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Posted

I just picked up a Daiwa Lexa 100 since it was on sale for my cranking rod which is a 7'M bass pro shops crankin' stick. My question is what line should I spool the Lexa with if I were to throw mostly small squarebills like kvd 1.5's and a few a tad smaller then a 1.5?

Posted

I personally like Trilen XL 10 lb. for small square bills. I like it because it has some stretch to it and when I get a fish on between the line and the longer pole it helps keep the fish on. I think a stiffer set up allows the fish to pull the hooks out of their mouths.

  • Like 1
Posted

I like mono for the squarebills. At least fifteen. I need something that is strong, abrasion resistant so you can bang that thing around a bit, and relatively inexpensive cuz it needs to be changed out frequently. P-line cxx for me.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

20lb braid with a fluoro leader. Adjust the leader to the conditions. Generally I run 12lb for ripping grass or laydowns, bump it up to 15 for rocks and docks.

Posted

Fluoro over mono and braid for me. Gets the bait a little deeper and has better abrasion resistance.

  • Global Moderator
Posted

10-15lb copolymer for squarebills for me. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I like Berkley Iron Silk for throwing square bills/ rattle trap style baits.  The square bills I throw are generally around half an ounce.  17 or 20 lb test works best for me, for what I throw and where I throw it.

  • Global Moderator
Posted

10 to 14lb Yo Zuri depending on weight.

Mike

Posted

I like 12-14 floro or mono in warmer months and when it gets cold i drop to 8-10 floro

  • Like 1
Posted

12-15 lb mono/co-poly.  My choice is Maxima.  You could also do the same lb test in fluoro if you have more confidence in that!

Posted

I use Fluoro #12. I find it get good deep and castability with it and I haven't lost a fish yet because of line breakage... Only if I new how to tie knots properly at the start! :cry4:   

  • Super User
Posted

Once again, a simple question with a hundred answers.

 

So here is 101.

 

Depends on your presentation, water temperature and the weather.

 

Going deep or shallow or in-between?

Spinning or baitcaster rig?

Reel spool ratio high or low?

Banging into everything to deflect or in open water?

From a boat or the bank?

Where are the bass? Prespawn - Spawn - Post Spawn - No Spawn?

Time of year?

Cloudy? Rain? Cold Front? Moon phase? Wind? Water temperature?

Hitting the bank? Grass? Creeks? Flats? Points? Channels? Wood? Stickups?

Season of the year?

How often do you have to check the line for cuts, abrasions and nicks?

Are you retying your knot after every two or three fish?

Is the line within the reel's and rod's specifications so they are balanced together?

How tight do you want your drag?

 

You can note that selecting a line and test is critical to having the bait do what you want it to do.

 

The lighter the test the deeper and faster you will get the bait to its maximum running depth.

 

The heavier the line will avoid breakoffs and line damage due to underwater structure but may not take the crankbait to its proper depth.

 

Mono floats while fluoro sinks. So how high in the water column do you want the bait to travel on the retrieve?

 

If you use a baitcaster, your line test will usually start at 12 pounds. You can then go as high as the rod will allow, 17 to 20 pounds or more.

 

If you use a spinning rig, your line test will usually start at 8 pounds. You can go up to 10 or 12, depending on the reel and rod's specifications.

 

It is your decision to go with an abrasion resistance line or a lighter line depending on where and how you will be fishing.

 

Now with all that written, plus what the guys wrote above and below, go with the line you feel confident in a test that will not break off but is within the parameters of each rod you use.

 

Or just use braid. But that is for another post.

 

See how simple the answer is?????

  • Like 3
Posted

12 pound sunline reaction fc or 12 pound suffix seige

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