Broken Crankbait Lip

[Surfcaster]

My 8 year old son was walking back up to the house after fishing at our pond with a sad look on his face.  He was holding his favorite Rebel crayfish crankbait in his hand and the lip was broken off.  The lip was still tied to the line.  I asked what happened and he said, "It just broke."  Now I have heard the "It just broke" phrase many times and have used it myself during my youth.  He could have stepped on it, slammed it into a tree, my 14 year old "pro-wanna-be" son could have been involved, however it happened is not the issue.  What caught my attention was there was no wire running from the line eyelet through the lip to the body.  I have noticed this on crankbaits over the years and preferred an eyelet connected the body which I assumed was connected to the hooks, but it did not keep me from purchasing a crankbait if the eyelet was screwed or molded to the lip if I liked the lure.  I surveyed my crankbait stock and found that only some of the eyelet in the lip crankbaits have an eyelet that is connected to the body.  Some of my crankbaits have an eyelet right where the body meets the lip, which according to an article I read is David Fritts preferred crankbait setup.  Now I have caught fish with my crankbaits and have never had an issue with the eyelet pulling out or lip breaking so it is probably not a big deal, and I will continue to fish them.   But I am wondering if other members on the forum look at eyelet position or crankbait/lure build design  when considering a lure purchase. 

[Matthew2000]

Uh no.

[papajoe222]

I only look at the line tie position when attempting to determine how quickly a bait will dive to it's running depth and how much strain it's going to put on me and my equipment. 

[BASSPATROL247]

I look at eyelet placement and prefer it being attached to the body of the bait because I believe they dive faster to their supposed running depth, the main thing for me when buying a crankbait is that I want baits that when reeled back to the boat they end up under the boat and behind you  at the end of the retrieve. those are the baits that run at the maximum depth they can for the longest with the line and rod/reel set up being used, with square bills this is not so impotant to me but for mid and deep running models it is... I also like to remove the split ring and use those kvd strike king quick snaps, I think they let the bait use its full range of movement better that tying to the split ring... I also am not very fond of crankbaits that are very light, I like them to be heavy, not big and heavy just heavy for their size if that makes sense....