Question on Rod Blank kits

[FishingBuds]

Those that make rods, do you buy the kits?? you know that come with the handles, guides and such?

I have looked at both ways, it seems I would like to purchase exactly want I want on all componets, but I would be limited on what exactly I want thru the kits, unless someone knows of a place that is flexable on thier kits?

Got another question here also, whats a good over all spinning blank customer to start off with. one that is a good rod and decent price to make your first few on?

[flechero]

I don't buy kits.  They never seem to have the reel seat or guides I want in the sizes I would use.  The savings on a kit is minimal... and non existent if you have to change anything.

As for good value blanks, try Batson RX7 (or RX6 for lower $).  Dollar for dollar they are tough to beat.

[FishingBuds]

I don't buy kits. They never seem to have the reel seat or guides I want in the sizes I would use. The savings on a kit is minimal... and non existent if you have to change anything.

As for good value blanks, try Batson RX7 (or RX6 for lower $). Dollar for dollar they are tough to beat.

Thanks, believe or not I have been looking at the Batson but the RX8, I"ll check out the 6 & 7's.

Do you mostly hand wrap?  I wonder if the power wraps would screw me up going to fast for a beginner, I also think slow and quality.

I don't believe I should knock one out in one day and expect quality

[flechero]

I was thinking that you meant not as expensive since you said at a decent price.  I have one of the RX8's and it's nice.  For beginning I would suggest the 7 for you...  it sounds like you will take your time and not rush or else I would have said the RX6.  ...lol  I have a couple of the 7's and they are a good blank.  I think you'll like it unless you are expecting it to be GLX.  

I only hand wrap.  It's not much slower, despite what you might expect.  Since you have to pack as you go (or at least I do) it doesn't save a ton of time...  If I were going to build saltwater stuff where underwraps were needed, I would buy a power wrapper.  

I think you need to wrap a few rods by hand first, just to learn it.  If you decide it's too slow then consider power.

I know Alpster uses a power wrapper.  But I don't know if he uses it all the time or not.

[FishingBuds]

Thanks again, Those RX8's look and sound sweet tho

Can ya tell me about the Finish motors or the dryer motors?

I know after epoxying over your thread you can run a alcohol burner under it for the bubble problem. I'm still reading up on this stuff.

They want me(suggest) to buy everything, but I'm gonna wonder what I really need? Or when will i need to get it on these motor wraps/finishers/dryers, They look the same :-?

I'm satisfied on getting a hand wrap, just wondering on the other two?

And the book won't tell me that part- You know having experiance behind ya. Is that stuff only for when you underwrap?

by the way flechero thanks for the feed back, its appreciated

[skunked_again]

how much work do you rod builder put into finding the rod spline?

[flechero]

I don't think you can build just one...   ;D

I apply finish by hand turning.  The motor scares me when applying finish.  I like slow dryer motors.  I use 3 and 6 rpm and hand turn sometimes.

The alcohol burner shouldn't go under the finish or it will burn and discolor/cause all kinds of problems.... you go along side of it just to warm the finish and release the bubbles.  The best trick is to minimize the  bubbles in the first place.  There are some ways to mix and apply finish that introduces fewer bubbles.  And a good warm breath will release most bubbles.    I just started using a lighter... been breath busting them for a couple years.  The lighter or burner is good but you  have to be careful.

Be sure to check out rodbuilding.org  and also be sure to read some of the articles in the 'library' there.  

http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/library.html

Bottom line is that you will want a wrapping jig (you can build a nice one cheap- see article in the library link) and probably a dryer motor, but if your on a budget, you can hand turn for wrapping, finishing and drying.  You can make this as much or as little as you want... almost all the tools can be built easily and there is a trick or alternate method for everything.  

Read up and ask away!  It's a great hobby when the weather isn't suitable for fishing.

[ejtaylor822]

Let me add one thing to what Flechero said - IT"S ADDICTING!!!!!!!

I hand turn as well when applying finish. Let sit for about 5 mins to wipe off any excess then put in the dryer - 4 RPM. Everything I use is home made and got my turning motor off ebay for less than $20.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1204259464/0#0

skunked_again, I do not put a whole lot into finding the spine. I put the blank on the bench, roll it around then mark it - 3 mins tops. I have done some testing with guides and reel seat taped on the spine and off and couldn't really tell that much of a difference in casting. I build on the spine for (2) reasons - consistency in the builds and if it does make a difference, want it while fighting the fish.

Eddie

[MickD]

I, like many others, hand wrap, not power wrap.  I built my rig from scrap lumber, added a thread tensioner bought from Cabelas or JannsNetcraft.com.  

I think the only reason to build a kit is if you don't have a drill press or lathe on which to turn cork rings.  You can cobble a usable method to turn them on  a drill press using threaded rod.  Even if you have to use pre-made cork components, you can buy them without resorting to a kit.  Kits don't have the right guide sizes, either.

Do a lot of pre-planning to get the guides you want, check out rodbuilding.org for how to do the Fuji Concept guide layout-it really works and is actually simpler than using a whole bunch of guide sizes-you most likely only need 4, like a 25, 16, and 10, then size 5, 5.5, or 6 single foot fly guides for the last 4 or so.  This gives you really light guides on the tip which helps rod action relative to using heavier/bigger guides.

Check out split grip-If you do a split grip you need only have a ring or so at each end of the reel seat (actually don't even need that, but I like the looks of it) and a butt grip of about 2 inches.

Make sure you use hypos to measure your epoxy and rod finish-one of the biggest problems I see on forums is finish/epoxy not hardening properly, and that usually means poor measuring technique.  Make sure you rough up your plastic parts before glueing with fine sandpaper or other methods (NOT BIG GOUGES-THAT IS WEAKER THAN USING VERY FINE ABRASIVE).  

If you partially submerge your epoxy/rod finish containers in hot water for five minutes before you draw material from them, the material will be thinner, have fewer bubbles, and the bubbles you do make will clear better.  Make sure not to get even a drop of water into your finish.  A great way to use the expoxy/rod finish is to buy it in the little plastic bottle with the pointed caps, and cut off the tip of the cap point at the place that leaves a diameter that is just a little tighter than the tip on the hypo, then you stick the hypo into the open end, tip it upside down, wait for the air to leave, then suck in what you think you will need.  No drips/accurate measuring.  Keep the resin hypo for resin, and the hardner hypo for hardner, otherwise you will get a reaction and ruin your hypo.  Keep separate hypos for each material you use.  They are cheap, and oh so handy.

I just had a builder suggest to me to hold the guides on the rod temporarily for tuning location and for tying by using very small cable ties.  Haven't tried it yet, but it sounds like it would work great.  Tape the handle on, temporarily attach the guides (run line through them right away so if one falls off it won't be lost), put your reel on, and move things around for best balance and fit (check the length from the reel to the butt to make sure it doesn't catch your elbow) and do some test casting.  When you get your setup the way you like it, mark it and get to building!

I think going a little on the cheap side is not a bad idea since you will learn with every build, and it might make sense to use the premium stuff on your 3rd or 4th build.  I've built for 40 years, have done about 10 in the last 3 years, and I'm still learning.  Not only will you get smarter, techniques and parts change with time, also.

Re guides, Fuji Alconites are very good guides, even with braid, and if you use the small fly guides for the ones on the tip, you will have a very light setup without spending a fortune on guides. Use as little finish as possible-that adds weight, too. I like the lite rod finish as it goes on better without forming "footballs" on the windings.  Use A size thread instead of heavier B or D. It is a little harder to use, but you'll get used to it.

You can use color preservative if you want to make sure the color of the thread doesn't change, use multi coats, or you can just put rod finish on the thread without using CP and you'll have much different colors.  For example, if you don't use CP on garnet, it will look like a sweet cherry color.  Many colors that look like they match the rod will almost disappear giving a "stealth" look.  Check it out by wetting the thread on a test winding with alcohol to see what you would get.

I like metallic thread for a little bright trim, silver with some colors, gold with others, although there are many metallic colors available.

Regarding spine, most veteran builders say it doesn't make a difference, but they build in their favorite way relative to spine anyway.  I put the spine so that it makes the blank feel more stable when flexed in the manner it will be with a fish on.  This puts it on one side on regular casting rods, and on the other for spinning and spiral wrap casting rods.  Not a big deal.

Don't start building rods unless you are willing to build more than one.  You will get hooked!  It is a lot of fun and very rewarding.  I've built 3 for my son and just finished what may be my best build ever for his son for Christmas.

[FishingBuds]

how much work do you rod builder put into finding the rod spline?

This kid makes it look easy http://www.mudhole.us/vid/spining_rods_wmv.html

[flechero]

how much work do you rod builder put into finding the rod spline?

about 30 seconds is all it takes to locate and mark it.

[FishingBuds]

Questions are filled guys, wow! thanks for the info, now I must set back and take it in ;D

seriuosly you guys gave me great advice, DanekM that was good inside stuff, I'll use it.

ejtaylor822 Thanks too, great detail post on the wrapper-I'm taking notes

flechero again always thanks.

Hopefully I be posting a custom built rod by Jan 09 or Feb ;D

[HOIST-N-HAWGS]

It never ceases to amaze me how forthcoming and helpful you guys are here! My hats off to you.

I'm sure you've just turned me into another addict!

You guys are outstanding! I can't say it enough!