Clear coating

[chromedog]

As I prepare on my maiden voyage I am wondering about applying the clear coat and what type to use.

For those that dip, do you find it difficult to achieve and even finish without buildup?  What do you use?  Have you ever tried it on lures with a joint such as Jointed Rapala style or swimbaits?  Does it affect the joints?

Has anyone tried brushing on the clear coat?  Does it cause streaking?

I am hoping to stay away from spraying the clear coat as that is so toxic and is very hard on the airbrush.

[BIG M]

I brush on my clear coat and since it's a 2 part epoxy it is self leveling.

I use flex coat ultra v and it's the best for me.   Other guys will tell you about what is the best clear coat for them.   Each product and method of application has it's own + and -.   You have to figure out what will work for you.   I can only give you my expericence with Devcon and flex coat, these are the only products I've used.

[chromedog]

So it is possible to brush it on.  I was hoping so.  I hate spraying topcoat, no matter what kind.

So as long as it contains epoxy, it will self level?  I am going to head out to the hardware store and look at what they have to offer, just wanna make sure I have a direction.  I hate looking like a lost puppy and standing around for 20 minutes trying to decide, lol.

Thanks

[chromedog]

After doing some research and getting great info from you guys I just realized you guys were pretty much using a clear casting epoxy.  It is the same stuff you would pour in a mold with say some little item and create a paperweight.  Once I seen it was basically the same stuff used on bars and tables at sports bars to seal memorabilia like sports cards to a table.  I can find that stuff in my local art supply store.

[whittler]

There are three main epoxies used by most bait makers who use epoxy, Devcon2Ton, Envirotex Lite and Flexcoat w/uv protection. With E-tex or Flexcoat you will need to rotate the baits while curing and  with D2T you can just rotate by hand for 10 min. since it cures faster.

There are many other coatings being used that can be dipped, brushed or sprayed and of those Dick Nite's is at the top of the list.

Some the automotive type clears are also very good and quick drying but will require an exhaust system for spraying. Go to a local body shop and find out what protective equipment you will need before you purchase this stuff, most is quite toxic and very expensive.

[chromedog]

It is my understanding that epoxy will yellow with direct sunlight.  Do you guys experience this with the topcoats you use?

[.dsaavedra.]

if your topcoat does not have UV protectors/inhibitors, it will yellow in time. the Devcon i've used yellowed.

if you do go to the hardware store looking for epoxy, be sure to get devcon two ton, not five minute. the five minute doesn't provide enough working time, does not dry perfectly clear, and is not waterproof.

[chromedog]

Is yellowing just something we have to live with or are there plenty on the market that do include a uv protectant?

[islandbass]

It is my understanding that epoxy will yellow with direct sunlight. Do you guys experience this with the topcoats you use?

I have been using dev con for the past 4 years or so and while I have heard of the yellowing stories, I read from posts that if the two parts are equal (important) and thoroughly mixed, the yellowing possibility is greatly if not practically reduced.  I still have some of first baits that I coated and not one has yellowed... At all... and they're going on their fourth year.

I think I'll wind up losing them before they have a chance to yellow. ;D

[whittler]

The few times I have seen any yellowing with Devcon it has always been thinned with something. All three of the mentioned epoxies require that they be measured properly and mixed properly, when thats done all of them will work very well.

[bnwcrankin]

No yellowing here either with devcon. I usually loose them or have a fish take them before I get a chance to see if they yellow.. lol