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Posted

Yeah, epoxy is pretty heavy on a blade and it tends to chip off the edges very quickly because it pulls away from a sharp edge as it cures.  The absolute best topcoat I've used is a moisture cured urethane.  Very thin, very tough, won't yellow, chip resistant.  Downside is it is very hard to store between uses without hardening since any moisture introduced into the container causes it to begin to cure.  There are many threads about using and storing MCU on tackleunderground.com, a site dedicated to bait making.  You can also get a discount if you enter the Dick Nite website to order MCU using a portal listed on tackleunderground.  Dick Nite is a company that makes spoons and sells paint and topcoats to hobbyists as a sideline.  His S81 Fishermun's Lurecoat is a MCU and works great.

 

Other than MCU, I'd suggest trying a solvent based exterior grade urethane.  Not as durable, but available at home improvement stores.

Posted

I would try an outdoor poly-urethane, in a spray paint can.  Ace, Lowes, and Home Depot should all carry it.

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Posted

Well, it has to be shipped surface because it contains solvents.  I buy by the quart and the shipping is not so hurtful.  IMO, you want a solvent based coating for this job to be durable, so anything you order online will have to be shipped surface via FEDEX or similar.  If shipping is too much, I suggest a can of solvent based exterior urethane and simply dip the blades in it.  Hang them up to dry and voila.

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Posted

http://www.directcolors.com/product/ac-1315-high-gloss-concrete-sealer/

 

Above is another alternative that has become popular among some hardbait builders for topcoating crankbaits.  It's a thin solvent based coating with a high solids content, less costly than MCU and has few storage issues.  Reports are that it is durable but some say the topcoat has melted away in places when stored in a plastic bait box.  I've tried it on a couple of baits and have not had that problem but it's worth mentioning.  You makes your choices and takes your chances.

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