Need Help; Straight Fluoro Or Braid W/ Fluoro Leader?

[Ads7633]

For years I have fished primarily with a fluorocarbon mainline on my bait caster, and for the most part was satisfied. This past year, I was able to purchase a new bait casting combo, because of this I took my old combo and spooled it with power pro for top water fishing. It was once I started using this setup, that I began to really become frustrated with the line management of Fluorocarbon on my new setup.For me Braid just handles so much better when it comes to line memory and never back lashing. Also, It casts further, is stronger, and is more sensitive on tight lines. So, now I have become very frustrated with the Fluoro setup and I am considering changing it over to PowerPro with a Fluoro leader. I use this rod mostly to fish lipless cranks, weightless senkos & flukes, and some spinnerbaits. My real concern with switching over would be that I don't want to lose the slack line sensitivity I may need when fishing with Flukes and Senkos? Can anyone give me some advice as to whether or not this will be a big issue? If I go braid I do plan on getting Hi-Vis Yellow so that watching the line will not be difficult. Should I stay with the straight flouro, or spool it with braid and a leader? 

[MickD]

The leader will not cost you discernible sensitivity, IMHO.  It won't be long enough.  4 or 5 feet is probably more than you need, and even with that length, I don't think you will sense a difference.  Check out the two strings of posts on braid to FC knots, one quite a ways down called "Alberto knot fails ?!!", I believe.

[Ads7633]

Thanks. However, I'm not so much worried about the braid to fluoro transition knot costing me sensitivity. I am more worried, that I won't be able to feel the same "tick" as a fluke or senko falls on a slack line?

[masterbass]

I used to use braid/leader for my senko fishing exclusively, but this year switched to straight fluoro to experience the added slack line sensitivity I've read about.  The verdict?  IMO fluoro is a touch more sensitive, but there are negatives.  It's more finicky and with over runs you better be careful not to get kinks.  Line memory is an annoyance, but kvd line and lure does help a lot.  On a long cast the amount stretch has cost me hook sets.  The good stuff is expensive and with fluoro I think the good stuff is worth it over cheaper brands.  Braid/leader is plenty sensitive to me and I like the manageability of it.  I have braid that's still going strong after 3 years.  But in the end I'll probably continue to use fluoro and put up with the negatives and I'll also continue to use braid/leader on most of my combos too.  To the op, I think you'll be fine with braid/leader.

[MickD]

I was not saying that the knot will cost sensitivity.  It can't/won't. I was addressing the increased stretch of flouro compared to braid.  I still don't think it will cost you anything.  That "tick" you are mentioning is about sensitivity, being able to feel it, or even see it.  The line characteristic that affects sensitivity is the stretch.  Take it to extremes, compare a rubber band to braid.  Keep in mind that with slack line no line stretches.  It only stretches under load.  The lighter the load, as in a "tick," the less the stretch will come into play.  There are a lot of tradeoffs involved, so the best way is to try it and then you will have your own answer instead of a bunch of opinions which are often based on wrong assumptions.

 

I cannot envision a scenario in which braid + a FC leader will be less sensitive than all FC.

[Smokinal]

I use braid with fluoro leader on all my rods and wouldn't change a thing. I feel the tick all the time and catch tons of fish. I, too, tried the fluoro thing and got tired of doing a ceremony before spooling, heating it the night before, spraying it 14hrs and 17 minutes before using it, reading a story to it before going to bed, trolling with it on the morning of fishing but before your first cast and then doing all these steps over again half way through my fishing day. I just don't believe the hoops some people go through just to use this inferior line. Needless to say I have lots of leader material.

#endrant

[junyer357]

Its all personal preference really. Some love floro others only use braid. If you already have braid on your old combo, strip 10' of floro off the new one and try the leader. You already know how it throws and feels with striaght floro so it will give you a good true comparison at minimal cost.

Floro and braid have their own strengths and weaknesses. I like floro for cranks spinners and worm/jigs, but its useless for topwater. I use braid for frogs, topwater, and spinning gear. I do use a braid/floro leader on my senko setup since it is a spinning rod. Its my only one though since im not a fan of all the extra knots, mostly since i throw into tons of junk and break off or retie fairly regular.

It is a more finicky line overall though. Kvd line conditioner is a big help. I apply it midway and immedietly after respooling. Then again each nite before i go again. I still have to respool more often though with it though, especially if i have backlash issues which lead to weakspots deeper spool.

[ww2farmer]

I use braid with fluoro leader on all my rods and wouldn't change a thing. I feel the tick all the time and catch tons of fish. I, too, tried the fluoro thing and got tired of doing a ceremony before spooling, heating it the night before, spraying it 14hrs and 17 minutes before using it, reading a story to it before going to bed, trolling with it on the morning of fishing but before your first cast and then doing all these steps over again half way through my fishing day. I just don't believe the hoops some people go through just to use this inferior line. Needless to say I have lots of leader material.

#endrant

LOL.............and that's on casting gear, with spinning reels, you better have a priest, a rabbi, and a union pipe fitter on the boat with you.

[Smokinal]

LOL.............and that's on casting gear, with spinning reels, you better have a priest, a rabbi, and a union pipe fitter on the boat with you.

lol. I didn't have the strength to get into spinning setups.

[SirSnookalot]

It has not been proven to me that there is any advantage to FC, whether it be line of actual leader material.  I'm a spinning user, braid on all my reels with leader that I cut myself.   I do have a couple of set ups with mono line and FC leaders but not associated with bass or inshore fishing.

One thing I believe important with braid is keeping the rod low and under the wind, trying to keep the line as straight as possible.

[The Fisher]

I know this is off topic but If you haven't tried Silver Thread AN40 or Excalibur copolymers, especially on spinning reels, I would buy a spool and give it a try. They cast a mile, very thin and sensitive yet much more abrasion resistant than anything except braid. I love the AN40 for my senko fishing. I can feel the tick and get a good hook set. Unlike when I used fluorocarbon on my spinning set up, I never have had any line twist problems with these.

[deep]

I have absolutely zero problems with fluoro, and much better slack line sensitivity and abrasion resistance. Easy choice for me.

 

Braid is for slop and top waters.

[BobP]

I think you're right to be concerned about slack line sensitivity.  Braid transmits zero if a fish picks up your bait and swims toward you.  You'll feel something in that scenario when using fluoro or plain old copoly.  If you are fishing a shoreline from a boat, bass will often pick up your bait and swim away from the bank to deeper water - and toward you.  That's especially true of deadstick presentations like an unweighted Senko.  Braid is great stuff.  It handles well and lasts a long time.  But I think guys who insist it's the "be all, end all" line for everything are missing fish and don't know it.

[Mike L]

I have absolutely zero problems with fluoro, and much better slack line sensitivity and abrasion resistance. Easy choice for me.

 

Braid is for slop and top waters.

Ditto

Mike

[kickerfish1]

Stay with straight flourocarbon. I run this on 90% of my spinning rods and have no complaints. Just use a good quality line and treat it with line conditioner as needed. Also close the bail by hand if you aren't already doing so. Outside of a bit of extra casting distance I strongly dislike braid though many guys are the opposite.

[fishindad]

I have absolutely zero problems with fluoro, and much better slack line sensitivity and abrasion resistance. Easy choice for me.

 

Braid is for slop and top waters.

 

 X3

[deep]

I have absolutely zero problems with fluoro, and much better slack line sensitivity and abrasion resistance. Easy choice for me.

 

Braid is for slop and top waters.

 

 

I should add that I don't fish spinning gear, and fish 12# Tatsu.

 

I fish jigs a LOT; unweighted plastics hardly ever. IMO, the hardest bites to detect are the ones when the fish eats my jig off the bottom on a long cast and just sits there quietly munching on it. Of course it's not going to keep munching for ever, and I have only a fraction of a second to detect the bite and set the hook.

 

Almost as difficult to detect are the jig bites on the fall when once again the fish doesn't take off with the bait, and just sits there.

 

The thump of the jig hitting the roof of the fishes mouth is the only indication I can hope to feel. Sometimes, I'll see a slight tic or a jump of the line.

 

If the fish actually swims with the bait, I can at least see the line move.

 

My most memorable catches are actually the ones when I set the hook *without* seeing or feeling anything. Instinct I guess. Like I said, I fish jigs a LOT.

[bassr95]

I vastly prefer straight flouro for bottom contact baits like a jig or T-rig. That said, I use braid and a flouro leader on a spinning rod for senkos. The no-stretch properties of braid help with hook sets when you make a long cast with a medium power rod.