Braid Line Keeps On Breaking??

[AlecFish]

Hello all, 

 

I have recently switched to braid for this season and I'm not having good experiences with it. 

 

After a little backing of mono, I put 15lb EZ Spiderwire braid on my reel and I've lost $40 in lures. I mainly use snap swivels and I don't know if that's the reason, it just makes it easier for me to swap lures on the fly without having to re-tie. I went in thinking braid would be able to handle anything, every time I hook up with a pickerel the line breaks at the swivel. Pickerel have a pretty good set of teeth but I thought braid this thick should be able to handle them. I never had problems like this even with 8-10lb mono so, what the hell is going on?

 

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, I'm tying the palomer knot on the swivel which is sought out to be a pretty good knot.

[rippin-lips]

#15 braid has a diameter of #4 mono. It's really pretty thin. Braid doesn't do well with toothy critters anyhow. Tie on a leader of mono/fluoro

[flyfisher]

Braid will get cut through like a hot knife through butter from toothy fish. What your describing doesn't sound like bite offs though.

Are you lubricating the knot well before cinching as it can burn itself when tightening

[d-camarena]

If its breaking at swivel than i dont think the problem is the teeth. The bottom contact area of the lake might be really rocky which cuts braid like butter. Also sound like your knot might be slipping

[Kevin22]

Id guess.

#1- knot slipping. Try double palomar

#2- shock breakage. I wouldnt use #15 braid on anything more than a medium spinning rod with the drag set about medium. Treat it as 6# mono.

If you are using casting gear, try 30-40#. Braid does not transfer over from mono equally. By this I mean if you ise 10# mono then dont expect to use 10# braid.

My rule on mono to braid.

Mono-braid

6# mono = 10-15# braid

8 = 20

10 = 20-30

12 = 30

14-15 = 40

17 = 50

20 = 65

[A-Jay]

Hello all, 

 

I have recently switched to braid for this season and I'm not having good experiences with it. 

 

After a little backing of mono, I put 15lb EZ Spiderwire braid on my reel and I've lost $40 in lures. I mainly use snap swivels and I don't know if that's the reason, it just makes it easier for me to swap lures on the fly without having to re-tie. I went in thinking braid would be able to handle anything, every time I hook up with a pickerel the line breaks at the swivel. Pickerel have a pretty good set of teeth but I thought braid this thick should be able to handle them. I never had problems like this even with 8-10lb mono so, what the hell is going on?

 

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, I'm tying the palomer knot on the swivel which is sought out to be a pretty good knot.

 

What happens when you hook a Bass ?

 

If your line is parting when the strike is by a fish with teeth and NOT during a strike by a fish which has substantially less teeth - then there is at least a decent chance you'll need to use a wire leader of some kind or you can expect more of the same.

 

If your line is parting regardless of the fish type - then there's at least the same chance it's your knot.

 

Another possibility (already mentioned above) is your line may be a little too light; especially if your using fairly stout casting gear and performing the all too famous - "Full Blown, Total Body, Coming out of my Shoes, Lets Break her face Off" - hook set.

 

A-Jay

[AlecFish]

Braid will get cut through like a hot knife through butter from toothy fish. What your describing doesn't sound like bite offs though.

Are you lubricating the knot well before cinching as it can burn itself when tightening

 

Huh. I was under the impression braid was the strongest line out there, even with toothy fish. 

 

Is braid more durable than mono, if you were to test #10 braid vs #10 mono which would have more strength to pull through weeds and pull in those hawgs

 

Id guess.

#1- knot slipping. Try double palomar

#2- shock breakage. I wouldnt use #15 braid on anything more than a medium spinning rod with the drag set about medium. Treat it as 6# mono.

If you are using casting gear, try 30-40#. Braid does not transfer over from mono equally. By this I mean if you ise 10# mono then dont expect to use 10# braid.

My rule on mono to braid.

Mono-braid

6# mono = 10-15# braid

8 = 20

10 = 20-30

12 = 30

14-15 = 40

17 = 50

20 = 65

Its a medium spinning setup. I tend to use #8-#10 mono so I'll look into #30, I had no idea!  

 

I just want to make sure.. Is it fine to tie braid directly to a lure/swivel or do you need some sort of leader?

 

Also, do different brands have an effect, I've heard a lot of people using Power Pro?

 

What happens when you hook a Bass ?

 

If your line is parting when the strike is by a fish with teeth and NOT during a strike by a fish which has substantially less teeth - then there is at least a decent chance you'll need to use a wire leader of some kind or you can expect more of the same.

 

If your line is parting regardless of the fish type - then there's at least the same chance it's your knot.

 

Another possibility (already mentioned above) is your line may be a little too light; especially if your using fairly stout casting gear and performing the all too famous - "Full Blown, Total Body, Coming out of my Shoes, Lets Break her face Off" - hook set.

 

A-Jay

 

It has to be the knot. Just today a lunker 4 inch yellow perch stole my jig... Let that sink in...^{sink in... haha get it}

 

I followed this video on the palomer knot:

 

Can you give me some advice on the proper way, another has suggested lubricating the line/knot beforehand I did not do that, which could be a source for breakage. Should I be tying something different? 

 

Unfortunately where I live there is quite the abundance of pickerel and they go after anything, there's always a chance they could bite the line. Other than hooking up a wire leader that could reduce my sensitivity and finesse to lures, what can I do?  

[Fisher-O-men]

Ditch the knot and the clip or swivel.  You need to learn the uni knot and you need to tie on every lure.  Those cilps make you lazy about retying.  I lost a good fish on Spyder Wire so I now go with Power Pro or TufLine.

 

About the uni knot.  It is easier to tie because you do not have to make a big loop to put the entire lure through.  4 wraps is what I use, but you can use more.  Never heard of braid burning on the cinch.

[FishTank]

I tried the same Spiderwire and had the same issue with it breaking but any toothy fish will cut through line (any line).    I would also tie it directly to the lure, no swivel, if you are using braid.  If you are still having issues with fish biting through the line, use a wire lead but only as a last resort.  

 

Also no matter what knot you use, always wet it before you cinch it. 

[rippin-lips]

Huh. I was under the impression braid was the strongest line out there, even with toothy fish.

Is braid more durable than mono, if you were to test #10 braid vs #10 mono which would have more strength to pull through weeds and pull in those hawgs

If it's just weeds the braid would win. It has no stretch and the thin diameter would cut through them.

Its a medium spinning setup. I tend to use #8-#10 mono so I'll look into #30, I had no idea!

10-20 braid is enough for spinning gear.

I just want to make sure.. Is it fine to tie braid directly to a lure/swivel or do you need some sort of leader?

Yes it's fine. A leader comes in handy at times. Shock absorption,toothy fish,clear water,ect

Also, do different brands have an effect, I've heard a lot of people using Power Pro?

I just use power pro. Never let me down yet.

It has to be the knot. Just today a lunker 4 inch yellow perch stole my jig... Let that sink in...^{sink in... haha get it}

I followed this video on the palomer knot:

Can you give me some advice on the proper way, another has suggested lubricating the line/knot beforehand I did not do that, which could be a source for breakage. Should I be tying something different?

Palomar is fine but for #10 I'd use a double Palomar. Or leave your tag end 1/2" long. Sounds like it's pulling through.

Unfortunately where I live there is quite the abundance of pickerel and they go after anything, there's always a chance they could bite the line. Other than hooking up a wire leader that could reduce my sensitivity and finesse to lures, what can I do?

Tie on a mono leader. You can still get bit off though.

[TorqueConverter]

Hello all, 

 

I have recently switched to braid for this season and I'm not having good experiences with it. 

 

After a little backing of mono, I put 15lb EZ Spiderwire braid on my reel and I've lost $40 in lures. I mainly use snap swivels and I don't know if that's the reason, it just makes it easier for me to swap lures on the fly without having to re-tie. I went in thinking braid would be able to handle anything, every time I hook up with a pickerel the line breaks at the swivel. Pickerel have a pretty good set of teeth but I thought braid this thick should be able to handle them. I never had problems like this even with 8-10lb mono so, what the hell is going on?

 

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, I'm tying the palomer knot on the swivel which is sought out to be a pretty good knot.

 

I've found that 99% of 'breaks at the knot' faults with braid are actually 'my knot came undone'.  Try a uni knot with a lot of wraps on it.  I'm not a fan of Palomar knots and braided lines,      

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

Huh. I was under the impression braid was the strongest line out there, even with toothy fish. 

 

Is braid more durable than mono, if you were to test #10 braid vs #10 mono which would have more strength to pull through weeds and pull in those hawgs

 

Its a medium spinning setup. I tend to use #8-#10 mono so I'll look into #30, I had no idea!  

 

I just want to make sure.. Is it fine to tie braid directly to a lure/swivel or do you need some sort of leader?

 

Also, do different brands have an effect, I've heard a lot of people using Power Pro?

 

 

It has to be the knot. Just today a lunker 4 inch yellow perch stole my jig... Let that sink in...^{sink in... haha get it}

 

 

 

Can you give me some advice on the proper way, another has suggested lubricating the line/knot beforehand I did not do that, which could be a source for breakage. Should I be tying something different? 

 

Unfortunately where I live there is quite the abundance of pickerel and they go after anything, there's always a chance they could bite the line. Other than hooking up a wire leader that could reduce my sensitivity and finesse to lures, what can I do?  

Toothy fish is hit and miss with most lines without a leader being use. They have made quick work of 10# Yozuri 12# SniperFC 20# braid of differing brands. Ive also landed them with the same.

As for 15# braid being strong I sure think it is, just depends on the brand. Kanzen #15 Ive found to be weak while PowerPro Super8Slick #15 has proven to me to be quite strong horsed a carp in with MH/fast crucial rod. Knot used was -through the eye twice 6 turn UNI knot.  Plus many many bass fishing frogs. I would most definitely trust 10# braid over 10# mono strength wise. Also much better with line management on spinning reel.

[OkeechobeeAngler]

Palomar knot is fine. It's the only know I use with Power Pro from bluegills to sharks etc.

[SirSnookalot]

Look at the end of the line to determine whether a fish has cut you off, knot pulled thru, or the line just broke. Each problem should be recognizable.  Do fish hit a swivel, you bet they do but the line will tell you that.  A cut off the line should have a clean cut, a pull thru might have little curl on the end and broken line should jagged.  Now that you have the problem isolated what to do about it.

15# braid on spinning IMO is near perfection.  Not having experience with EZ braid can't really comment on the line, but can say of all the braid brands I've used knot or line strength has never been an issue.  A pickerel should't be breaking 15# braid, you may want to check your drag and if there is any line abrasion.  Perhaps different brand of line, different or better tied knot.  You may singe the tag end and put a bead on it, this will help to prevent the line pulling thru the knot.  Pretty much any fishing knot tied correctly should be fine, if that's where the problems lies.  Lubing a knot is never a bad idea, but I don't do it.  I only lube a knot that has coils like an alberto, clinch, etc., only mono, copoly or fc, and lines over 30#.  I just cinch smaller lines down.

[VolFan]

Check (especially) your top guide and make sure the insert is there, and not cracked or worn. Secondly, is this appoint in lakes with a shale/sharp rock substrate? I'd bet on your knot pulling, but after that I'd guess one of the two above if it's breaking at or near the knot.

[Bluebasser86]

Palomar knot works just fine with braid for me. Straight braid for toothy critters does not. Last muskie I caught was flipping for bass with straight braid. Miracle I got her in the net but once she head shook and that line hit her teeth it parted like sewing thread, and that was 50lb. 

 

I also agree with ditching the snap/swivel. Use a snap if you must, but not both. 

[Ozark_Basser]

That exact braid was the first I ever tried. I tied a Palomar knot also and got the same results. Started tying a double Palomar, and the problem was solved. Report back with your results with the double Palomar. A lot of people think a regular palomar won't slip, but it will on light braid.

[Kidflex]

Spiderwire ez braid is the worst braid I have ever used. Just my opinion though. The braid is not tightly woven and comes apart easily. Might have had a bad batch but won't try again. I'll spend the extra 4 dollars and get suffix or pp.

[corn-on-the-rob]

With the knot or knots that you have likely used forever with mono, it is possible and somewhat common for certain knots to not be compatible with braid. Due to the slickness, some knots will slip way before significant pressure.

 

I personally would recommend learning the sandiego jam knot, it works with all three major line types (braid, mono, FC) and is both easy and very strong.

 

With that being said palomar and the uni are still very popular with braid and work just as well. The thing you have to be careful with these two knots is when tied with FC, the FC can cut itself due to the way the wraps cinch.

 

Spiderwire ez braid is the worst braid I have ever used. Just my opinion though. The braid is not tightly woven and comes apart easily. Might have had a bad batch but won't try again. I'll spend the extra 4 dollars and get suffix or pp.

Completely agree.

[Josh Smith]

I like Spiderwire EZ Braid and the Sufix Performance brand.  My favorite (so far) is Spiderwire Stealth.  Been wanting to try Power Pro but in an earth color; locally they only have the bright green stuff.

 

All of this is in 50lb (12lb mono equivalent diameter.)

 

I had to learn to go to the Palomar knot for strength.  If I'm fishing something that I don't mind losing to a snag, I use a clinch knot.  Generally, however, I just bend the hooks by pulling through the snag.  This lets me do things I'd never dreamed of with mono!

 

Going after walleye, I tie on a fluorocarbon leader, always, and check it often.  I also keep a couple steel leaders around just in case I need 'em.

 

I used to use snap swivels, but will only use swivels now if line twist is an issue, and generally only use snaps on crankbaits (double lock snaps).  I replace the split rings with these double locking snaps.

 

Josh

[AlecFish]

Spiderwire ez braid is the worst braid I have ever used. Just my opinion though. The braid is not tightly woven and comes apart easily. Might have had a bad batch but won't try again. I'll spend the extra 4 dollars and get suffix or pp.

 

Yeah the line looks frayed for some reason and it keeps on splitting at the tip, it's like impossible to tie anything. 

 

Does it matter if I go with #20 or #30 power pro?

 

Just got some #30 PP to match the 8lb mono. 

 

I'll  tie a uni straight to the lure and post results tomorrow after I go out!

[harleytx591978]

I'm using 6lb test for crappie fishing with a cork and minnow stop. After catching several crappie, eventually the hook breaks off and the crappie is gone with a new lip piercing.

[dodgeguy]

On 6/7/2015 at 2:06 AM, OkeechobeeAngler said:

Palomar knot is fine. It's the only know I use with Power Pro from bluegills to sharks etc.

Been using a Palomar knot since 1993 on braid and never had one slip. Spider wire sucks. Get Sufix 832. The snap has nothing to do with it. Inspect line and retie when needed.

[Deephaven]

Snaps need to be retied super often.  The only place I see value in using one are my jerkbait and crankbaits rods.  Both because I will sometimes switch rapidly to slightly change depth or action.  All other techniques I direct tie.  Every few fish the snap gets retied as well...and definitely after every northern.

 

[WRB]

Before there was a Palomar knot or a Uni knot there was a braid knot. The original braid knot I learned to tie back in the 50’s was simply a double line clinch knot. This knot is tied using a double line like you use tying a Palomar knot. Same as the clinch knot except you wrap the looped end line 5 times and put the tag end loop back through opening next to the hook, and clinch tight. You end up with 3 ends when you cut off tag ends. The braid never slips leaving  1/16-1/8” cut ends.

Tom

PS, look at “double clinch” knot Utube video.