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Posted

I am thinking of getting a Duckett Ghost rod, I've handled them and they preform well. Any other suggestions?

  • Super User
Posted

I just picked up a Halo 7'10" MH cranking rod and it's amazing. VERY light, great parabolic bend, and sensitive. It's about 30 bucks more expensive than a ghost but I like it better. The new Veritas Winch is good though as well, I have one for throwing buzzbaits and rage shads and love it.

Posted

I have two standard casting versions of the Duckett Ghost and both of those feel and perform well. They are very soft in the tip and I would imagine that the cranking models would do well for you as long as you have expectations of them being very parabolic when it comes to the action.

  • Like 1
Posted

Phenix crankbait composite casting Rod is better

Phenix x series are composite. What you and fisherrw suggested are the same rod.
Posted

Phenix x series are composite. What you and fisherrw suggested are the same rod.

Yup
Posted

I have a Powell diesel crank rod. Can't imagine how the higher end stuff is when the lowest model feels so good

Posted

I have two standard casting versions of the Duckett Ghost and both of those feel and perform well. They are very soft in the tip and I would imagine that the cranking models would do well for you as long as you have expectations of them being very parabolic when it comes to the action.

Agree. I own the 73 mh which I have been pitching with but it would do well with a Deep crank.

  • Super User
Posted

What length and power are you looking at? Is there a material preference for glass or graphite? Saying you want a cranking rod when they range from 5'6" up to 8' with powers from light to heavy and everywhere in between leaves a lot of suggestions than can go for weeks if not months so try narrowing it down some. Glass rods are heavier than graphite and composite rods but they offer a feel that is different, they are parabolic in action and transition very slowly into the backbone and I personally like that. Graphite is the lightest and even with a parabolic action they have a shut off point that you get to quickly, there is very little transition, instead you get a deep flex and then back bone. Composite rods are a blend of glass and graphite but they are not all the same, some use E-Glass and graphite, while others use S-Glass and graphite and while there are differences they both handle very similar. E-Glass and S-Glass rods are very different too, E-Glass is heavy but I prefer it as it has a soft, parabolic action and it is a slow transition to the backbone as I said earlier. S-Glass feels almost like a composite, it is lighter than E-Glass but a little heavier than graphite but while having a soft action it doesn't transition to the backbone like E-Glass, instead it bends fast right down to the backbone and stops similar to how graphite works but softer than graphite. If you never trided glass rods you may want to check those out except if weight is a concern, I only use my glass rod for deep divers anymore as it is too heavy to chuck and wind shallow baits on so I have a couple graphite cranking rods. So please provide more detail and you'll get some good advise.

  • Like 1
Posted

I don't own one, but I have read numerous comments on other sites on the BPS crankin stick- all good.  The price is right for sure.

Posted

I love the Kistler KLX Mark Rose offshore rods for any bigger crankbait.

Posted

What length and power are you looking at? Is there a material preference for glass or graphite? Saying you want a cranking rod when they range from 5'6" up to 8' with powers from light to heavy and everywhere in between leaves a lot of suggestions than can go for weeks if not months so try narrowing it down some. Glass rods are heavier than graphite and composite rods but they offer a feel that is different, they are parabolic in action and transition very slowly into the backbone and I personally like that. Graphite is the lightest and even with a parabolic action they have a shut off point that you get to quickly, there is very little transition, instead you get a deep flex and then back bone. Composite rods are a blend of glass and graphite but they are not all the same, some use E-Glass and graphite, while others use S-Glass and graphite and while there are differences they both handle very similar. E-Glass and S-Glass rods are very different too, E-Glass is heavy but I prefer it as it has a soft, parabolic action and it is a slow transition to the backbone as I said earlier. S-Glass feels almost like a composite, it is lighter than E-Glass but a little heavier than graphite but while having a soft action it doesn't transition to the backbone like E-Glass, instead it bends fast right down to the backbone and stops similar to how graphite works but softer than graphite. If you never trided glass rods you may want to check those out except if weight is a concern, I only use my glass rod for deep divers anymore as it is too heavy to chuck and wind shallow baits on so I have a couple graphite cranking rods. So please provide more detail and you'll get some good advise.

Holy moly that was a great post! I haven't bought a dedicated cranking stick yet (next on the list) and was always wondering what are the benefits between the different materials and you just gave a fantastic explanation!

 

Thanks a lot!

Posted

hard to beat the powell diesel for the money. its plenty light and works great. i also have the lamiglas excel 2 glass rod and its a great one as well

 

Yes, I took mine out last night and threw shallow, medium, and deep diving cranks just to try it out and it handled all of them very well. Pretty light and very sensitive rod for glass. I enjoyed it. All I took was Diesel rods last night and I must say they are pretty impressive for $50 each....what a steal.

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