Do You Like Fluorocarbon Line?

[F14A-B]

Flourocarbon sink rates at feet per hour? Really?

That might be a interesting side note, but it's useless info.. Everybody fishes with some weight tied to the line, as much as I'm not a fan of FC..

It works fine throwing unweighted trick worms rigged wacky.. The combo sinks, soo.. Not sure why this point matters. Bottom line, you got to get your own hands dirty to know positively one way or another on ANY line...

[J Francho]

You only need to see someone fish a bottom bait in a tank with braid and then fluoro and then nylon to see why that "sinking" characteristic is an advantage. Float lines have pretty significant bow in them that takes about a minute to straighten out, and braid will never straighten if you keep moving it. Fluoro doesn't do that. I once watched a "local pro" doing a demo with a drop shot explaining how sensitive it was. And he couldn't feel the double digit steelhead in the tank shacking his bait over and over as it dropped to the bottom. It was funny, I asked him if he felt it and he said not at all. Pretty funny.

[livemusic]

I once watched a "local pro" doing a demo with a drop shot explaining how sensitive it was. And he couldn't feel the double digit steelhead in the tank shacking his bait over and over as it dropped to the bottom. It was funny, I asked him if he felt it and he said not at all. Pretty funny.

 

He was using what line? And what does shacking mean, biting the bait? And steelhead, you mean trout?

[Smalliesrule]

Why do you like it? I've never used it. Thinking of adding a leader to my braid but I might try fluorocarbon on its own just to try it. My buddy tried it, didn't like it.

Not really..P-Line CXX is what I choose all the time.

[Ultra7580]

Out of a few fluorocarbon lines that I've tried I've found it to be the best for spinning reels. I use it for drop shoting, casting light lipless cranks, jerkbaits and even dragging some tubes. It's very sensitive as well as durable. I havnt lost any lures with tastu. I wouldn't go heavier than 8lb with a spinning reel tho. Anything heavier will start to cool off when casting. I use 8lb because I drag tubes with it also.

Tell me more about Tatsu if you have a minute. I'd like to try it but the cost is holding me back. Maybe you can tell me something that will spark me.

[RoLo]

You only need to see someone fish a bottom bait in a tank with braid and then fluoro and then nylon to see why that "sinking" characteristic is an advantage. Float lines have pretty significant bow in them that takes about a minute to straighten out, and braid will never straighten if you keep moving it. Fluoro doesn't do that. I once watched a "local pro" doing a demo with a drop shot explaining how sensitive it was. And he couldn't feel the double digit steelhead in the tank shacking his bait over and over as it dropped to the bottom. It was funny, I asked him if he felt it and he said not at all. Pretty funny.

 

I agree John, fluorocarbon has the best slack-line telegraphy of any line material.

I may be wrong, but I believe this has more to with fluoro's inherent density rather than reduced line-belly.

 

IMO, line belly is the result of water resistance, therefore the line with the fattest diameter

generates the most water resistance and the largest bow in the line. For example, when a lure

is cranked or trolled the line is constantly taut. In this situation, the lure tied to braided line (a thin knife)

will run deeper than the same lure tied to fluorocarbon. In other words, the fact that fluoro

is heavier than water is quickly overridden by its greater diameter and greater water resistance.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Roger

[J Francho]

What I saw was almost no belly in fluoro. Yes, through the acrylic tank you can see the fluoro. What happens with other line, really especially with braid, is that the line, even on a short cast, follows the weight straight down, as if it were draped over something at the point of entry, no matter how far from the caster. If diameter were the only factor, then it would far less apparent with the far smaller diameter braid. I believe the demonstrator was using 10# Power Pro. He did have a fluoro leader, but it wasn't but a couple feet long and had no effect.

Now that doesn't mean I'm against braid for drop shot, in fact I've written about using that very setup in a few columns here in our articles section, but it's more of a shallow tool. Deep drops, where I probably won't be perfectly vertical - guess what, you almost never are when you're on big water, and dropping bait over the side as is commonly held - I will use straight fluoro over anything else. It's my preference and my system I've worked out for catching fish this way leverages that direct and straight line connection from hook point to rod tip.

That said, fluoro makes up the smallest percentage of line used. Two cranking rigs out of six all day, and four of my five dedicated drop shot rigs. The rest are a mix of everything, except old school nylon mono, though I have been known to slap some Siege on a reel from time to time.

[salt2fresh 95]

I think its a great leader for targeting reds and speckled trout, I just started trying to use very light flouro on a spinning set up for bass. So far I like it.

[RoLo]

especially with braid, is that the line, even on a short cast, follows the weight straight down,

as if it were draped over something at the point of entry, no matter how far from the caster. 

 

As you mentioned in the tank example, the line-belly in braid wasn't due to line diameter,

but was caused by the buoyancy of braid. I agree with that.

 

In order to give an example when line diameter does make a difference, I deviated from your tank example

and compared braid & fluoro on taut lines, as when 'cranking' or 'trolling'. Fluoro is heavier than water

so many believe that its heavier diameter actually helps fluoro to run deeper.  For comparison sake,

we have two identical diving plugs, we tie one on 15-lb braid (0.007") the other on 15-lb fluoro (0.015").

Both lures are trolled on flat lines, at the same speed and same distance astern. 

My only point is that the lure tied to braid will be running significantly deeper than the lure tied to fluoro.

The difference is due to the finer diameter and lower water-resistance of braid.

 

I'm sure bottom-drifting produces the same result as trolling. That is to say, a bottom rig tied to 15-lb fluoro

requires a lot heavier sinker to hold bottom, than the same rig on 15-lb braid.

 

Roger

[J Francho]

Thing is, we don't use 15# fluoro for that, so it's not a fair comparison. I'll be going out looking for line class records with line as small as 2#. Most are spoiled with 6# line for everyday use, not 15#. No one would use that for what I'm describing.

[ww2farmer]

As main line, no. As leader material, yes.

[RoLo]

Thing is, we don't use 15# fluoro for that, so it's not a fair comparison. I'll be going out looking for line class records with line as small as 2#. Most are spoiled with 6# line for everyday use, not 15#. No one would use that for what I'm describing.

 

The number "15" is arbitrary, it can be substituted with any number.

For a fair comparison, both numbers should be the same because I'm comparing line materials based on pound-test

My only point being, a lure towed on braid will run deeper than the same lure towed on double-wide fluorocarbon

 

Roger

[J Francho]

Not in the example I detailed, using the materials I outlined. You can change the parameters all you want to suit your opinions, it doesn't change facts.

[RoLo]

Not in the example I detailed, using the materials I outlined. You can change the parameters all you want to suit your opinions, it doesn't change facts.

 

John, I didn't disagree with your example and stated that I agreed with you.

I also said that I was deviating from your tank example, in other words, I was moving on to another point regarding flouro.

If I changed any parameters, they belonged to my example, not your example.

In any case, I thought I made that clear, but apparently I didn't. 

 

Roger 

[masterbass]

The jury is still out for me on fluoro.  I've been using braid w/leaders for everything, but I'm giving fluoro and copoly a try this year.  I fish a lot of senkos and light t rigs so I would think fluoro's slack line sensitivity and sinking properties should be perfect.  I rigged up a steez 103 with 10lb sniper and I swear I couldn't cast without fluff or all out overrun.  If there was the slightest breeze in my face or if I did any type of slinging cast it got ugly.  I got frustrated enough to remove it and spool up some 30lb pp.  The steez was back to being happy again.  I'll keep fluoro on the sv spool though because it was much more tame.  Does anyone have any tips on using fluoro on a steez 103?  I guess the spool is just too fast for me.

[kickerfish1]

I guess more importantly I am greatful to have line options to choose from. Back in the day it used to be almost exclusively Triline and Stren dominating 90% of the market. Now we have dozens of brands and at least a half a dozen line options.

Flourocarbon

Flourocarbon coated

Copolymer

Monofillament

Braid

Etc...

If you have multiple setups pick the line that best suits your needs that you feel is best or ideal for that presentation.