1432 Lowes Won't Plane

[Ken Blevins]

I have a 1432 lowes that won't plane  with a 1972 "long shaft"...I had a 10 hp short shaft Rude that  almost got it up on plane ,but the motor was worn out...Bought a 18 hp evinrude thats so strong I had to put an electric starter on it [ long shaft]..The 18 hp motor would not get it to plane , the front end straight  in the air..Tried to bring plane down and it would fall outta plane [ figured prop was to low in the water.]..I bought a stationary  jack plate with a 3 in setback and raised the the prop 5 inches higher than it was.....Getting ready to sell the  boat.Guy who wanted boat ,tested it and complained it would not plane...hate to lose the sale ? What must i do to get this up on plane..set it back another 3 inchs  ? raise the prop higher ? the prop is real small?  go to another larger prop??? sorry for the long e-mail

thanks              Ken 6645     Ps   would a whale tail work ?????  if anyone has any ideas shoot me a email     chantil@roadrunner.com[nnnnnnmmnnnmmm]

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[zachb34]

The whale tail should get it up on plane but is usually just a bandaid for the problem. The rule of thumb is usually to get the fin above the water intake just under the hull. You shouldn't be under powered though my 1542 planes out at a little more than half throttle with a 15 HP 4 stroke. Full gear full gas, battery, full cooler, and about 400 pounds between me and my buddy.

[Way2slow]

I have a Lowe 1432 and have no problems with all three of the motors I use on it. I have a 4hp Merc, a 9.9 Johnson and a 25hp Merc, all short shaft motors. The 25 is a bit much and you have to be very careful, the sucker is scary fast with it. You don't make sudden changes in direction.

My first thoughts are you are not tucking the motor in far enough and have too much weight in the rear of the boat. You have to remember, that 18 Rude is the same as the 25 Johnson and is a very heavy motor to be on the back of that small of a boat. You definetly don't want to add any more set back, that will only make it worse.

You need to start with the motor adjusted so the tilt pin is in the very bottom hole. If it's still making the bow go straight up in the air, add wedges between the motor mount and hull so it will trim further in. If that don't help, then the motor is probably too heavy and will have to put something in the bow to add weight.

If the motor is just bogging down and not lifting the bow, then you have motor problems. Motor is not making enough power.

[Fishing Rhino]

The prop is too deep.  Even if it is tilted all the way down, you'll still have problems getting it on plane.  It's a function of leverage. 

 

The longer the lower unit, the more leverage the prop has to raise the bow.  Make the shaft long enough and it will flip the boat over backward.

 

You need to raise the motor.  There are bolt on devices to do just that.

 

Raising the motor five inches will not only solve your problem, but it will also allow you to run in shallower (is there such a word?) water.

 

The previous post about weight distribution should also be considered.

[Way2slow]

He said he has already added 5" of lift, so the anticav plate should be close to even with the bottom of the hull. I wish he had not added the set back, that adds to the problem, but if he has the anticav plate up tu the bottom of the hull, he doesn't need to add any mor lift.

[Fishing Rhino]

He said he has already added 5" of lift, so the anticav plate should be close to even with the bottom of the hull. I wish he had not added the set back, that adds to the problem, but if he has the anticav plate up tu the bottom of the hull, he doesn't need to add any mor lift.

 

You are correct on both counts, that he already raised the motor five inches, and that the set back only makes the problem worse.

 

So, with that in mind, we are back to weight distribution, a tired motor (not likely if it runs well), or, the wrong prop.

 

Next step.  Hook up a tachometer to the engine and see what it turns for rpms, and go from there.  If it is over revving, the prop is too small, or has too little pitch. 

 

How hard it is to crank by hand does not necessarily relate to a "strong engine".  Back in the day, a lot of the 30 to 40 horsepower engines were routinely started with a pull cord.  Even larger engines had a flywheel that would accept a pull cord with a knot on the end to start it when the battery was discharged. 

[Team_Dougherty]

I had a long shaft motor on a short shaft boat for years with no issue.

 

As said above you need to get a tach on that motor to see what it is doing. My guess is you need a smaller pitch prop to get the motor in the correct RPM range.

[Fishing Rhino]

Another thought on the prop.  If the motor was run where there are a lot of shallow sand bars, mud flats, etc., it's possible the prop was worn down running over them.

 

When I was a commercial lobsterman, and the river had a good crop of bay scallops, we'd scallop on the days we were not lobstering.  The river had a lot of shallow, grassy, mud flats, and we'd grind away at the prop while towing the scallop dredges. 

 

I'd go through two or three props (3 blade aluminum) in a few weeks.  When they'd get worn to the point where the wood skiff could not get up on plane when it was empty, I'd replace the prop.  It's amazing the difference a prop can make.

[J Francho]

Put a fishing partner on the front of the boat, lol.