Help Installing Gps On/off Switch?

[iabass8]

I am having an issue that I'm pretty sure I've narrowed it down to the Humminbird GPS puck drawing power.

 

I currently have a 24v 82# trolling motor /w two 29 deep cycle batteries and a 31 AGM bluetop /w 200 reserve that has all electronics hooked up to it. also have a 3 bank 15a dual pro onboard charger that I plug in after every outing. all gps and sonars don't stay on boat when not in use. They are removed and put in locker. 

 

Fishfinder in question is a Humminbird 595c GPS /w lakemaster chip that is used at the helm. Fishfinder at bow doesn't have GPS.

 

After tinkering, here's what I've found:

 

I can get to the ramp and not start up my electronics, fire up the outboard (Johnson 175 fast strike) and then turn the GPS on, everything is fine. Charges fine making runs.

 

If I get to the ramp, turn on the GPS before starting the outboard, I get either a "low voltage" or the voltage is around 12.1 according to the gps. It will fire up though but it feels like its really trying.  Charges up fine during a run.

 

If I leave the GPS unit on, it will kill the battery and I've had to jump it twice. Both times I will get to the ramp right after and the battery is fully charged.

 

If I get to a spot, turn the GPS off, I have no issues starting the outboard.

 

From what I've researched(and I've read 2 different opinions on this), the GPS humminbird puck is either constantly trying to find my location and draws a lot from my battery or when I start the GPS up, it's drawing a lot of amps from the battery. I've also read an outboard should always be started /w electronics off.....makes sense but news to me.

 

I have a ranger 482 that I would like to install an on/off switch for the GPS in question. I have a spare shorelander rocker switch that is 6 pins on the bottom and a  3 click top that has 2 positions for :on" and then off is in the middle. it says 12 vdc/24vdc below the yellow and 15a/10a below the red. each side has 2 pins and then theres 2 more in the middle on each side. Everything is hooked up to a breakbox /w blade fuses.I've checked the connections and changed the fuses as well. The TM is on its own breaker box and nothing runs off those batteries except the TM.

 

Open to suggestions as this is beyond irritating but it seems a lot of people have this issue and installing a switch almost always seems to be the answer. I've tried to find any info on how to do this specifically but I cannot find anything. My father-in-law is an electrician so doing it correctly shouldn't be an issue but he isn't boat savvy. Can anybody give me a rundown on how to do it?

[Wayne P.]

You narrowed it down to nothing. The Humminbird GPS puck does not "draw power". It is supported directly from the unit. Any power usage is done by the display.  

 

The unit has a power button, use it if you don't want the unit operating. It turns off the whole unit.

 

If you don't have a large enough or healthy enough battery to support the unit and start the engine, Get a bigger battery or a least maintain the one you have.

 

Bottom line is fix your power issue, it is not the GPS antenna.

 

You have this discontinued unit:

 

http://www.humminbird.com/Products/595c-Combo/

[iabass8]

You narrowed it down to nothing. The Humminbird GPS puck does not "draw power". It is supported directly from the unit. Any power usage is done by the display.  

 

If you don't have a large enough or healthy enough battery to support the unit and start the engine, Get a bigger battery or a least maintain the one you have.

 

Bottom line is fix your power issue, it is not the GPS antenna.

I was afraid you might say that.

 

I don't do a lot of "running and gunning" on the river. I can be on the TM for 2-3 hours and that's the time it seems to be an issue. if I'm on the TM for hours and then turn the GPS on before starting the outboard, i get a low voltage and it's a flip of a coin if the outboard will start.

 

I believe I have more than enough of battery. it's a group 31 800cca/1000mca /w 200 reserve AGM. It's on a charger when not in use at home.

 

I can charge them to full, leave them off the charger for a while and it will stay full. If I turn on the GPS at the helm, the power drops quickly according to the charger. 

 

what would you suggest?

[tomustang]

How old is the battery?

[iabass8]

How old is the battery?

all batteries are less than 2 weeks old

[Wayne P.]

You probably have the unit power cord connected to the boat wiring harness. That is the first mistake.

 

Next is the fit of the display on the quick disconnect mount and the power cord plug that is in it.

 

The quickest and easiest fix is to remove the display from the mount, locate the power cord plug with its two pins. Very gently and very little, adjust the two power cord pins in any direction. Do it so little you cannot tell you did. Use a pencil point.

The little pins still have to line up with the little holes in the display receptacle---LOOK at them.

Replace the display.

 

Next disconnect the power cord from the boat wiring harness. extend the power cord directly to the battery with at least 14 gauge marine grade wire--solder and waterproof the splices. Put a spade type fuse/holder at the battery with a 3A fuse on the positive wire (red).

 

Those two will solve your unit issue.

[iabass8]

You probably have the unit power cord connected to the boat wiring harness. That is the first mistake.

 

Next is the fit of the display on the quick disconnect mount and the power cord plug that is in it.

 

The quickest and easiest fix is to remove the display from the mount, locate the power cord plug with its two pins. Very gently and very little, adjust the two power cord pins in any direction. Do it so little you cannot tell you did. Use a pencil point.

The little pins still have to line up with the little holes in the display receptacle---LOOK at them.

Replace the display.

 

Next disconnect the power cord from the boat wiring harness. extend the power cord directly to the battery with at least 14 gauge marine grade wire--solder and waterproof the splices. Put a spade type fuse/holder at the battery with a 3A fuse on the positive wire (red).

 

Those two will solve your unit issue.

Thank you for your help.

 

Why am I slightly moving the pins on the power cord? I'll do it, I'm just curious as to why.

 

I know for certain the electronics are hooked up to the boats fuse block in the back hatch. i can pull the 3a fuse and they shut off.Should I run both bow/helm devices to the battery on 2 separate 14g wires or just the GPS? The fuse block just says 3amp and then "green" which i assume is a dictation for the green wiring running from the fuse to the harness. I just have to find out where power cord at the GPS and the green ire are connected. Researching this issue a little more, it appears wiring directly to the battery is something that the previous owner should have done. i'll be near a Home Depot tomorrow so picking up the 14g wire and fuse holder won't be an issue.  Is there much of a difference in soldering to the battery vs using 2 separate ring connectors coming from the 14g wire?

 

also, while i'm in there, should i install a master on/off rocker switch for the electronic devices running to the battery?

[Scott F]

Since your father-in-law is an electrician, get him to bring his amp meter and check the amperage draw at the battery with your electronics on and off. You may have another item drawing current all the time like a bilge pump or livewell pump. You could even have a short someplace that isn't bad enough to cause a fuse to blow, but enough to drain your battery.

[Wayne P.]

Each unit should have its own dedicated power run to the battery unless you install a dedicated power block just for the electronics.

NO switches. The units have a power button. That is all you need.

 

You don't solder to the battery, you solder the wire splices. Yes use ring terminals at the battery.

 

Explain why you keep referring to the GPS antenna being powered?

Are your two units sharing a GPS antenna that is connected to an INTERLINK box ?

If so then that can be powered by the boat wiring harness fuse panel and shut off with the main power switch.

[iabass8]

Since your father-in-law is an electrician, get him to bring his amp meter and check the amperage draw at the battery with your electronics on and off. You may have another item drawing current all the time like a bilge pump or livewell pump. You could even have a short someplace that isn't bad enough to cause a fuse to blow, but enough to drain your battery.

I will definitely be doing that. 

 

I don't really ever use my livewells to be honest. They are almost always shut and I open them on occasions just to clean them out. 

 

I have 2 bilge switches on the dash that I don't touch too often. Would the bilge still draw amperage if I don't turn them on? I rarely have to use them. 

 

Each unit should have its own dedicated power run to the battery unless you install a dedicated power block just for the electronics.

NO switches. The units have a power button. That is all you need.

 

You don't solder to the battery, you solder the wire splices. Yes use ring terminals at the battery.

 

Explain why you keep referring to the GPS antenna being powered?

Are your two units sharing a GPS antenna that is connected to an INTERLINK box ?

If so then that can be powered by the boat wiring harness fuse panel and shut off with the main power switch.

It's probably just my ignorance but I just assumed since GPS puck is wired to a plug that attaches to the unit, I could switch it on and off almost like plugging it in and unplugging it. I just read quite a few instances stating that these GPS pucks draw amperage and installing a master on/off switch fixed the issue as the GPS was still pulling from the battery even if the unit was powered off. Seemed odd to me but I'm not an expert at this. 

[Scott F]

I will definitely be doing that. 

 

I don't really ever use my livewells to be honest. They are almost always shut and I open them on occasions just to clean them out. 

 

I have 2 bilge switches on the dash that I don't touch too often. Would the bilge still draw amperage if I don't turn them on? I rarely have to use them. 

 

 

The bilge pumps should not draw current if they are turned off but SOMETHING is not working right or your batteries would not be draining so quickly. An automatic bilge pump that has a float switch stuck in the "on" position will be running with no water in the bilge. If you find a current draw when everything is supposed to be off, you'll have to pull fuses one at a time to narrow down your search.

[Wayne P.]

I will definitely be doing that. 

 

I don't really ever use my livewells to be honest. They are almost always shut and I open them on occasions just to clean them out. 

 

I have 2 bilge switches on the dash that I don't touch too often. Would the bilge still draw amperage if I don't turn them on? I rarely have to use them. 

 

It's probably just my ignorance but I just assumed since GPS puck is wired to a plug that attaches to the unit, I could switch it on and off almost like plugging it in and unplugging it. I just read quite a few instances stating that these GPS pucks draw amperage and installing a master on/off switch fixed the issue as the GPS was still pulling from the battery even if the unit was powered off. Seemed odd to me but I'm not an expert at this. 

Humminbird GPS antennas connect to the display directly-typically, They use no power separately. When the unit is off, so is the antenna.

If you have two units connected together to share GPS data, that data box (AS INTERLINK) is powered and needs a disconnect switch--it can be the boat fuse panel.

The antenna is not powered then, just the data box.

 

Those "quite a few instances" are other brands that do their external GPS antenna connections differently-does not apply to Humminbird.  I think the old way that Lowrance did it was with a powered antenna 8-10 years ago and then later a powered network.

[iabass8]

Humminbird GPS antennas connect to the display directly-typically, They use no power separately. When the unit is off, so is the antenna.

If you have two units connected together to share GPS data, that data box (AS INTERLINK) is powered and needs a disconnect switch--it can be the boat fuse panel.

The antenna is not powered then, just the data box.

 

Those "quite a few instances" are other brands that do their external GPS antenna connections differently-does not apply to Humminbird.  I think the old way that Lowrance did it was with a powered antenna 8-10 years ago and then later a powered network.

Thank you for your help Wayne. I glanced over at the humminbird forums are saw people have the same issues and your recommendations for running to the battery were the fix. 

 

I picked up 50' of some 14-2 coated copper wire(i figured 6-7 ft for the helm to battery and 17ft for the bow to battery. Only comes in rolls of 25 and 50 at Menards. better to safe than sorry with the larger roll), 4 new ring connectors and 2 waterproof 3 amp blade fuse holders that i got a prop shop, and heat shrink tube. Father in law has a solder and crimper so I'm good to go. electrical guy at the prop shop said that it is most likely what you described and to also check the bilge fuses. I'll let you know if the problem persists. 

[iabass8]

Hats off to you Wayne!

 

Returned the 14-2. my mistake....

 

Picked up 4 rolls of marine grade 14 AWG tin coated copper wire that only come in 18' rolls. Prop shop had some really nice waterproof encased fuse holders with the wire running through it. 

 

Spent the better part of the afternoon beating my head against the wall not getting any power. one of my inline fuses was bad that goes from the positive of the helm GPS to the positive of the battery. Swapped it out and it started right up. I watched the voltage meter on the GPS and it read 13.8 initially and gradually dropped little by little until it finally stabilized on 12.8-13.0 off the charger. Let it sit for over an hour and it didn't budge! I used the bow tilt/trim, the trim and the steering wheel and checked to make sure all accessories were still working. Voltage would drop to 12.6-12.7 but would almost immediately jump back up and stabilized at 12.8.  Got the cables all set up and soldered but Thunderstorms are coming so running them will have to wait. At least it looks like the I have fixed the problem. Father-in-law was taking a look at the bow light switch on my front deck and noticed that the port for the light doesn't work. News to me as the only light I've ever used is the port on the stern by the motor. Now he wants to fix that and possibly re-do the fuse panel...should be interesting but at least he's an electrician. 

 

Thanks again for all your help Wayne!