First Attempt At Photo Finish

[Ringonu]

Still need to paint the seams, add eyes and epoxy. Going to rattle can paint and hopefully won't screw it up. I used decal paper and it was pretty easy. So far I like the look of them. Will look better once I add epoxy. Never painted a lure. Hope to catch a few on on these.

[Crank Bait Nut]

Not A Big Fan Of Photo Finish Stuff , Good Job On Those , Pumpkin Seed Is Nice.

 

Mike

[AdamsEye]

Some great results for a first attempt, pretty impressive. You got nice clean lines and smooth fades, with tons of detail. Keep up the good work!

[jtharris3]

Nice job!

[Ringonu]

After spray painting the seams they don't look near as good. Oh well. Now I know. Those will be the first in the takle box I suppose. Going to paint it first then apply decals on the next one to see if they look good. May have to get a cheap airbrush.

[MickD]

May I ask what problems developed after painting the seams? Seams lifting?

 

What is the process to print onto the decal "paper?"  You print a photo onto the paper?  Have you tried Papilio's white vinyl peel and stick media?

 

I think you are very close to some really great lures.  In fact, these look great as is.  

[Ringonu]

I am using spray paint so overspray and splattering covered much of the finish. Painting under the seams look better but you can see the seams. If I had an airbrush they would look much better.

I used the instructions from tackleunderground. Used Testors decals and decal set to keep the seams down. Find a pattern online and line it up with my bait. Print and cut it out. Seal it, add to water, and peal off the pic. Takes about 10min work time, not counting dry time, per bait.

[MickD]

Neat.  I've nothing to add; you're way ahead of me.  Other than:  Exc for aesthetics, I'll bet not painting the seams will not detract from their fishing effectiveness.  And I just thought, you've thought of masking the area you want to save?

[Ringonu]

I thought about taping but it would peel off the decal. Once my epoxy gets here I will add the decal, epoxy, then paint and tape, then epoxy again. Doubt it makes a difference to the fish. I just found out to seal them well. Lost half a decal once it hit the water. Something fun to pass the time.

[MickD]

I use decals printed from my computer for fishing rods and have always had trouble with waterslides.  But this looks too good not to try again.  I think waterslides would be lighter and less apt to affect the action of a lure than the vinyl.  

 

I had a sunfish pattern lipless crank that was a killer.  I think I lost it in a pike and have never found a replacement.  This is the way to get that replacement.

 

Where do you get your lipless crank bodies?  Jann's Netcraft is where I would look not having other recommendations.  Thanks, 

[Ringonu]

Ebay. Search lure blank. Came from china. No clue on the action. For a buck each I figure they'll be good to practice on. They are 1/2oz and came with eyes. 10 for $10 seemed pretty good. If they don't work I will hang them on the xmas tree

[MickD]

Thanks, will do.  Appreciate your help.

[Ringonu]

Painting under the seams works for me.

[MickD]

Looks terrific.

 

Using an inkjet?  Clear or white background waterslide paper?

[Ringonu]

Inkjet. Must seal after printing. Laser you don't. I used white. I may do my next batch with clear and foil finish the bait first. Definitely addicting. Not adding 3d eyes to some and will to others. Just having fun and experimenting this point.

[MickD]

Inkjet. Must seal after printing. Laser you don't. I used white. I may do my next batch with clear and foil finish the bait first. Definitely addicting. Not adding 3d eyes to some and will to others. Just having fun and experimenting this point.

You do know that using a clear decal will mean you will not see whites because an inkjet cannot print white, right?  Unless your blank is already white.  I predict your decal will be less bright, but only an experiment will tell.  I ordered what I think are the same blanks you have.  I already design and make rods and tie flies, here  goes another.

 

With my decals I have to seal them, too.  I also use a little line of color preservative along the seams (after applying the sealed decal to the rod blank) to prevent lifting when the epoxy hits them.  Sometimes, I think because the epoxy stays fluid so long, the edges tend to lift if I don't do that.  

 

Some rod builders use Sally Hansen clear nail polish over decals.  Not sure what its UV resistance is, but it dries almost instantly.  I've used it for fly heads, and it works very well for that.  Another fast drying option is Permagloss or Lumaseal polyurethanes.  They are very hard and never yellow in the sun.  I'll be giving the Sally Hansen a try, I think.  It has to be tough, and with the fast dry, it should be convenient.

[Ringonu]

I will try the polish before the epoxy. Thanks for the tip.

[MickD]

If you are going to use epoxy for sure, then I recommend just covering the seam edges with the polish to prevent the epoxy from lifting the edge.  I don't know how the polish will react with your waterslides.  You may want to just try it on a test piece so you will know exactly how it will react without wasting a lure.

[Ringonu]

Crappie. Just need my epoxy to come in...

[MickD]

Very nice, that will work.

[Ringonu]

I saw someone add glitter they bought from TW to their epoxy to help reflect light. I'm debating doing that since these aren't foil finished.

[kickerfish1]

Killer job!

[Comfortably Numb]

I love them. Inspires me to try it.

 

Have you tried any more rounded cranks with compound curves?

[Ringonu]

I have not. I still have two lipless left to do then will order some cranks. Not sure if I will go with ebay cranks or janns.

[Ringonu]

Not my favorite. Probably won't use this image again. Now I just have to wait for my wake baits and square bills to get in. Still waiting on the epoxy too... I'm ready to test these out.