skillet Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 Have just lately started visiting this board regularly, got me interested in doing repaints. Have done a lot of cabinet work and did my own finishes. Have 2 compressors, large 60gal (5hp) and small portable 2gal (1 1/2hp). Both have regulators and filters. Am not sure how far they will turn down. Spraying lacquer or contact cement takes more pressure than ya'll use. Newbie questions ? 1. Remove original finish (sand)? 2.Container or gravity type gun? 3.Apparently Smith is best paint? 4.Anything helpful I might read? 5.Am going to have to come up with something for turning while drying. Do I need heat to help with drying? THANKS for any help ... skillet Quote
whittler Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 You are going to get a lot of different opinions on this but here are mine. 1. If it is a wood bait and the finish is cracked or damaged I remove it and reseal before painting. Plastic baits I sand with a sanding pad just to scuff the surface then wipe with alcohol then a tack rag and prime/paint. 2. I use gravity feed, Iwata HP-C and and HP-CS, would not reccomend a siphon gun for baits. 3. I use a lot of Smith paints along with Createx and Auto Air. 4. Practice, you will develope your own style. 5. If you use an epoxy top-coat you will need a drying wheel, unless your just doing one or two at a time with fast curing epoxy. Quote
bnwcrankin Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 I use a 30gal compressor and leave it set on 90psi. I have an inline pressure valve which I keep on 40psi. Then at my gun I use a MAC valve which I can go from about 0-40 with. This way your compressor wont turn on and off every minute. Im with idlov on the gravity fed. I use a Iwata hp-b. Iwata is really the way to go for detail! The b has a smaller cup which allow's you to waste less paint. If your using epoxy you can read post all day and everyone has a different tech. I found the easiest is to just mix the heck out of it and dont worry about bubbles. Heat the bait just a little with a blowdryer. Apply the epoxy (heating the bait a little first will pop the bubble's and allow the epoxy to go on smooth. If you have any residule bubble's just hit it with the blowdryer for a sec. and they will pop. Something to turn the bait is a must. I use an old microwave turntable motor for mine. (old microwave's a dime a dozen). Quote
BIG M Posted August 20, 2009 Posted August 20, 2009 The bigger the tank the better, you can dial the pressure down to what you need. I use a few different paints, Smith, WASCO, Createx, and Auto Air. I prefer a gravity feed brush (Iwata). Practice, practice, practice and don't be afraid to try anything. Cheap plastic baits from Janns make good practice tools. Quote
skillet Posted August 21, 2009 Author Posted August 21, 2009 Do the folks that make the paint also make the epoxy? I take it that the turning keeps the epoxy from running :-/? I have a couple of rotisserue motors from old grills ... skillet Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted August 21, 2009 Super User Posted August 21, 2009 Do the folks that make the paint also make the epoxy? I take it that the turning keeps the epoxy from running :-/? I have a couple of rotisserue motors from old grills ...skillet the most popular epoxy topcoats are Devcon 2-Ton epoxy (also used not only as topcoat but to glue in hardware and such), Envirotex Lite, and Flex Coat. you can get Devcon 2-Ton at a hardware store, you should be able to find Envirotex Lite at hobby/craft stores, and i'm pretty sure you have to buy Flex Coat online. Quote
skillet Posted August 23, 2009 Author Posted August 23, 2009 THANKS for the help! Have a starting place now ... skillet Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.