Jig Hookset On A Long Cast?

[WRB]

Minus adjustment for reel seat location a 6'6" rod swept from 9:00 to 12:00 (90*) will move the tip 10.362 feet. A 7' rod will move the tip 10.99 feet. The difference is .628' (7.5") Once the slack is removed it shouldn't matter what plane the sweep is made on, in as far as how much line (and hook) is moved.

I try to be quicker on the draw with jigs than plastics as they don't seem to hold them as long. I try keeping the tip low enough as working the jig so there's always some rod avilable to set the hook without too much reeling down.

The math works for a circumstance arc representing the rod tip travel. The problem is more complex, you can't use only rod tip traveling in a arc, you factor in the chord travel when the line is fixed 90' to 100' away on a horizontal plane. The difference rod tip moving the line at the fish is under 1", ( difference in angles (fish at 20' deep is about 10 degrees @ 90-100') the jig doesn't see a difference in force being applied between rods 6'6" and 7'5" in a horizontal plane, vertical plane it works.

What makes a big difference is using the reel to crank the line tight as fast as possible (reel the slack). The time used up to drop the rod tip and reel in line until the slack is taken up depends on how much line needs to be recovered, a reel recovers between 15" to 25" per reel handle turn depending on the reel IPT at 100' of line off the spool.

1 more reel handle turn recovers more line then the rod movement.

Drop the rod tip down towards the surface, ( where it should be to start with), reel quickly to take up the slack line, ( agree) set the hook works as long as the jig is still in the basses mouth, time is a problem with jigs. Slack line is also a problem the higher you hold the rod tip off the water surface. If you can't detect a strike, none of this matters.

If you are not catching big bass on jigs, you are doing something wrong. My guess is if you don't detect strikes, you are not catching bass, the bass rarely hook themselves with a jig.

Tom

[Cgrinder]

Fan out or thin your weedguards.

[Catt]

Speed is key; as Tom mentioned there is a time frame that starts with the bass "vacuuming" your jig off the bottom and lasts until they spit it. If your strike detection and subsequent hook set is in the latter half of that time frame your hookup ratio will suffer.

Drop the rod: I'm old school, I keep my rod tip high, somewhere around the 11 °clock position and I seldom drop below the 9:30 position before setting hook.

Reel the slack: Y'all talk like there are yards of line to take up! The amount of slack in your line should never be more than a turn or two of the handle.

Dropping the rod tip and reeling in slack is done simultaneously!

Set the hook: I set hook straight up bringing my reel to my chest, arching my back, and sometimes taking a step backwards. This provides more than enough power to turn a 10 lb bass's head towards me and gets her coming up!

[CalebJ]

you could start by going with a little bit longer rod like a 7'3 MH F and use a sweeping or 3/4 hook set over the shoulder, or you could try fishing just a little closer to the bank if you can seem to keep a fish on at that distance. It is generally a little harder to set the hook on a jig rather than a texas rig or something of that sort

[ABW]

I throw a football jig on 16lb sniper and have never had a problem. I throw em on a powell 714. Reel down to em and sweep the rod to the side, almost like a Carolina rig hook set.

 

Use the search tool, click on the gear icon to the far right of the search box, then type in "Oldschool horizontal jigging", read that thread.

Tom

 

I read your article and did exactly this today. Using the same rod, but a different jig this time. I was using a 3/8 oz arky from Siebert Outdoors, which has a substantially thicker wire hook than the jig I was using before. I had gotten 6 bites, and landed all 6. Thanks for the help guys.

[Ozark_Basser]

Minus adjustment for reel seat location a 6'6" rod swept from 9:00 to 12:00 (90*) will move the tip 10.362 feet. A 7' rod will move the tip 10.99 feet. The difference is .628' (7.5") Once the slack is removed it shouldn't matter what plane the sweep is made on, in as far as how much line (and hook) is moved. 

 

I try to be quicker on the draw with jigs than plastics as they don't seem to hold them as long. I try keeping the tip low enough as working the jig so there's always some rod avilable to set the hook without too much reeling down.

Did you use the formula s=r(theta) to figure this out? Lol.

[Ozark_Basser]

The math works for a circumstance arc representing the rod tip travel. The problem is more complex, you can't use only rod tip traveling in a arc, you factor in the chord travel when the line is fixed 90' to 100' away on a horizontal plane. The difference rod tip moving the line at the fish is under 1", ( difference in angles (fish at 20' deep is about 10 degrees @ 90-100') the jig doesn't see a difference in force being applied between rods 6'6" and 7'5" in a horizontal plane, vertical plane it works.

What makes a big difference is using the reel to crank the line tight as fast as possible (reel the slack). The time used up to drop the rod tip and reel in line until the slack is taken up depends on how much line needs to be recovered, a reel recovers between 15" to 25" per reel handle turn depending on the reel IPT at 100' of line off the spool.

1 more reel handle turn recovers more line then the rod movement.

Drop the rod tip down towards the surface, ( where it should be to start with), reel quickly to take up the slack line, ( agree) set the hook works as long as the jig is still in the basses mouth, time is a problem with jigs. Slack line is also a problem the higher you hold the rod tip off the water surface. If you can't detect a strike, none of this matters.

If you are not catching big bass on jigs, you are doing something wrong. My guess is if you don't detect strikes, you are not catching bass, the bass rarely hook themselves with a jig.

Tom

Tom is right though. To figure the EXACT distance traveled, it would depend on where the bait is. If you did an experiment at different distances and angles such as vertical, horizontal, or in between where the line would make a 45 degree angle with the rod tip's starting position before setting the hook, you'd find the distances wouldn't vary the same. The two graphs wouldn't be linear.

However, it would depend on how you set the hook. If you were on a horizontal plane 90' away and set the hook straight up from 0 to 90 degrees the differences wouldn't matter too much between a 7' and 6'6 rod. If you set the hook sideways or did a sweep hookset, there would still be a pretty significant difference between the two. So DVT's math is applicable, if you set the hook at the right angle.

[WRB]

I read your article and did exactly this today. Using the same rod, but a different jig this time. I was using a 3/8 oz arky from Siebert Outdoors, which has a substantially thicker wire hook than the jig I was using before. I had gotten 6 bites, and landed all 6. Thanks for the help guys.

Congratulations you solved the hook set problem and have a technique that works for you.

Tom