applying finish to wraps

[Red]

this is just a general question for any rod builders out there.  i am just beginning rod building, thanks to flecero for the assist there.  i am wondering how you all apply your finish?  mainly how do you get a nice straight line around the edge?  i know this is probably mostly just practice practice practice.  i am just wondering if anyone has any tips for me.  or special tools that work good, i think keith said he uses some sort of dental tool.  do you use some sort of "rest" for your hand to help steady it?  i have used a brush and the last time i used a small flat tip screwdriver, that worked better than the brush.  anyway, any tips you can offer would be much appreciated!  ;D

thanks

Cliff

[flechero]

I thought I told you this stuff before...

I use a little scrap of 2x4 as a hand rest, that's key for steadiness. (and I use blocks cut from 2x4's for my rod rest when finishing) Secondly, I put the rod butt against something so that as I turn the rod I can push against said backstop and the rod never moves back or forth.... so as long as my hand is steady on the rest, my lines are straight.

So much for your teacher! ;D

As for my application "tools" I do use a dental spatula sometimes but lately I have been using a 1/4" artists sash brush. The key is that it's one I used before and let the finish cure on so it's completely rigid. It's just like a spatula now, except that it's got the perfect angle. And the secret tools... I have a bodkin, safety pin, paperclip and tiny pointed brush that I use for working around guide feet, thread tunnels and cutting tight around grips.

Soon, I'll have nothing left to offer. ...lol

[ddigit]

I use a wrist rest that RM and I came up with. As far as finish applications we use the yellow FlexCoat® brushes trimmed flat.

Tight Wraps!  

[Red]

I thought I told you this stuff before...  

I use a little scrap of 2x4 as a hand rest, that's key for steadiness. (and I use blocks cut from 2x4's for my rod rest when finishing)  Secondly, I put the rod butt against something so that as I turn the rod I can push against said backstop and the rod never moves back or forth.... so as long as my hand is steady on the rest, my lines are straight.

So much for your teacher!   ;D

As for my application "tools"  I do use a dental spatula sometimes but lately I have been using a 1/4" artists sash brush.  The key is that it's one I used before and let the finish cure on so it's completely rigid.  It's just like a spatula now, except that it's got the perfect angle.  And the secret tools... I have a bodkin, safety pin, paperclip and tiny pointed brush that I use for working around guide feet, thread tunnels and cutting tight around grips.

Soon, I'll have nothing left to offer.  ...lol  

i am sure you did tell me all that!!  not the teachers fault, it was the student not paying enough attention.  i do remember now about the 2x4 block, but i didnt know about putting the butt against something solid, thats a good idea!!  thanks for the tips, keep em comin!!

Cliff

[MickD]

I use the pointy tool (bodkin?) to make sure I get finish under the foot of the guide, and use those dental floss devices that look like a half circle with dental floss connecting the  ends of the half circle.  Just touch them to the finish as the rod rotates and it helps to give the same edge all the way around. Then just throw them away.  They come about 100 for less than a buck, if I remember right.

[ejtaylor822]

The first thing I do is heat my expoy parts with a heat gun (wife's old hair dryer) for about a minute. I use syringes, with holes drilled in the top of the bottles where I keep them. When I push the plunger in the syringe up I want the bubble to rise quickly - that lets me know it's right. I draw it out slow and put the resin in the cup first, then the hardener. I use a Pac-Bay mixer which is awesome, but, prior to that I mixed in the flexcoat cups, poured out on aluminum foil and used a straw to blow out the bubbles. I usually use a spatula for the first coat on the guides and a good quality 1/2" brush on any windings or decals being sure not to add bubbles.

I have found that I get the best edge finishes after the finish has set for a while so I typically coat all my guides, then go back and do the edges. I get better results when the finish is not real runny. I use a good quality "pointy" sable brush and turn rather quickly by hand for most edging applications.

Now, if I want a good neat solid edge I will overlap the finish by about 1/16" to the wrap on the blank - not a lot, becuase I am going to "push back". I will then take a coffee filter (best lint free rag there is) rip in two and double over. I will put a sharp crease in it and wrap over the blank - crease toward the wrap. I will hold the bottom part of the filter between my thumb and index finger on my right hand under the blank. I will spin the blank with my left hand and apply firm pressure on the filter while sliding towards the wrap. When I am at a distance I like will stop moving the filter forward, hold it there and make a few more revolutions being sure to keep both hands steady to get a good solid edge - takes practice and I still mess up on occassion. When done and to keep the fine edge, while spinning the blank I will quickly push the towel up and away from the guide.

I use a fine dubbing needle/bodkin to get under guide feet and apply in the gap on casting guides. For really tight areas - like under the ring of a forhan wrapped fly guide, I have a paper clip filed down to a small blunt point that I can "dab" on.

Any touch ups I will roll up pieces of the coffee filter to a solid/stiff point and wipe away. This works real good for cleaning up under the guide feet of casting rods.

Oh, and the most important thing for me that I have discovered of late for finishing - Magnification! Recently bought a head band magnification setup and it is the greatest thing in the world! I do not dress guide feet, wrap or finish without now. It, IMHO, is a must have.

Eddie

[FishingBuds]

With using epoxy and seeing you guys like to warm it up before use, then I assume you should be doing all this in a heated Environment correct, doing it in my garage with no heat wouldn't be smart?

[flechero]

Oh, and the most important thing for me that I have discovered of late for finishing - Magnification!  Recently bought a head band magnification setup and it is the greatest thing in the world!  I do not dress guide feet, wrap or finish without now.  It, IMHO, is a must have.

Never thought to try magnification for finish work... only for inspecting the finished work!  I might have to try it.  Does that headband offer better eye relief than cheaters?

I tried a pair of cheaters (reading glasses) but they gave me a headache after a little while when wrapping... now I only use them to count threads for inlays or fix things.  Or for short periods of time when my eyes just don't cooperate.

[flechero]

Fishingbuds-  

Cold finish won't set properly, if at all.  Epoxying and finish need to be indoors because most epoxy and finish needs heat to cure.  You can do everything else in a cold garage.

[ejtaylor822]

Flechero, I haven't tried cheaters (love the name, BTW) but have used the lens on the end of an adjustable boom. What I like about the headband is that unlike the magnifying lens on the adjustable arm, everything is in "perspective". For me this means I can move my head, change positions, etc., and not have the view distorted, out of focus or constantly readjust the lens position. Also, and the biggest for me, is that my periphery doesn't get wigged out.....

What I mean by this it that it always messed with me when I was tying flies, applying finish, wrapping, etc., that under my 6" magnifying lense my fingers and tools looked ginormous, yet outside of the lens in my field of view everything - fingers, hands, end of tools - were smaller/normal size and for some reason this really messed with me. Not to mention that having the lens in close for detail work often got in the way. Not the case with the headband as the field of view is consistent.

I bought this one and love it:

http://www.mudhole.com/Home/Head-Strap-Magnifier

The light is weak and I do not use. But with four interchangeable lenses of magnification its worth the price. The visor actually holds two lenses at a time and you can combine them for increased magnification. I use the 1.8x all the time and then flip down the 2.5 for really detailed work. Have to get in close to bring into focus but still plenty of room to work. When not needed I flip the visor out of the way AND it holds in place. I literally wear them the entire time I am dressing guide feet, wrappping and applying finish. Very comfortable - even for my big noggin - and have not noticed any eye strain or headaches.

Highly, highly recommend.

Eddie

[flechero]

Thanks for the additional info!  For $20, I'll add one to my next order...  I like the multiple magnifications... that alone makes the price worth it!

Thanks,

Keith