Notes from 1st Time Powder Painting

[FuzzyGrub]

The following are notes I took from my 1st painting. I would appreciate any adders from the pro's and welcome any clarifications needed by newbies like myself, or even non-painters.

Notes from 1st Time Powder Painting

I painted over 150+ jig heads over two days approximately 4 hours per day. Primarily used three colors (Green Pumpkin, Black, Brown) but also used a little White and Chartreuse on a few swim jig heads. The method used utilized a toaster oven for heating and curing. All jigs were painted to a "fishable" state. Only a handful had too much paint causing bulges, and a couple did not have complete coverage of the bait retainer. Only the critical eye of a fisherman would notice these defects.

Prior to performing painting, I read many a tip from:

     Tackle Underground forums

     TJ's Tackle Supply

     Jann's Netcraft Lure Component Supply

     Pro-tec Paint Literature

The following notes are to document what worked for me and what did not. Also notes provided for reminder for things to improve on for the next batch, whenever that should come.

Jigs: The following jig sizes and types were painted:

     1/8, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 oz Football Jig heads.

     1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 oz Arky Jig heads.

     1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 oz Round Finesse Jig heads.

     1/4 and 3/8 oz Swim Jig heads.

Apparatus used:

     Regular size toaster oven with removable trays.

     Cooling Rack (from old microwave oven rack).

     Curing Rack (from old microwave oven rack).

Tools:

     Hemostats

     Pliers

     Spring-loaded clothespins for tray removal

     Oven thermometer to check initial temperatures

Materials:

     Unpainted Jig Heads w/o weed guards installed

     Pro-tec Powder paint in 2 or 4 oz containers.

General Process:

     Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees, checking with thermometer.

     Heat jig heads for 25 minutes before painting.

     Paint smallest size first.

     Remove one at a time to paint, with hemostats, close toaster oven door.

     Quick Dip and quick swirl in paint.

     Tap off extra paint, weed guard hole facing down for 1st couple taps.

     Rotate and tap off all extra paint. Do quickly after dip and swirl.

     Hang on curing rack.

     Cover and fluff paint between each jig painting.

o      Note: tapping causes paint to settle, and larger jigs need to be immersed further in paint

     Paint about 20 jig heads to a batch.

     Clean paint from hook eye with "eye buster" before putting each jig in curing rack.

     Remove most/all paint from hook eye.

     Place next batch of 20 jig heads on bottom pan.

     Place curing rack on top of jig heads.

     Cure for 20 minutes at 350 degrees.

     Remove curing rack and let cool.

     Let jig heads heat for another 5 minutes before starting painting process again.

Switching Colors:

     Use one paint at a time.

     Paint all jig heads of same color before changing.

     Clean paint dust from hemostats and other tools on change.

     Clean bench area of any paint dust.

     Fluff new paint well, before first dip.

     Test fluff with "cold" jig, re-fluff.

Notes:

     Don't focus on glossy or dull of jig heads after paint. I had some of both, and most had glossy and dull spots. Curing process made them all look great.

     The above might have been required more of the "torch" method.

     Do not double dip. You will end up with too much paint.

     Paint is extremely hard to remove from hook eyes after curing.

     Epoxy top coating or nail polish will not be necessary. Jigs will most likely be lost before the paint ever chips.

     FWIW: Black seemed to be the easiest color to work with. GP was probably the hardest because I started with that.

Things that didn't work or didn't work well for me:

     Using hemostat to cover hook eye from getting paint in it. The jig heads I used would not allow easy dipping into 2 oz paint containers.

     Using tooth picks after initial paint coating to remove paint from hook eyes still left some paint that reflowed during curing.

     Homemade curing rack allowed touching of jig heads and did not maximize the number for curing.

     Wooden plugs in weed guard holes was too difficult to handle before dipping in paint. 1st tap and minimize amount of paint applied, minimized the number that needed a drill chaser.

     A few jigs ended up with too much paint and produced "bulges". Work on dip/swirl process.

Purchase/Make for next batch:

     Two curing racks from bread pan (alum foil pan plus two threaded rods)

o      Should be able to increase batch size to 30, maybe more.

     Extra set of hemostats

     Empty salt shaker for two-tone paint

     Small Tupperware type containers

     Find something to fill the "dead" time while batch is curing.

     Extra 2 oz Paint containers.

[cadman]

Very good documentation. This will help a lot of newbies and a reminder for more experienced jig makers that use powder paint.

[basspro96]

I wouldn't use a salt shaker. The holes are way to big for the powder paint. I would just get a craft brush of whatever size you need to do detail with two tone baits.

[FuzzyGrub]

Very good documentation. This will help a lot of newbies and a reminder for more experienced jig makers that use powder paint.

Cadman, I read many of your posts here and at TU.  Thanks for all you have shared with everyone.

[FuzzyGrub]

I wouldn't use a salt shaker. The holes are way to big for the powder paint. I would just get a craft brush of whatever size you need to do detail with two tone baits.

Thanks for adverting a "dumb" idea before it is tried.  Not even sure how much I will dable in two-tones, anyway.

[cadman]

Very good documentation. This will help a lot of newbies and a reminder for more experienced jig makers that use powder paint.

Cadman, I read many of your posts here and at TU. Thanks for all you have shared with everyone.

John,

I've been doing this for about going on 8 years, and I've tried to help all of those that ask. As you know there is a wealth of knowledge on TU as well. I'm glad to be of some help. My avatar is a 6 color powder paint spinnerbait with an additional glitter coat and a clearcoat, so anything is possible if you practice a lot. When you get a chance post some pics. I will post some pics of some spinnerbaits I made for my cousin of the (5) major sports teams in Chicago

[Siebert Outdoors]

Good read.  Very informative

I have to ask though.  Where are the pics?

[FuzzyGrub]

Good read. Very informative

I have to ask though. Where are the pics?

Pics of solid color bare jig heads are very boring.  I am now playing with different skirt tab color combinations, number of tabs, and attaching methods.   I will post some pics of final product.

[FuzzyGrub]

A few skirts I made and put on today.

[Siebert Outdoors]

Now we're talkin.  Nice jigs dude.

[cadman]

Definitely nice jigs. See and you said you can't dress up a plain old jig head. Very nice. :)

[FuzzyGrub]

Thanks for the comments. I am happy with how these turned out. It probably means a more lasting addiction, though!

[dollarbill300]

nice jigs. I have recently started making my own as well. Finishing up the first batch, I will post pictures soon. Where did you get your skirt material from. It looks thicker than what I am using. How many strands are on each one. The 2 big problems I am having right now are trying to get full coverage after pouring the melted lead, and how to keep the hole open for the weedguards. I ended up having to take a 1/8th drill bit to them.After i get the skirts made with the band, I am having trouble pushing them up the hook and onto the jig head. The band is moving and so is the skirt material. I was thinking of putting a little baby oil on the hook and jig head so hopefully it will slide on easier.

[FuzzyGrub]

$300,

The skirts were purchased from a few different places. My first batch came from Jann's Netcraft, picked up some more with an order from Susquehanna Fishing Tackle, and others from a forum member. The different color choices can get addicting. All the skirts are 20 strand and appear near the same. I have some Living Image multi-color but have tended to prefer more solid colors and mix the colors myself.

The jigs in the pictures are a bit over endowed. They have 3 or 3 1/2 tabs per jig. I have weened down to 2 - 2 1/2.

I didn't pour my own lead. I purchased most of the unpainted jigs from North Star Baits. They were having a 25% off Black Friday sale. I did opt to have the weed guards not attached. I didn't try prefitting the weed guards before painting, put suspect that there were some that the lead was not perfect. Between that, but mainly the paint, I used a drill bit chaser and prefitted before epoxy. Many required removing 3-4 strands to fit the hole. No problem, because there is more than enough strands to get the job done. Devcon 2 ton held fine after a night of cure time.

I didn't have any issue pushing the skirts up the jig using a slight back and forth motion while pushing up the jig. I had to be a little careful not to roll the rubber collar. I did paint all the way to the hook shank, though. Also, the largest jigs I have done have only been 1/2oz. Probably depends allot on the particular jig mold/design you have.  I only pushed the skirt collar on to the trailer part of the jig. I then used copper enamel wire to tie and hold the skirts to the jig. I then removed the rubber collar.

The copper wire can be drawn down a little more than the rubber collar allows, and gets slightly more "fluff" to the inner strands. I could also squeeze a rattle strap behind it. I had read that somewhere, and from my own testing found it to be true.

I hope this newbie info can help.