique choice as more of a helper when it comes to fishing through cover & structure effectively rather than heavy line.  

 

A-Jay

I don't disagree. But I use a lot of treble hook lures, etc with the stock hooks that came on them. I've lost MANY of them in the last few years. I can't help but think the number of lost lures would be less if I had straightened some of those hooks off rather than snapping 12 lb mono. I do understand that there will be times when heavier line won't save a lure, and some hooks such as on jigs might not bend. But I fish from the bank and I get snagged a lot. It's just a shame to lose so many 5 dollar crankbaits, etc.

[Stingray23]

Flippers:

 

Are you guys tying your jigs/bait directly to the braid or are you using a leader?

[A-Jay]

I don't disagree. But I use a lot of treble hook lures, etc with the stock hooks that came on them. I've lost MANY of them in the last few years. I can't help but think the number of lost lures would be less if I had straightened some of those hooks off rather than snapping 12 lb mono. I do understand that there will be times when heavier line won't save a lure, and some hooks such as on jigs might not bend. But I fish from the bank and I get snagged a lot. It's just a shame to lose so many 5 dollar crankbaits, etc.

 

I hear YA -

 

Admittedly it's been a while since I fished from shore but I still do remember the challenges - sometimes it's tough sledding.

 

I guess if I were forced to fish treble hook baits from the bank in an environment in which hanging up was highly likely, I'd go with Straight 30 lb braid (no leader).

 

Additionally I'd carry a short stout wooden dowel that would be used to wrap around the standing part of a snagged line with the hope to pull it free.  Braid of that size will fish the baits effectively and have Sufficient Strength to straight out most any stock treble & or split rings on a straight pull.  Of course if the bait is somehow wedged and not hung by a hook, you're probably going to donate that one to the Bass Gods . . .

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

[WPCfishing]

Flippers:

 

Are you guys tying your jigs/bait directly to the braid or are you using a leader?

 

For me it depends on water color and cover.. Mid Murky or less I tie direct with Jigs. In heavy cover I always tie direct no matter what the water clarity is. 

[Jaderose]

1/4 full with cheap mono...uni to uni......I use palomar on braid for lures.  I like 15 lb Power pro Slick 8..even froggin and I've only snapped the line once.  ONCE!!  

[Dye99]

I use 30b braid with no backer.

 

I just tie the line through one of the spool holes so there is no slippage.

 

Been doing it that way for years and years, never had an issue.

[bass1980]

From my experience I have never had a knot failed using the improve clinch knot. That is all I tie except for my drop shot setup. I'm not saying it's the best knot for braid, but it works for me and I horse them out of thick milfoil.

Braid on cranks can work if you have a true cranking rod which you do. With glass rods you lose so much sensitivity but using braid enhances it dramatically. I cranked a whole season with 20lb braid on a GL2 crank rod and did just fine. Casting crank on braided line was much more manageable too.

If I'm not trying to save money or line I only use 2-3 layers of backing. In the past I didn't use backing but I use painters tape. Use a little of it on the knot and spool and you should be set.

The waters I fish doesn't have much rocks or timber so I use braid for all of my setups except my cranking, DS, and shakey head setups. With Trigs and Jigs you can't beat the sensitivity of braided line. Plus I don't like the stretch of mono or flouro when working bottom contact lures but that's just me.

[bassheel]

Another braid money saver, you can flip your braid. Let out all you have on your spool maybe in your yard and then put the old on first so the underneath braid is on top.