How To Lengthen Cable, Troll Motor To Battery

[livemusic]

I have a Minn Kota Endura 50 lb thrust. Just bought a used 8' pond jumper boat and put troll motor up front and pull the boat with troll motor. But the cable is not but about 4' long and I need to move the battery to the back of the boat when fishing alone to balance it out. How do I modify this to make a longer cable?

[slonezp]

The easiest way would be to use the correct gauge extension wire, butt connectors, and some heat shrink tubing the correct diameter. Another easy option would be to get a male/female twist lock plug rated for the proper amperage. Attach one end to what you have and make the proper sized extension for the other.  

[Al Wolbach]

I would suggest going to Lowes/Hqome Depot or your local hardware and get new cable in the correct length. This will help eliminate problems in the long run. Splices tend to cause problems a few years down the road.

[Way2slow]

I don't think Lowes or HD carry a fine stranded cable and that large stranded stuff is too stiff and can be a pain in the butt. 

 

If it was mine, this is what I would do.  If it has alligator clips, I would cut those off and put heavy duty 5/16"-3/8" (what ever size your battery terminals are) eyelets on it, crimp, solder and heat shrink them.  This is something I would do even if I was not wanting to extend it.  If it already has eyelets on it, leave them alone.

 

For the extension, I would try to find some very fine stranded 8ga battery wire, a set of those cheap Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart jumper cables should do the trick.  Cut the ends off, crimp, solder and heat shrink eyelets on it to match the ones on the TM cable and will fit on the battery terminals.  Get a couple of nuts, bolts and washers and bolt the two ends at the TM together and tape them up good.  Fasten the other end to the battery with hex nuts and a wrench, NO WINGNUTS, and you are good to go. 

[Scott F]

Do not make one long run from the motor to the battery. It will make removing the motor a pain every time. Mount a trolling motor plug near where you mount the motor so you can easily unplug it. Run wires back to the battery. Try an automotive parts store or a marine dealer for the right wire..

[Wayne P.]

Do not make one long run from the motor to the battery. It will make removing the motor a pain every time. Mount a trolling motor plug near where you mount the battery so you can easily unplug the motor. Run wires back to the battery. Try an automotive parts store or a marine dealer for the right wire..

Mount a receptacle at the bow with wire to the battery location.

 

Attach a matching plug to the trolling motor cable to plug into the receptacle.

 

That is the way bass boats are setup.

 

You can get the receptacle and plug at Walmart. Just need some marine grade wire of 8 or 6 guage between the receptacle and battery.

[IneedAnewScreenName-09]

The Walmart way is the way to go.  Get a cheap set of Jumper cables.  Make sure they are the same gauge as the rec. on the motor.  You will also need to put in a fuse between the motor and the battery.  I put this set up on a little twelve foot row boat for my kid and it works like a charm.

[livemusic]

The Walmart way is the way to go.  Get a cheap set of Jumper cables.  Make sure they are the same gauge as the rec. on the motor.  You will also need to put in a fuse between the motor and the battery.  I put this set up on a little twelve foot row boat for my kid and it works like a charm.

 

Are you talking about connecting jumper cables to the troll motor ends and then the battery, simple as that, with no mods? Other than a fuse? Why put in a fuse? I know nothing about electricity, lol. Your way sure is simple.

 

On a related note, I found this kit at BPS -- http://www.basspro.com/Trolling-Motor-Connector-Kit-8-Gauge/product/12051808141522/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT

[Way2slow]

No, you are cutting the clamps off the jumper cables and installing eyelets. The eyelets on one end will bolt to the eyelets on the TM cable, the eyelets on the other end connect to the battery.

[F14A-B]

Ring terminals are the nomenclature generally used. You can obtain wire at most hardware stores.. Ring terms can be had at automotive part stores as well as heat shrink, you can crimp those as well. You don't have to solder them. Although it's preferred.