Super User A-Jay Posted April 2, 2015 Super User Posted April 2, 2015 Once again, a simple question with a hundred answers. So here is 101. Depends on your presentation, water temperature and the weather. Going deep or shallow or in-between? Spinning or baitcaster rig? Reel spool ratio high or low? Banging into everything to deflect or in open water? From a boat or the bank? Where are the bass? Prespawn - Spawn - Post Spawn - No Spawn? Time of year? Cloudy? Rain? Cold Front? Moon phase? Wind? Water temperature? Hitting the bank? Grass? Creeks? Flats? Points? Channels? Wood? Stickups? Season of the year? How often do you have to check the line for cuts, abrasions and nicks? Are you retying your knot after every two or three fish? Is the line within the reel's and rod's specifications so they are balanced together? How tight do you want your drag? You can note that selecting a line and test is critical to having the bait do what you want it to do. The lighter the test the deeper and faster you will get the bait to its maximum running depth. The heavier the line will avoid breakoffs and line damage due to underwater structure but may not take the crankbait to its proper depth. Mono floats while fluoro sinks. So how high in the water column do you want the bait to travel on the retrieve? If you use a baitcaster, your line test will usually start at 12 pounds. You can then go as high as the rod will allow, 17 to 20 pounds or more. If you use a spinning rig, your line test will usually start at 8 pounds. You can go up to 10 or 12, depending on the reel and rod's specifications. It is your decision to go with an abrasion resistance line or a lighter line depending on where and how you will be fishing. Now with all that written, plus what the guys wrote above and below, go with the line you feel confident in a test that will not break off but is within the parameters of each rod you use. Or just use braid. But that is for another post. See how simple the answer is????? X2 ~ This one covers it - and covers it well. Pin this one. A-Jay Quote
Global Moderator Mike L Posted April 2, 2015 Global Moderator Posted April 2, 2015 Once again, a simple question with a hundred answers. So here is 101. Depends on your presentation, water temperature and the weather. Going deep or shallow or in-between? Spinning or baitcaster rig? Reel spool ratio high or low? Banging into everything to deflect or in open water? From a boat or the bank? Where are the bass? Prespawn - Spawn - Post Spawn - No Spawn? Time of year? Cloudy? Rain? Cold Front? Moon phase? Wind? Water temperature? Hitting the bank? Grass? Creeks? Flats? Points? Channels? Wood? Stickups? Season of the year? How often do you have to check the line for cuts, abrasions and nicks? Are you retying your knot after every two or three fish? Is the line within the reel's and rod's specifications so they are balanced together? How tight do you want your drag? You can note that selecting a line and test is critical to having the bait do what you want it to do. The lighter the test the deeper and faster you will get the bait to its maximum running depth. The heavier the line will avoid breakoffs and line damage due to underwater structure but may not take the crankbait to its proper depth. Mono floats while fluoro sinks. So how high in the water column do you want the bait to travel on the retrieve? If you use a baitcaster, your line test will usually start at 12 pounds. You can then go as high as the rod will allow, 17 to 20 pounds or more. If you use a spinning rig, your line test will usually start at 8 pounds. You can go up to 10 or 12, depending on the reel and rod's specifications. It is your decision to go with an abrasion resistance line or a lighter line depending on where and how you will be fishing. Now with all that written, plus what the guys wrote above and below, go with the line you feel confident in a test that will not break off but is within the parameters of each rod you use. Or just use braid. But that is for another post. See how simple the answer is????? There Ya Go... Not much to say after this Mike Quote
bigfishbk86 Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 I would recommend not using braid. My suggestion would be 12lb CXX, but any copolymer will work in the 12-15lb test! Quote
Super User FryDog62 Posted April 3, 2015 Super User Posted April 3, 2015 12 pound Yo-Zurich Hybrid. Low stretch and great abrasion resistance... Quote
Super User Angry John Posted April 3, 2015 Super User Posted April 3, 2015 I like 10 lb YHB but 12 might be great to. Quote
DirtyDeuceGoose Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 I like 14lb trilene xl though I do throw my squarebills on mh/f rods Quote
BasshunterJGH Posted April 3, 2015 Posted April 3, 2015 I use 10lb berkley big game mono for squarebills. X2. Can't beat $9 for 1500 yards! Kvd line and lure is a must though. Quote
Trenton Posted April 4, 2015 Posted April 4, 2015 12lb hybrid line or mono. I like mono for when I'm banging tree limbs with cranks. But the hybrid for open/deep cranking for getting it down as deep as possible. Quote
OntarioFishingGuy Posted April 4, 2015 Posted April 4, 2015 Braid, usually 10-30lb test, with an 8-20lb fluorocarbon leader. Quote
Super User FishTank Posted April 5, 2015 Super User Posted April 5, 2015 I have trying out some 12lb Seagar Senshi and so far I love it. It cast well, no stretch and good knot strength. It is fluorescent above the water and invisible below. So far I like it better than the Yozuri Hybrid I have been using for years. Quote
Super User Oregon Native Posted April 5, 2015 Super User Posted April 5, 2015 !5# PP with a 12# Silver Thread leader....done Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted April 5, 2015 Super User Posted April 5, 2015 Pick a Spool - Any Spool . . A-Jay Quote
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