Deep Setup

[coreyshanahan]

Hey everybody

I'm wanting to set up an arsenal to be able to reach deeper summer fish and I realize to deep crank I'd really need a low gear ratio reel around a 5.3:1 - 5.6:1 but at that speed is there anything else I would be able to do effectively technique-wise?? Just don't want to spend $100+ to only be able to deep crank right now but will if I have to. (Think I'll be getting Lew's LFS unless anyone knows a better $100 reel for this type fishing).

Also, I'm pretty sure about getting another Duckett Ghost as the rod (already have one in 7' MH) but have thought about the Veritas as well (opinions?). For deep cranking and such, what would be a good rod length, action, power, etc.? 

Thanks for any feedback, trying to expand my reach to deep fishing but need a little help before I invest

[frogflogger]

everyone has their favorite set-ups - I use a 7'11" Rick Clunn rod and an old browning 5:1 reel for deep cranking - it's an okay set-up - I like the length for long casts which are important for getting maximum depth.

[Wes_C7]

You could use that reel to throw an A rig, but would need to put it on a stiffer rod. As for a deep cranking rod, I love my 7'11" micro magic

[iceintheveins]

I use a Curado I 5.5:1 and a Halo 7'11" MH Cranking model. Bombs casts out there a long way, I love it. Sensitive and light as well.

[WRB]

Define deep; 20', 25', 30', 35' or deeper?

If you are trying to get a deep diving crankbait deeper more than 20', it's not going to stay down for more than a yards unless you are trolling. The true big deep divers don't get down more than 25' on a very long cast, over 50 yards and don't stay at that depth very long. You will need a longer crankbait rod rated heavy for the big deep divers and a 300 size casting reel.

Lots of lures sink on there own and will go to whatever depth you want and stay down.

Jigs

Swimbaits

Scroungers*

Spoons

T-rig, C-rig,drop shot etc worms.

Sinking or weighted crank-baits.

Tom

* xtreme lures 1 & 1 1/4 oz Scrounger with 6" swimbait trailer works good

[papajoe222]

Here is what I've found out through experience. Low gearing on a baitcaster does reduce the amount of work when fishing deep cranks. I started out with a 3.9:1 Curado. Great reel, but I found that it took quite a while to get the bait down to it's running depth.  I moved up to a 4.9:1 and things improved a little. I didn't notice much difference in the amount of effort on my part when reeling, but it still took a while to get the bait down to running depth.  Now I use a 6.3:1 that retrieves 28in. of line per turn.  I have to work harder and I now tuck the rod against my hip with my elbow when reeling to avoid excess strain on my wrist. Cranks designed to get to running depth quickly do so and even my old standby DD22's seem to.  A long rod is a benefit in more ways than one, but the biggest is in increased casting distance.  I used a 7'6" cranking stick for years and just ordered a 7'11" M/H Mod/Fast

If you know someone that uses a low gear reel, ask to try it. Using one is the only way to determine if you will like using one.  They can also be used for slow rolling spinnerbaits and swim jigs.

[kikstand454]

Yeah. ..as stated above, its not so much the SPEED you're trying to change in this situation, its the torque you're trying to compensate for. The low ratio makes deep cranking comfortable.

[WRB]

The reason a 300 size baitcasting reel works better making long casts with any lure is line capacity.

When a reel is full the diameter of the top layer of line is as large as it gets, the circumference is longer = maximum inch per tern of the reel handle; IPT. Every reel is rated IPT at full spool capacity.

Reel sizes; 100, 200 and 300 are generally small, medium and large size baitcasting reels used for bass fishing. Size is the spool diameter and width = line capacity.

When you cast any reel a distance the line that is cast reduces the spooled line diameter = reduced circumference and reduced IPT regardless of the gear ratio.

If you use a 100 size reel and cast off 1/2 of the line capacity at 50 yards, the spooled line on the reel is about 1/3rd smaller diameter, therefor about 1/3rd reduced IPT. 6.3:1 gear ratio = 24 IPT full spool, is 16" IPT when you start your retreive. 300 size reel, you cast 50 yards is about 1/4 of the line capacity, the spool diameter is reduced about 1/8 IPT. 5.8:1 gear ratio = 26 IPT at full spool is reduced to about 22" IPT or very little change.

The larger size 300 reel also has wider handles that give the angler the torque need to retreive deep diving lures and the IPT to maintain retrieve speeds without wearing you out and helps to control the bass.

More to gear ratio's than meets the eye.

I use 8:1 ratio, size 100 reel for jig fishing when making long cast, allows me to get better hook sets and control big bass. Prefer the smaller light weight reel for jigs and larger round reels for crankbaits and swimbaits.

Tom

[Catt]

David Fritts & Mark Davis: Lews BB1

Paul Elias: Pinnacle LTE

[thomas15]

Can someone offer up line recommendations?

[MemphisFF]

Can someone offer up line recommendations?

#12 fluro is usually my deep crank line.. Does well

[iceintheveins]

I like 10 pound Tatsu for deep cranks, it's pricey but it's worth it.

[iceintheveins]

Yeah. ..as stated above, its not so much the SPEED you're trying to change in this situation, its the torque you're trying to compensate for. The low ratio makes deep cranking comfortable.

 

Correct! Crankbaits like 6xds and bigger do put quite a bit of strain on you while retrieving. I find a slower reel is good for preventing you from fishing too fast as well, but the comfort is the main issue.

[iceintheveins]

I've also found when casting that even the bigger deep cranks don't go much past 20 to 21 feet, even on a long cast with 10 pound fluoro. But if you want to grind rip rap or ledges in the 15 - 20 foot range, big deep cranks are tough to beat.

[kikstand454]

Can someone offer up line recommendations?

12# YZ hybrid

10 if you're trying for that +20' mark.