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[Bass Hole]

I built this rod back in July in some what of a rush. I needed it for a tournament and had two days to finish it.

Here's were I need some help the rod is extremely tip heavy.

I have moved the real seat up the blank twice already and can not move it anymore

The rod is 7'med with 9 fuji titanium guides.

I have built more than a few rods and never had this problem..

What can I do short of weighting the but?

I am ready to strip it and do it over.

Thanks for any help

[hmongkidBee]

you should go on rodbuilding.org and ask those guys.

[flechero]

Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do now.  Using natural cork on a spinning rod with a split grip stacks the deck against you.  There are very few blanks that will balance out in that scenario. 

If you put a price on your time, it's cheaper to just start over and the results will be much better than on a rebuild.  Then hang on to that one for a spare, or you might weight it and use it for shakey head or something.

I know the disappointment you are feeling...  trust me.   

[.RM.]

From the size of that first guide, looks like the rod is setup for a 1000 series spinning reel. What size reel are you trying to build the rod for. I have found most all of the 7'ers I have built balanced really well using 2500 series reels. Did you tape the reel intended for use to the blank before building, just to check the balance?

Like Keith stated might be better to just pick up more components and do another build...

Good Luck & Tight Wraps!!   

[Bass Hole]

Thanks for the advice.

I already striped the rod and will start over. 

Like I said I was in a rush to get it done and skiped some steps. I did use it for a 2500 shimano. i just could not understand why it was so tip heavy.

Thanks again

[I Love BassResource]

  I typically use natural cork/eva and soley build split grips.  On most spinning rods I use a 8inch handle on 7ft rods, and 7 inch handle on 6'6 rods.  I will of course adjust the handle lenght a bit if need, usually no more than +/- 1/2.  I utilize the x27 method of finding my first choke guide, and I use that as a general starting point. 

http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/spinningNGC.pdf

  I use 4mm micros from choke to tip, which helps lighten the tip tremendously. This of course also allows for less epoxy, which equates to less dampening on the blank, which provides increased sensitivity.  I rarely have more than 2-3 transition guides to my choke.  I've built a ton of sticks using this approach, and if properly done they all balance very well. 

  If you use extremely light handle material, a skeleton seat, split grips, etc.... and load the blank up with heavy guides, use guides that are unnecessarily large, or use a traditional Cone type of placement, I would fully expect the rod to be out of balance.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I go one step further than taping the reel to the rod by dry fitting the reel & reel seat with cork arbors to fine tune the balance point. Combined with the suggested 27x micro guide placement method, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with the balance you can achieve as well as improved casting. Good luck!