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  • Super User
Posted

I think you have to be more specific about what you are asking for.

  • Super User
Posted

If you are asking about how to space micros, you space them the same as any other guide.  If you find that spacing allows more line contact with the blank that you like, add a guide or two.  An extra guide or two does not, at least to my experience, cost any performance attribute of the rod.  For spinning rods, the real issue is the reduction train; after that use all guides the same size spaced so you like the way the rig under stress looks.  I don't think there is a chart that answers all the possible questions for all possible blanks for all possible guide types.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

If you're building a spinning rod, a set of MicroWave guides will take the guess work out of the equation. Place the dual guide, reduction guide and first running guide where they tell you to. Static test to place the remainder. Done.

 

For casting rods, I start with a size 6, and use size 4 for the rest, unless I'm spiral wrapping. Then it's one 6, a 5 for the bumper and first guide on the bottom, and 4s the rest of the way out. I start with the 6 about 20" in front of the face of the reel, and test cast to get the first three guides placed. Then static testing for the rest.

Posted

If you're building a spinning rod, a set of MicroWave guides will take the guess work out of the equation. Place the dual guide, reduction guide and first running guide where they tell you to. Static test to place the remainder. Done.

For casting rods, I start with a size 6, and use size 4 for the rest, unless I'm spiral wrapping. Then it's one 6, a 5 for the bumper and first guide on the bottom, and 4s the rest of the way out. I start with the 6 about 20" in front of the face of the reel, and test cast to get the first three guides placed. Then static testing for the rest.

That was going to be my second question. So when lining them up from butt to tip I use a stripping guide, reduction then my runners and tip top?

Posted

There are several systems you can use. Even a Rapid Choke setup use a stripper and two reduction guides. Three reduction guides is common with a 27x . The Microwave system is a no-brainer and works well with a variety of reel sizes should you switch up. The 5.5 runners in the kit are a compromise between "Full size" and the 4 or 4.5 "micros". When starting from scratch I pick running guide size by determining the smallest, lightest guides that will pass the line and any connections and hold up to the application. Ice, algae and anything else that may impede line flow should be factored in as well. On a bass rod, I usually end up with runners between 4 and 5.5 sizes. 

  • Super User
Posted

That was going to be my second question. So when lining them up from butt to tip I use a stripping guide, reduction then my runners and tip top?

 

That's it, for a spinning rod using MicroWave guides. I've built three rods so far using them, and they work. If you're building a spinning rod over 6'6", order a couple of extra runners. Depending on the blank, and static testing, you made need one or two more. These guides are only sold as a set. They sell the runners extra. The spacing of the stripper, reduction and first runner are critical to best casting performance. Place the rest of the runners by static testing.

 

If you're not using MicroWave guides, there are several ways to set up your guide train. I'l just say you need a more experienced guy to help you with that. I've used the "new concept" setup and the KR setup. Both were more work and testing to get acceptable results. Since my first build with MicroWaves, I've decided that no other method is necessary for my purposes.

  • Super User
Posted

I've used the 27x method.  It requires having the reel you plan to use and buying an extra guide or 2 but when done right, it works really well.  The MicroWave system should be much easier to implement but I have no experience with them.

  • Super User
Posted

If you're building it, you can use anything you want that looks good to you. Get a setup that is pleasing to the eye, if that matters to you, and then start test casting. I use static testing from the tiptop down.Then it's test casting to get the first two guides set, and maybe the third.

 

As far as double foot guides go, I don't use them on my rods. I don't think they are necessary.

 

If I'm building for somebody else, I do what they want.

Posted

So there really isn't a specific series of guides that are just strippers/reduction guides? You can use whatever you want?

Posted

That solves everything now. Obviously I wouldn't go from a size 25 and have the next one be a size 5, but keep it all within reason.

  • Super User
Posted

There you go. It's your rod; build it to suit you. The key, in my mind, is testing. Static load testing for the upper end of the rod, and test casting to place the stripper and first reduction guide. The placement of the third guide up from the reel may be a compromise between static testing and casting testing, with casting performance being more important to me.

 

The most important thing is to keep it as light as possible. Use the smallest guides you can get away with. And then take your time testing to get them placed properly. That's my approach to it anyway. Keep in mind, I'm a rookie at this rod building thing.

 

If Mike from DVT, or Scott Hovanec, or Mick D come along and tell you something different that what I've said; just between you and me, I'd do what they said.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

My wife is going to hate me this winter.

 

Why? It's not as if you're going to be out there drinking, gambling, chasing skirts, etc. My wife has actually been very supportive of my new habit.

 

There are a lot worse ways to spend our spare time. Tell her that.

Posted

It's because when I do something, I tend to over do things. I really have a hard time buying the cheaper stuff to learn. That being said I don't drink or chase skirts and I use that as an excuse to buy fishing stuff, but that only works for so long, lol.

Posted

I always start with a double footed 6, then a single footed 5, and 4.5's for the running guides. Welcome to rod building. It is pretty awesome.

Posted

It always happens that way. Your like us, we buy the best cause we want the best! lol One thing to note, you can save money if your used to buying expensive rods. Then again it will cost you more cause you can put all the trick stuff on 1 rod!! 

  • Like 1

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