starting a new hobby help

[MARSH MASTER]

For fathers day my wife is getting me started with rod building. It's something that I have been interested in for some time after seeing all the bad*** rods built on here. So I figure let me give it a go.

The thing I need is a get started list. My budget is pretty moderate I don' want to spend a whole lot of money and not enjoy it. I've been looking on mudhole at there start up kit with the dryer and other stuff. I also was planning on getting a rod kit just to farmilarize myself all the parts and steps. I haven't found a book yet so some suggestions please.    

So Im all ears                        

[cidgrad96]

ReelMech suggested Tom Kirkman's "Rod-Building Guide" in his sticky post. For the money, I don't think you can find a better book to get started.

Sky is the limit on what you can buy. Start small and see how you like it. SOme find it theraputic, some find it frustrating. BUild a couple before you make huge investments.

Read the book first. It really will help you understand what all "the stuff in the kits" is for and you can decide if you need it.

[MARSH MASTER]

I know I can read this and read that but I want to hear everybody's opinion.

[cidgrad96]

No offense, but you're reading here. That book is an absolute great source of information.

If you really want LOTS of good info, go to www.rodbuilding.org. It's way more than you will ever sit and read. If you want lots of input, do a search for new builder posts look through that, then post there. Lots of guys with many years of experience.

You can go as basic as you want, or full tilt.

Hand wrapper

Drying motor

Epoxy brush or spatula

rod finish

rod bond or equivalent

thread

burnishing tool

razor blades

reamers

color protector (optional)

You could probably get by with that (and I may be forgetting something). I started with one of the mudhole kits and it was everything I needed for my first few rods. When I found I really loved building, it slowly grew. More rods than I care to count later, I have about 300 sq ft of my house dedicated to rodbuilding... rod lathe, wood lathe, more tools than I could use because you always need a back up, wall mounted drying rack... and so on.

[ejtaylor822]

Like cidgrad96 said, start with Kirkman's book.  It's about the best you can find.  Also, there is a TON of great information on the web.  Google "rod making" and enjoy - you will spend the next several hours going through just a portion of these.  Also, I think it was Mudhole that may have some video tutorials on rod making on their site.

For starting out you can make your own rod wrapper.  I made mine literally from scrap lumber I stashed in the garage.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1204259464/0#0

I made it with the anticipation of being temporary and buying something nicer if I really got into rod building.  I still use it and every rod I have ever built has been wrapped on it.  Have no intention of replacing.  The only modification is that I now use alligator clips for thread tension on the springs.  You can get a dryer motor off ebay for about $20, or, I noticed recently that Mudhole now has a nice selection of motors.

Adding to what cidgrad96 said, starting with a kit is a good idea.  You get all the components and they are matched pretty good.  However, what you usually get are the components and not a lot, if any instructions.  Another option, that might save a few $$$ is to go with:

- Mudhole OEM blank

- Fuji Alconite guide set (BLNAG-129 (casting) or BYAG-309 (spinning) for 6'-7'rods)

- BFAT top with a size 6 ring to match the guide set-tube size will have to be sized to match blank

- Handles & reel seat (St. Croix has some nice ones where all you have to do is ream-otherwise select your cork grips and a Fuji TCSD-17 reel seat - my preference)

- FlexCoat lite build kit (w/ syringes) for finishing guide wraps - 4 oz kit will work.  Drill 5/32" hole (assuming have not changed) in the caps, insert syringes, turn the bottle upside down and load up.  Keep the syringes in the cap for storage and get perfect measurements every time.

- brushes for applying finish - hobby quality are fine

- Size "A" thread for guide wraps - I prefer Gudebrod

- razor for trimming thread wraps

- good file for shaping guide feet

- Medium size reamer

- Devcon 2-ton or equivalent for attaching grips and reel seat to blank - can also use for tip top.  (I prefer Rod Bond and flexcoat tiptop glue, but, 2-ton will work fine.)

You can get by without a drying motor if you apply thin coats (yes multiple for best look) of finish.  Once finish is applied, leave with the guides up (just my habit for a reference point) for 7 mins and wipe off excess on the bottom - lightly touching the "drooping" finish and not touching the blank - if I got it on too heavy.  After that I turn a quarter turn every 4 minutes.  After half hour or so, just have to watch and see how its setting up, can turn every 15 mins.  After an hour to an hour and a half, can let sit, but, once again need to watch how it is drying.

Hope this helps.

Eddie

[cidgrad96]

If you are really on a budget, get a bucket, cut a v notch in each side, and use a thick book for your thread tensioner.

There are a lot of factory rods wrapped in this fashion!!!

Adding to Eddie... I know plenty of guys who made their own wrappers. It's not hard to build something basic and a good way to save a few dollars.

[flechero]

here are a couple old posts that address some of the getting started stuff.

justtrying,

I get my cork and Threadmaster from Andy Dear at Lamar: http://www.lamarreelseats.com/ He's a super friendly and helpful. If you want to order everything from one place, I believe Bingham and 1 or 2 others now carry Andy's products.

edited to add that lamar is no longer selling retail, try www.fishsticks4u, bingham or one of the supplies at RBO

As far as what you "need" for building rods... kind of a loaded question. You could get by with a couple v blocks, a phone book for tension, and a cork reamer. But that's no fun!

Tom Kirkland's book would have been my first suggestion but you have that.

You will "want" to (if you shape your own grips) to set up a makeshift lathe. My first was a drill clamped to a board with a dryer vent hose clamp and used an 18" drill bit as a mandrel wich was supported by a block of wood with hole in it. ...lol It worked great but I changed because I wanted to pre drill my cork to 1/2" for glueing and turning. Now I use another drill and a 1/2" grade 5 bolt that has had the head cut off and has been trued for size.

If you have a lathe, disregard all the above and get a lathe mandrel from Andy Dear. ....lol All you need for shaping is sandpaper, but I like to start with a Stanley shurform blade (looks like a cheese grater)

For wrapping, I started with a cardboard box with 2 V notches cut out and ran the thread under a book for tension. It worked fine but I didn't like the idea of the thread getting dirty from the book and box. You can buy a wrapper (manual) from many places, but the best ones will be home made. If you go to the rodbuilding.org site and look in the library there is a step by step on building a wrapper. Cheap and easy and it will serve you well. Thread tension can be checked with sinkers... 3.5 - 4 oz is a safe and workable setting. You MUST have a good (new) razorblade for cutting thread as you wrap... it is the difference between perfect and crappy. I use a new blade as soon as I notice 1 cut that the thread leaves a fuzz or trailer.

A rod turner/dryer is very handy, and I would suggest one. Lots of guys and lots of professional rodbuilders don't use one, they turn by hand. But since we only work on one at a time, it's no fun to sit there for 2 hours watching finish cure. ...lol I am a fan of low speed... I use 3rpm and 6rpm. The 3 was made from a BBQ rotiserie motor purchased at Lowe's for under $20 (on closeout) and came with the stands. I only added a small scrap of wood with felt on top to the stand. The 6rpm is a Flexcoat and was purchased retail.

Reamers are essential. The best are made from scrap blank with sandpaper spiral wrapped and glued... but new builders don't normally have scrap blanks. I bought my first ones from Cabela's, they were not real expensive so I bought all 3 sizes. (and have needed all 3 sizes)

For guide prep, I have tried lots of things and the easiest to use and best results came from my gunsmithing files which are just a set of Craftsman needle files and some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

i'm having a terrible time getting "tight wraps" ....i try to wrap the last three or four wraps over a string, then pull the end under those wraps, but, it doesn't seem to work so well for me..i guess practice will help w/that.

Check your tension first. (3.5 - 4 oz) Then be sure to hold a finger on the thread as you cut it and put tag end through loop, and be sure to pull on tag end while you pull loop (yes, 3 hands would be perfect for this but you can keep tension on tag end and hold rod from spinning with one hand) lastly, 3 wraps will hold the end but on anything other than trim bands, I use more... usually 5. I practiced in the beginning using up to like 8-9 to get comfortable with it and then went less. It will come very quickly with a minimum of practice... if tension is good and you hold tension while pulling loop. Also be sure to pack your thread as you wrap... I pack on about every 4th or 5th wrap (I use thumbnail as I go) The tighter you pack the thread, the better it looks and the better it will hold the tag end that you pulled under.

There are several ways to turn cork... You can buy a lathe or set up an old drill for a cheap and easy cork turning station. The pics show a drill mounted to a board with a dryer vent's hose clamp. I turn most of my grips on this one. I use a 1/4" mandrel or a 1/2" mandrel (the 1/2" is made from a high grade bolt with the head removed and size trued.)

this one is the set up clamped to a rubbermaid bin to catch the debris and showing the tools I use for shaping. I start with the sureform (cheese grater) to remove epoxy and quickly reduce size - then to the drywall screen for almost all the final sizing and any contours or rounding... I have better luck doing this part by freehand than with any jigs. After that it depends on who it's for if I go to sandpaper. The correct speed with a drywall screen leaves a velvet like texture that I like.

You can put a coat of automotive wax on the mandrel to prevent sticking of the epoxy or if you are careful you can glue up on a 1/4" threaded rod or bolt with a wing nut. I always get a little on the bolt but it breaks loos easily enough if I hold the bolt head with a wrench and "unscrew" the cork. ...lol

Good luck, have fun and don't forget... to take pics along the way!

Keith

Yes, I always reshape guide feet. Among other things, it helps the thread climb up more evenly. I use a small needle files on the ramp and chainsaw files on the bottom to shape for the blank. It only takes about 30-60 seconds per guide foot, once you get the hang of it. The only caution I have is that if you file or grind it "too perfect" you'll have a very sharp edge which could cause a blank failure later. (400-600 grip paper can be used to round back out the sharp edge)

And on black guides, I always re-color them for consistency.

[MARSH MASTER]

Thanx fellas hope to have my first rod built in a few weeks. I will defently post some pics and there will be some help needed so I'll be in tuoch.