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Posted

Anybody got a good tutorial on doing an epoxy ramp on a rod? I've done some searches and other than a couple really old posts on another site and a phantom post on this site which is a link on Google that goes no where I cannot find much. I like how some of them look and would like to learn how to do it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Start by taping off the seat threads. Mix up a batch of paste epoxy. 30min will be easier to work with. Apply and let it start to set up. with rod turning in a dryer shape the ramp with a finger wet with denatured alcohol. Shape leaving enough depth to add thread and finish otherwise you run into trouble with epoxy in the threads or interfering with the hood opeing if threads are trimmed. Let is set overnight. Wrap with thread, paint or marble as desired and finish with guide wrap epoxy. It will take a little practice and experimentation and your final process may vary. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Good Idea. I got one of those cheapo reamers from mudhole where all the sanding material came off anyway I can put something on there to mimic a reel seat.

  • Super User
Posted

If I'm going to be wrapping over the top of the ramp, I do it just like Mike suggested. I use Rod Bond epoxy; the same stuff used to fix the seat and grips to the blank. It's easier to work with than thread finish for making ramps.

 

But, if I want to see the thread under the ramp, I use regular hi build thread epoxy. This is time consuming, and, for me, a multi-step process. I can't seem to build a decent ramp with just one application.

 

I always have something right in front of the reel seat. Holo wrap, hook keeper, decal, inscription, or some combination. I like two or three coats in this area for extra protection for the blank. Three coats lets me make a nice ramp, because i'll build it with each coat.

 

Coat your wraps in front of the seat as normal. I do 180 degree turns by hand as needed, and wick away any sags. When you get to the point where you're making a turn about 5 minutes apart, start testing the left over epoxy. I use a round stir stick to get a glob and pull it away from the puddle. If it will pull a string about an inch long, it's ready to use for a ramp.

 

get a glob on the stick, and very carefully put it in the blank, just touching the winding check, or reel seat. Put another blob on right next to the first. Rotate the rod toward you so the blob is facing you. Blob on the side, not on the top. When it sags to the botoom, rotate the rod so the blob moves back up and stop when it's facing you again. You're just continually turning the rod so the blob is flowing around the blank. How often, and how far you have to turn depends on the state of the epoxy, and how much you applied. Don't try to do it all one one step. Make a small or shallow ramp with the first coat, and build it higher and deeper with succeeding coats. This looks good with a base layer of metallic thread on the blank.

  • Like 2
Posted

I've seen a few that looked clear and I'm assuming that was using thread finish. I saw one where the builder used some paint in the finish to match the blank and put it over a epoxy paste. I haven't seen one wrapped yet. Its definitely interesting stuff. I'm going to put something together to practice a few times on a couple techniques. I have some of the heavy coat finish left and have a lot of the light coat finish so I can experiment a bit.

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Posted

Using Gary's method with 8 coats

 

0803152042_zpssn7etyom.jpg

 

This one only has 3 coats

 

0913151654b_zpsd6xofcc1.jpg

 

 

I only use High Build finish and as Gary said, timing is the key.

  • Like 1
Posted

I sat down and played around with the epoxy paste tonight. Was getting the basic shape down but getting it to smooth out seemed about impossible. Think I'll give using the finish a try and build it up in multiple steps like you guys have done.

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