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Posted

Can everyone please start a list of tool needed to start, trying to keep the cost down, but don't want to short change myself either. This is what I have so far not including the wrapper/dryer.

Thanks

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Posted

The base is nice but not necessary.  I built my first ten rods or so with just the hand wrapper.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Little tip with those reamers. Make sure you check the cork or Eva before you slide it on the blank. They will sometimes deposit grit in the softer grip material, which in turn, scratches the hell out of the blank when you slide the grip on.

From all that is on that list, I only use reamers, tool kit, bottle caps, syringes, tip glue and finish.

You will need to develop a procedure you're comfortable with. For instance, I don't use brushes, I use cut up pieces of those plastic fake credit cards to apply finish.

You can eliminate the mixing sticks by nipping the end off of the brushes and using it for mixing. I use 1oz condiment serving cups for mixing the finish. I then pour it on to a foil covered board to allow the bubbles to release. Some people use to bottom of a soda can for this also.

You might want to substitute in guide tubing for the foot adhesive. It allows for adjustment when laying out a rod. The spatula set is handy for mixing adhesive and dropping dabs of finish at the ends of the guide tunnels. You will want some kind of paste epoxy, like RodBond, for attaching grips and reelseats.

I'm sure there are some tips I'm forgetting, just trying to save you from getting stuff you'll never use.

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

There are a hundred ways to apply epoxy to the wraps, and I've tried a lot of them.  I like the square ended artist's brushes available at Hobby Lobby and similar shops the best.  I recommend if you do use brushes get some brush cleaner, U40 or other.  It really works better than other ways of keeping your brushes in good shape.  Lots of paper towels and keep alcohol handy to clean up epoxy you've tracked onto the blank before it hardens.  Once hard, there's not much you can do to get it off.  Agree, paste epoxy for the structural work.  Some don't like the quick hardening type as it tends to rush the builder; some don't work that fast.  Get an Exacto handle and a bunch of blades.  I like a fly tying bodkin to get epoxy into the ends of the guide foot tunnels, but I expect your probe set has an equivalent.  Color preservative? 

 

Re the reamers, why not the Batson Dream Reamer?  A wonderful tool.  More expensive, but it will have all the sizes you will most likely ever need.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Agree on the dream reamers. I've been using them since they came out 8 or so years ago.

  • Like 1
Posted

Orthodontist bands to hold down the guides before wrapping. They are especially useful with micro guides.

Posted

Masking tape will make your life a whole lot easier. Get the half inch and trim as needed.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

There are a hundred ways to apply epoxy to the wraps, and I've tried a lot of them.  I like the square ended artist's brushes available at Hobby Lobby and similar shops the best.  I recommend if you do use brushes get some brush cleaner, U40 or other.  It really works better than other ways of keeping your brushes in good shape.  Lots of paper towels and keep alcohol handy to clean up epoxy you've tracked onto the blank before it hardens.  Once hard, there's not much you can do to get it off.  Agree, paste epoxy for the structural work.  Some don't like the quick hardening type as it tends to rush the builder; some don't work that fast.  Get an Exacto handle and a bunch of blades.  I like a fly tying bodkin to get epoxy into the ends of the guide foot tunnels, but I expect your probe set has an equivalent.  Color preservative? 

 

Re the reamers, why not the Batson Dream Reamer?  A wonderful tool.  More expensive, but it will have all the sizes you will most likely ever need.

Do u have a pic or number for these brushes

Posted

Little tip with those reamers. Make sure you check the cork or Eva before you slide it on the blank. They will sometimes deposit grit in the softer grip material, which in turn, scratches the hell out of the blank when you slide the grip on.

From all that is on that list, I only use reamers, tool kit, bottle caps, syringes, tip glue and finish.

You will need to develop a procedure you're comfortable with. For instance, I don't use brushes, I use cut up pieces of those plastic fake credit cards to apply finish.

You can eliminate the mixing sticks by nipping the end off of the brushes and using it for mixing. I use 1oz condiment serving cups for mixing the finish. I then pour it on to a foil covered board to allow the bubbles to release. Some people use to bottom of a soda can for this also.

You might want to substitute in guide tubing for the foot adhesive. It allows for adjustment when laying out a rod. The spatula set is handy for mixing adhesive and dropping dabs of finish at the ends of the guide tunnels. You will want some kind of paste epoxy, like RodBond, for attaching grips and reelseats.

I'm sure there are some tips I'm forgetting, just trying to save you from getting stuff you'll never use.

What size guide tubing

  • Super User
Posted

What size guide tubing

I have all 4 that Mudhole sells and another small one I prefer over the smallest Mudhole has. I get it at a tackle shop that sells blackbird floats. It's their float tubing, used to attach steelhead floats to your line.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I don't have pics of the brushes, just go to Hobby Lobby, similar craft store , or women's fingernail shop and look for square ended, sort of short fiber, (mine are sable or artificial sabel) in the 1/4-3/8 width range.   I bought a set of 4, 3 different widths square end and a pointed tip one that I also use for fine touch up, etc  You will have to clean them and the epoxy brush cleaners work very well  Note on sizes , I think I use a 1/4 inch for most stuff. You don't need anything over 3/8..

  • Like 1

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