Fluoro Issues

[ksfishinguy]

Hey BR, I've been fishing baitcasters for 20+ years, mostly on mono and now braid. I used to fish every single day and have a ton of experience with multiple lines and diameters.

 

This season was my first in about eight years of really fishing again. School, getting married, and young kids just took up all my time. Things have relaxed a little and I've hit the water again!

 

Picked up some new gear at the beginning of the season, Chronarch Ci4, Curado I, Citica G (I got for 50 bucks new!), and a Chronarch 50e. Love all of them, even the Citica G, which I was really surprised by.

 

I also really have become an enthusiast, getting into different lines, different presentations and the like.  Still using mono for most cranking and some top water. I'm using braid for everything else with the exception of weightless plastics, spinner baits, and jerkbaits/squarebills. However, my problem is with fluoro. I've ruined two spools (not entirely, I used backing) of Sniper FC 12lb on my Ci4. Anytime I use a lighter lure like a weightless senko, jerkbait, or Mepps, I just have backlashing issues unless the tension knob is very tight. Any other line on this reel, no problem. It's the smoothest and farthest casting reel I've ever used, stock.

 

I really want to use fluoro for weightless applications and some cranking, as presentation wise it seems like the way to go. However, I just can't seem to get it down. I've noticed the problem is more at the beginning and middle of casts rather than the end, so I believe it has less to do with thumbing or the brakes. I've tried casting as smooth as possible, and that helps, but if I want distance with a light lure I'll inevitably run into a problem.

 

The only thing I might point to is maybe I've overfilled the spool. It's right where I keep it with any other line, with which I don't have issues. The edge of the line sits just below the tallest point on the spool.

 

I've never had issues with backlashing of any kind before this and I'm a little perplexed. Anyone else run into this problem and have suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance!

[bassbassontherange]

You're not the only person to struggle with fluoro. Many people prefer braid with a leader for this reason as well as others, but you probably won't get finesse presentations exactly right, especially in deep water, unless you go 100% fluoro. The lure just doesn't seem to fall evenly if you've got floating line above the leader. 

 

I think you may be on to something with overfilling, especially if you have noticed you cast better with less line on the spool. Fluoro is definitely more sensitive to backlashing. 

 

I don't think it makes a huge difference, but some suggest a line conditioner like KDV or Reel Magic. You might try that. Otherwise, I'd say just stick with it and reduce the amount of line on your spool if that eliminates the problem.

 

You definitely have a good reel for that application. Good luck!

[ksfishinguy]

Yeah I actually went the leader route. Seems to work pretty well except for the deepest presentations.

[Dwight Hottle]

My take on it is to not use fluoro and save your self the hassle. If you really want to use fluoro knowing the difficulty try some Seaguar Tatsu. Its expensive but the best & least troublesome  fluorcarbon you can buy. It is the only one I will use. My experience with it has been with 12lb & 20lb for jerkbaits & deep cranking in Mexico hence the 20lb. 

[Logan S]

You need to re-learn casting with flouro, especially if you've spent years on mono or braid.  It's possible to cast far, skip, pitch, or do anything else you want to do with flouro on a baitcaster...I do all of it with no issues, using one of the 'cheap' flouros with no conditioners.  I say this not to brag about how great I am, but to illustrate that it's possible.  

 

Not saying that flouro is as managable or easy to use as mono or braid...Because it's not.  But with practice you can become just as proficient.  

[Tim Kelly]

Turn the brakes up and the tension down. If you can cast baitcasting gear you shouldn't need to have any extra tension on the tension knob. Fluoro is more tricky, but if you click a couple of extra brake blocks on it should tame pretty much any cast.

[WRB]

The problem with Fluorocarbon line is it's not a hygroscopic polymer, doesn't absorb water. Mono is usually a Nylon polymer that absorbs water wetting it reducing memory so it lays on the baiting revolving spool without springing loose.

The key to casting FC line with is using a line conditioner that wets the line, water is absorbed by the conditioners coating. I use a product called Tangle Free, a 2 oz pocket size plastic bottle that I can apply as needed during the day's outing. KVD line conditioner is another product that is applied about 24 hours before you use the reel to allow it to coat the line. FC with a conditioner added doesn't behave like Nylon, however it's close and casts a lot better than without it until the conditioner dries out and needs to be reapplied.

Sniper FC is good line and your reels are top quality, however you may need to consider a good spinning combo ( Ci4) for the light weight lure presentations with FC line.

Tom

[Fisher-O-men]

Warning about FC on a spinning reel:  The stuff has a mind of its own!  Keeps flowing off of the reel even when the bail is closed!  Nasty stuff!

[WRB]

Warning about FC on a spinning reel:  The stuff has a mind of its own!  Keeps flowing off of the reel even when the bail is closed!  Nasty stuff!

Tangle Free or KVD line conditioners will help to prevent that, if the spool isn't over filled and line diameter doesn't exceed .010 or 10 lb test for 2000 series reels.

Tom

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

Hey BR, I've been fishing baitcasters for 20+ years, mostly on mono and now braid. I used to fish every single day and have a ton of experience with multiple lines and diameters.

 

This season was my first in about eight years of really fishing again. School, getting married, and young kids just took up all my time. Things have relaxed a little and I've hit the water again!

 

Picked up some new gear at the beginning of the season, Chronarch Ci4, Curado I, Citica G (I got for 50 bucks new!), and a Chronarch 50e. Love all of them, even the Citica G, which I was really surprised by.

 

I also really have become an enthusiast, getting into different lines, different presentations and the like.  Still using mono for most cranking and some top water. I'm using braid for everything else with the exception of weightless plastics, spinner baits, and jerkbaits/squarebills. However, my problem is with fluoro. I've ruined two spools (not entirely, I used backing) of Sniper FC 12lb on my Ci4. Anytime I use a lighter lure like a weightless senko, jerkbait, or Mepps, I just have backlashing issues unless the tension knob is very tight. Any other line on this reel, no problem. It's the smoothest and farthest casting reel I've ever used, stock.

 

I really want to use fluoro for weightless applications and some cranking, as presentation wise it seems like the way to go. However, I just can't seem to get it down. I've noticed the problem is more at the beginning and middle of casts rather than the end, so I believe it has less to do with thumbing or the brakes. I've tried casting as smooth as possible, and that helps, but if I want distance with a light lure I'll inevitably run into a problem.

 

The only thing I might point to is maybe I've overfilled the spool. It's right where I keep it with any other line, with which I don't have issues. The edge of the line sits just below the tallest point on the spool.

 

I've never had issues with backlashing of any kind before this and I'm a little perplexed. Anyone else run into this problem and have suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Well like mentioned overfilling the spool might be your isssue. I have a pic of the bottom of the CI4 and as can be seen the egde of the spool is very close to the frame and brace. Any fluff during a cast your line will be getting caught hindered but the spool will want to keep spinning. This gap is less on the CI4 than any of my other reels maybe yours too, this why it might not be noticed on those.

I have a tendency to fill right to the edge but with CI4 cant do that my braid I could feel getting stuck so took some line off.

 

 

[bassbassontherange]

Well like mentioned overfilling the spool might be your isssue. I have a pic of the bottom of the CI4 and as can be seen the egde of the spool is very close to the frame and brace. Any fluff during a cast your line will be getting caught hindered but the spool will want to keep spinning. This gap is less on the CI4 than any of my other reels maybe yours too, this why it might not be noticed on those.

I have a tendency to fill right to the edge but with CI4 cant do that my braid I could feel getting stuck so took some line off.

 

 

Great observation! Fluoro is finicky as it is, but that could definitely be a contributing factor considering how smoothly that spool spins. That'd also explain why he said the tension knob helps, but not the brakes. 

 

You're a freaking fishing detective... a fishtective!

[cottny27]

To me that's a little overfilled.  Soak the fluoro in KVD the night before and keep your line tight and there should be no problem.  I even started using the cheaper Seaguar Red Label and have not issues other than the occasional loop in my line here and there.  I throw weightless senkos and flukes on 12# test 90% of the time.  

[FryDog62]

You could also try sinking braid with a fluorocarbon leader.  I'm experimenting with one right now from Tuff-line and plan to get the other by Spiderwire.  If both the braid and the fluorocarbon leader sink you might have the combination that gives you what you need without the manageability issues of fluorocarbon as a main line.  

[BrianinMD]

It is just a little overfilled, take off some like and soak in KVD L&L. Flouro is the best choice for the tactics you described. I have 15 rods with Abrazx or Invizx flouro, one with copoly for topwater and 2 with braid for frogs/toads. Managing it is no bigger issue than any other line if you do it right.

[d-camarena]

I have spyderwire sinking braid with a flouro leader on one of my rods. Its some good stuff. I love that combo for plastics

[Retired@176]

Warning about FC on a spinning reel:  The stuff has a mind of its own!  Keeps flowing off of the reel even when the bail is closed!  Nasty stuff!

Exactly why I use braid and after a week of using it Gliss mono

[A-Jay]

Well like mentioned overfilling the spool might be your isssue. I have a pic of the bottom of the CI4 and as can be seen the egde of the spool is very close to the frame and brace. Any fluff during a cast your line will be getting caught hindered but the spool will want to keep spinning. This gap is less on the CI4 than any of my other reels maybe yours too, this why it might not be noticed on those.

I have a tendency to fill right to the edge but with CI4 cant do that my braid I could feel getting stuck so took some line off.

 

 

 

You may want to consider cleaning this reel.

 

At the very least shave the moss.

 

A-Jay

[Rich in Co]

I'm not sure if it's true or not but I have read a few times that you should spool FC onto the reel with the line coming off the top of the spool VS coming of the bottom? I have never paid any attention to which way the line is coming off when I fill my casters, so I can say.

 

That theroy doesnt quite make sense to me but it might be true maybe some one can chime in on it

[hawgenvy]

Anytime I've gotten a new bait casting reel that I've spooled up with FC I have ridiculous backlash problems initially for sometimes an hour or more and it takes a bunch of patience to fine tune the reel (brakes vs. spool tension)  -- and half the time I think either I've bought a crappy reel or that I'm a total klutz (I actually am a klutz but not a total one), and I contemplate at that point tossing the reel or else myself weighted down into the deepest portion of the lake. But eventually and seemingly magically all of a sudden I get it dialed in perfectly and it no longer backlashes and can be thrown really far. Fluorocarb does seem to need a little more brake than spool tension. Anyway, then the reel works well forever until I try to screw around with it because I need extra distance or am casting into a headwind or something, so if I touch the controls again I'm always sorry and I feel like an idiot again. I tell ya, ks, you'll figure it out and it'll be worth it because there is nothing better than fluoro for light finessy things that you want to sink, like weightless senkos or flukes. And the stuff is sensitive, invisible, tough, etc. I use Seaguar offerings, usu #12 Red Label or AbrazX for the above weightless morsels, but I haven't really tried many others. If I can cast fluoro I know you can. Good luck.

 

Oh, BTW, for fluoro I personally recommend tying on the hook with the San Diego jam knot. Palomar is a close second. Those old clinch knots will slip or break with fluocarb. I really love the SDJ knot, even though I've never been to San Diego. If you don't know the SDJ, there are a billion you tubes on it. It's real easy. But don't do the ridiculous double jam -- the single one is perfect. Great with braid, too.

[MickD]

I only use FC on a baitcaster for casting spoons and lipless cranks, both of which cast very easily.  For everything else, mono or braid.  One problem with FC not yet mentioned is that if you do use it and get backlashes, you have to be super gentle in clearing the backlash because it takes very little tension on one of those little loops to break the line.  

 

I've used BC'ers for manymany years, and I finally gave up trying to cast spinnerbaits with it.  Life is too short for that hassle.  Congrats to anyone who can do it at all, special congrats if you can do it without concentrating on every damned cast.

 

The comment on FC on spinning outfits is on target, too, if you use anything but the light lines, like 8 # max.  The lighter lines work OK, in my opinion.  But the heavier ones will drive you nuts.  For finesse I use braid with a FC leader.  I don't notice problems from braid in front of FC, but next spool I use will be the sinking braid to see if I like it better.  Have not yet tried it.  Braid just lasts and lasts, so I don't have to change often.  For FC leaders I most often use the "leader grade" FC's, which are stiffer and more durable, but in the 10-20 range, FC line grade works fairly well, is a little more damage prone.

[hatrix]

I would have to second the Tatsu. I would also have to say it is more manageable and casts better then any copoly or mono I use. Not to mention it last a really really long time. I know everyone says any kink bend or knick in flouro and it will just break. That doesn't really seem to be true with Tatsu from my experience. I have a reel with some on it that is going on close to a year. Its not as great as it once was but it is not bad either by any means. I have kinda gotten to the point where if my line gets weird and starts acting up and I don't like it then off or goes. Tatsu is setting records in my books. Also you should always fill a casting reel with the line coming off the top of the spool.

[Mike L]

Rich

Line off the top of the spool for baitcating reels and from underneath for spinning reels. Regardless of the line you're useing.

Mike

[Fishing Rhino]

I've been using six and eight pound test InvisX fluorocarbon on my spinning reels for three or four years with zero problems, except for a couple of times when I over filled the reel.  Lesson learned in a hurry.  I might use my baitcasters once or twice a year and they are filled with braid.  I do have a couple of spinning rigs with braid, but rarely use them.

 

If fluoro was the nightmare some have said it is, they'd soon be out of business.