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Posted

Hey guys. So I just recently (about a month ago) started fishing for bass. And since have experimented with a lot of different lures. And I have fell in love with the top water. I've had a lot of success with a pop-r in shad color. I have a few questions about my set up.

1. my rod is a 6'8" duckett ghost MH. Not sure what the tip is but it seems very sensitive. And I know the length might be a little short but I don't have a boat and so to avoid slapping the tip of my rod on the ground I needed something shorter.

2. My reel is an okuma Citrix in a 7.3.1 gear ratio, with 40 lb power pro braid.

Is this what I'm looking for as far as top water lures? I mostly throw pad crashes, poppers and soft plastic frogs.

Another question is, how can I get a maximum cast distance? I see videos where it looks like these guys are heaving those frogs a mile.

And I cast mine an alright distance but I want to try and get the max out of it.

So if anyone has any ideas or can help me out I really appreciate it. I'm new to the forums and bass fishing so I'm like a sponge ready for information where I can get it ha. Thanks ahead of time for any help offered!

  • Super User
Posted

For the Booyah  and soft plastic frogs the braid is perfectly fine at 40lbs. The popper since its a treble hook bait, you may have want to loosen the drag a bit and not set too hard risking pulling the hooks. As far as rod length, I personally use 7ft for my bank fishing applications. 

 

Lastly, welcome to BR. 

Posted

Ok so I want to loosen the drag when fishing the popper only? Also I guess I should have mentioned that my magnetic braking system is on free. I just want that extra 10-15ft in my cast distance it seems everyone else is getting. Also is my rod and reel combo right for top water? Should I get a 7ft heavy action? Or is what I have sufficient?

  • Super User
Posted

I think 40lb on a 6'8" MH is probably good for frogs from the bank. I sling 50lb on a 7' MH for my frog bank fishing. Works just fine.

Posted

Ok awesome. Just want to make sure I'm on the right track. And as far as casting distance is there any trick to getting it out there far or is that due to only having bought a 100$ reel? And 1 more thing, the place where I'm fishing is a man made lake pond ha and it's mostly for flood protection from the surrounding mountains. The WDFW stock it with trout. And there are a couple other fish species in there but my question is. We are going through a drought in my area and because of that the water has drop severely (5-10ft in places). When I first started fishing there the bass were hitting like crazy. Now I'm lucky to catch 2-3 in a 4 hr period so where are the fish going?

Posted

your casting distance depends on way too many variables. Rod power, length and taper, line diameter and type, reel specifications, lure weight, shape and size, as well as your technique, just to name a few of the important ones.

As far as your lake is concerned, if the water level dropped that severely, i would imagine the bass is heading to deeper parts of the lake, maybe parts that are out of your casting range.

  • Super User
Posted

Ok so I want to loosen the drag when fishing the popper only? Also I guess I should have mentioned that my magnetic braking system is on free. I just want that extra 10-15ft in my cast distance it seems everyone else is getting. Also is my rod and reel combo right for top water? Should I get a 7ft heavy action? Or is what I have sufficient?

 

Yes, I would loosen the drag a bit on the popper. On the frogs I would tighten enough that it doesn't slip on hookset but peel if the fish surges hard close to the boat. As far as the power of your rod is concerned, that will depend on the density of the coverage you are fishing. I would stay with what you have if you are fishing a popper on the same outfit. The setting of your reel with these heavier baits, depending on the reel you have can be set as low as 0-3, just like you currently have.

  • Super User
Posted

Yes, I would loosen the drag a bit on the popper. On the frogs I would tighten enough that it doesn't slip on hookset but peel if the fish surges hard close to the boat. As far as the power of your rod is concerned, that will depend on the density of the coverage you are fishing. I would stay with what you have if you are fishing a popper on the same outfit. The setting of your reel with these heavier baits, depending on the reel you have, can be set as low as 0-3, just like you currently have.

Posted

Yes, I would loosen the drag a bit on the popper. On the frogs I would tighten enough that it doesn't slip on hookset but peel if the fish surges hard close to the boat. As far as the power of your rod is concerned, that will depend on the density of the coverage you are fishing. I would stay with what you have if you are fishing a popper on the same outfit. The setting of your reel with these heavier baits, depending on the reel you have can be set as low as 0-3, just like you currently have.

Ok. Thanks a lot for all your help!

Posted

your casting distance depends on way too many variables. Rod power, length and taper, line diameter and type, reel specifications, lure weight, shape and size, as well as your technique, just to name a few of the important ones.

As far as your lake is concerned, if the water level dropped that severely, i would imagine the bass is heading to deeper parts of the lake, maybe parts that are out of your casting range.

Wow didn't know there was so much too it. But I appreciate the information.

And hopefully I can get some kind of boat than if they're going deep. Thanks.

Posted

Rod length has a lot to do with casting distance as well. The longer the rod the longer the cast.

 

ok. i knew i should gotten the 7' or even longer. i just didnt want to be hitting the rod tip on the ground when i fish from shore..

maybe ill add that to a wish list. thanks

Posted

I'm not quite sure why you would be slapping the ground with the tip of the rod. Had you said there's not a lot of overhead clearance then I would understand that reasoning.

  • Like 1
Posted

The more line between your rod tip, and your lure, the further your cast will be. The less tension on the spool, the faster it will spin and your lure can travel. To fast = backlash.

 

Are you noticing a difference in distance between a soft frog versus a hollow bodied or popper? Or is this more of an overall distance issue?

Posted

I'm not quite sure why you would be slapping the ground with the tip of the rod. Had you said there's not a lot of overhead clearance then I would understand that reasoning.

When I say slapping the ground that's cause when using a popper or frog I'm pointing the rod tip down and jerking down slightly to pop or walk the frog

Posted

The more line between your rod tip, and your lure, the further your cast will be. The less tension on the spool, the faster it will spin and your lure can travel. To fast = backlash.

 

Are you noticing a difference in distance between a soft frog versus a hollow bodied or popper? Or is this more of an overall distance issue?

There's definitely a difference in distance between the 3. The hollow bodied pad crashed casts the farthest but not by much to the plastic. And the popper is even shorter than the plastic. I have my magnetic brakes on free and the spool drag isn't that tight at all. My frog or whatever I'm using will hit the ground pretty quick if I take my thumb off the clutch. (Excuse me if that's the wrong word for it)

Posted

There's definitely a difference in distance between the 3. The hollow bodied pad crashed casts the farthest but not by much to the plastic. And the popper is even shorter than the plastic. I have my magnetic brakes on free and the spool drag isn't that tight at all. My frog or whatever I'm using will hit the ground pretty quick if I take my thumb off the clutch. (Excuse me if that's the wrong word for it)

 

With the tension set your bait should fall slowly. When the bait hits the water it should stop falling and the spool should have just enough tension on it to prevent it from over running. This is the way I set up all my baitcast reels; Rod out horizontal to the water with the bait a few inches from the tip. I like to start with the tension higher then needed, and decrease it with the spool released until it starts to fall slowly. I like to dial them so the spool stops with out over running and leaves my bait mostly in the water.

 

I would start there, dial that tension knob to the bait your are throwing. See what kind of difference it has, might work might not.

Posted

With the tension set your bait should fall slowly. When the bait hits the water it should stop falling and the spool should have just enough tension on it to prevent it from over running. This is the way I set up all my baitcast reels; Rod out horizontal to the water with the bait a few inches from the tip. I like to start with the tension higher then needed, and decrease it with the spool released until it starts to fall slowly. I like to dial them so the spool stops with out over running and leaves my bait mostly in the water.

 

I would start there, dial that tension knob to the bait your are throwing. See what kind of difference it has, might work might not.

That's how I do it when I change lures. But it casts just a little farther when it's not as tight. Maybe it's just me ha. I'm going at 5a.m so I'll try a couple different things and let you guys know.

Posted

What's the weight difference in what your throwing?

The weight difference is quite a bit. The frogs are kinda heavy. And the popper is very light. Not exact on the actual weights. I'll have to look that up.

  • Super User
Posted

Poppers don't have to be light, many weights and sizes are available.  The distance comes from the profile of the lure, a 3/4 oz pencil popper is going to cast further than a frog of the same weight, less air resistance.  That 3/4 oz pencil popper won't cast as far as a 3/4 oz kastmaster, thinner profile and less resistance.

When I'm fishing a popper I'm matching the lure to the rod, for bass fishing I like a chug bug, I think they get some pretty good distance too.

Posted

Update. I went out this morning bright and early (4a.m) an was fishing my frogs. I tryed a couple different things when casting and it seems the easier i try and toss it the farther it goes. when i really tried to whip it, it barley went anywhere so i think i worked it out. caught some good fish this morning too. also i noticed something maybe a little weird. on about the 3rd fish i caught (decent size. about 14'') when i was removing the hook from its mouth i noticed a big gash on its back. and it was definetly fresh. there was stiill a little bit of blood coming out of it. also its tail was all banged up and bloody too. are other bigger bass trying to eat these size ones? or is something else happening? i dont think anything in this lake is big enough to eat that big of a bass

  • Like 1
Posted

Update. I went out this morning bright and early (4a.m) an was fishing my frogs. I tryed a couple different things when casting and it seems the easier i try and toss it the farther it goes. when i really tried to whip it, it barley went anywhere so i think i worked it out. caught some good fish this morning too. also i noticed something maybe a little weird. on about the 3rd fish i caught (decent size. about 14'') when i was removing the hook from its mouth i noticed a big gash on its back. and it was definetly fresh. there was stiill a little bit of blood coming out of it. also its tail was all banged up and bloody too. are other bigger bass trying to eat these size ones? or is something else happening? i dont think anything in this lake is big enough to eat that big of a bass

 

It doesn't have to be another fish trying to eat it.  Open wounds on the back could signify a bird attack, or perhaps it got too close to the bank and was hit by a four legged critter.

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