Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 I had to cut the trailer wire to put on a different plug in for a side marker light that was out. When I did that it killed the running lights. I still have brake lights and I still have signal lights but no running lights. Can anyone tell me how to fix this problem. Thank you. Quote
joefish Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 Sounds like maybe you did not get a good splice we installing the site marker light wiring. Quote
BaitMonkey1984 Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 I feel your pain. Spent the better part of the afternoon working on my aluminum boat trailer including installing all new wires and lights. I would start simple, check the splice and check the ground. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks BaitMonkey 1984 for the suggestions. Can you tell me how I check the ground? The wire that I spliced was a black wire running alongside a green and yellow or brown and yellow (can't remember which now) wire or wires. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 do you mean that maybe I cut some of the brass wires off when I stripped the vinyl off with my knife? guess I should invest in a wire stripper? how can I make sure I get a good splice even when using a wire stripper? is there a guaranteed way to get a good splice? Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted October 4, 2015 Super User Posted October 4, 2015 First, do you have a DVM? Do the tail lights on the vehicle still work? What kind of vehicle? Most of the newer vehicles have separate turn signal/brake and tail lights so they have to use a diode interface/adapter to make them work on the trailer lights. It's possible you could have blown a diode in the adapter. I rented an auto dolly from U-Haul that had a shorted wire and when they hooked it up, it blew my fuse. They fixed the short, I replaced the fuse but didn't have tail lights on the auto dolly after that. Finally diagnosed it to the adapter being bad, and they gave me a price for a replacement. I politely told him I didn't care what it cost, they were paying for it and installing it. After some heated debate and my call to their to their corporate office, they replaced it and everything worked fine. I've never been able to see electrons in a wire and test lights can lie to you since they don't show the actual voltage, I believe in using a voltmeter. If it's tail lights you are chasing, it should be the brown wire. Also remember, it take two wires to make a circuit, if the brown wire has voltage all the way back then check the bulbs bulb sockets and ground. The sockets in boat trailers have a tendency to rust and cause problems also. Quote
BaitMonkey1984 Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks BaitMonkey 1984 for the suggestions. Can you tell me how I check the ground? The wire that I spliced was a black wire running alongside a green and yellow or brown and yellow (can't remember which now) wire or wires. The ground is usually the white or black wire- not green, yellow, or brown. Check your instruction manual online to determine definitively. The ground wire is usually only a few inches long and attaches to the trailer near the trailer tongue. Whenever I have problems with the trailer lights I always start here. Make sure the wire is not corroded and that it has a good, constant contact with the body of the trailer. IF it doesn't, cut the ground wire an inch or two and put in a a new ring style wire end blade connection while your at it. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks BaitMonkey. I will have someone check it out. Quote
bassinhole Posted October 4, 2015 Posted October 4, 2015 Also make sure to seal any splices you make with heatshrink. Especially on a trailer. Corrosion caused by putting the trailer in the water will quickly ruin any unprotected splices. I will typically use a combination of Heat shrink and liquid electrical tape to ensure a good seal when working with my boat/trailer wiring. The liquid electrical tape is doubly important when splicing multiple wires from a single source as heat shrink will leave a gap where the two wires meet one. Heat Shrink Tubing http://www.amazon.com/b?node=700782011 Liquid Electric Tape http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-4-Ounce-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 4, 2015 Super User Posted October 4, 2015 You may have blown a fuse when working on that wire. Most vehicles are factory wired with vehicle lights and trailer lights on separate circuits. Check the fuse diagrams for your vehicle to find the trailer fuses. Dollars to donuts you'll find that the trailer tail light fuse is blown. The trailer's tail lights and other marker lights are on the same circuit if memory serves. Get a cheap circuit tester and test the plug on your tow vehicle. Turn on the lights only and see if you have power at the tail light plug. Ground one lead from the tester and use the probe on the plug. If you don't know which one is the for the tail lights put the probe in one at a time. If the tester does not light, or show voltage, depending on the type of tester on any of the circuits, it's a trailer fuse on the vehicle that has blown. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 4, 2015 Super User Posted October 4, 2015 Here's a fuse panel diagram for a 2008 GMC pickup truck. Numbers 3, 6, 10, and 24 are for the trailer exclusively, denoted by the TRLR. The #3 is for the trailer stop/left turn. Number 6 is for the trailer stop/right turn. Number 10 is for the backup lights or, for the trailer brake lockout system if the trailer is equipped with a surge type of brake. Number 24 is for the trailer parking lights, also called running lights, or whatever. I strongly suspect this is the fuse that is blown in your case. Check your owners manual for the fuse panel diagram(s). I had this problem a couple of years ago. I fussed with the wires, the contacts, and everything else I could think of. The lights on the truck worked fine. Then, for whatever reason, it popped into my mind that the wiring of the truck might have a dedicated system for the trailer, and, it did. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 4, 2015 Super User Posted October 4, 2015 One more thought. If the fuse is blown, you may have created a short when you worked on the wiring. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 One more thought. If the fuse is blown, you may have created a short when you worked on the wiring. Thanks so much Fishing Rhino. I can not find a fuse or fuse box, any idea on where it is located on the trailer? I have a '96 Ranger Trail. Thank you very much for your help. Rick Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 4, 2015 Super User Posted October 4, 2015 The fuse panel is not on the boat. It's in your tow vehicle. Look in your owner's manual. If you don't have an owners manual do a search for "fuse panel (year, make and model of your vehicle)" Most are under the hood, but some may be behind a panel on or under the dashboard of your car/truck. You may have a fuse panel for your boat but it won't have anything to do with the trailer. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 To WaytoSlow. Thanks for the reply. No I do not have a volt meter. All lights work on my truck. It is a 2003 F150. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 Fishing Rhino, great idea, I will check that, I bet it is just a blown fuse. Thanks. Rick Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 4, 2015 Author Posted October 4, 2015 Bassinhole thanks much for the suggestion and links. Which one of the tubes do you prefer? Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 5, 2015 Author Posted October 5, 2015 Fishing Rhino thanks again for the reply. I will check tomorrow my truck fuse diagram. I have a 2003 F150 truck. I bet it is just a blown fuse. By the way should I disconnect the truck battery while replacing the bad side marker light? Thanks a million for your help. Quote
Ski213 Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 You can just disconnect the trailer plug from the truck when working on trailer wiring to de energize the trailer wiring. Quote
Ski213 Posted October 5, 2015 Posted October 5, 2015 You also might consider buying a meter. You can buy one that will accomplish what you need it to fairly cheap and it's indispensable for troubleshooting wiring. It really allows you to isolate what and where your problem is once you learn how to use it. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 5, 2015 Super User Posted October 5, 2015 Here's the fuse panel diagram for a 2003 F-150 pickup. It shows your trailer fuses and relays. It's in the engine compartment of your truck. Quote
Golffnutt Posted October 5, 2015 Author Posted October 5, 2015 Fixed, blown fuse. Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions and have a wonderful and blessed day. Oh by the way save a few fish for this beginner. Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted October 5, 2015 Super User Posted October 5, 2015 Don't have to worry about me saving you some, 99.9% of what I catch goes back in the lake anyway. I've always said, for every pound of bass I eat, it probably cost me at least $2,000 a pound to eat it. Normally, I have to take tackle and stuff out of my live well where I use it for storage to turn the pumps on. Clarks Hill is a perfect example of a states stupidity. The lake has a 12" minimum size limit, and the state fisheries management asked that you please don't throw those little one back because the lake is over populated with them, so sometimes if the wife's fussing about fish, I will keep the dinks 12-13", but a friend of mine got fined $100 because he had one that he swore was 12" but the game warden said it was 11 7/8". They beg you to keep the small ones, but then fine you for one that 1/8" too short. Quote
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