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Posted

I just bought a *** *** (black) 7'1" Medium power (fast action) rod.  My plan is to pair it with a left-handed retrieval Daiwa Tatula but I'm not sure whether I should get the 6.3:1 gearing or the 7.3:1.  I will be fishing a wide range of lures, including swimbaits, jigs & chatters, lipless and square bill cranks, buzz baits, and maybe even the occasional A-rig or topwater frog. The Tatula seems to have good reviews and I like the idea of magnetic brakes instead of pins. Any suggestions on what gear ratio I should get? Is it easier to slow down a fast reel or speed up a slower one?  Thanks for the help!

 

*  Feel free to push me toward the Tatula Type-R for an extra $30 if there's a good reason to do so. 

** I'll also take suggestions for line. I'm planning on braid with a fluorocarbon leader... but I can be talked into something else... or a specific brand, etc.  :)

Posted

I have 2 Tatulas (both 6.3) and 1 Type R (8.1). I use the Type R for jigs/pitching/flipping, and wanted a higher gear ratio.  Although there are other differences between the regular and Type R, I only went for the upgrade for the higher gear ratio.

 

Like most things, I think it is personal preference.  If I was in your boat, I would go with the 7.3 Tatula, mainly because of the jigs and maybe frogging applications. I use both of my 6.3s for jerkbaits and shallow cranking. I know you also mentioned some cranking uses for your reel, but I would still go with the 7.3.

 

I am sure someone here will be able to give you a better reason for choosing the 6.3 or 7.3, but I don't think you can go wrong either way.

Posted

Don't get hung up on retrieve ratios especially just starting out. 6.x:1 is "standard" if there is such a thing. Start there and you can fine tune as you develop your own style & preferences. 

Posted

the tatulas has both magnet and pin breaks.   I like the 7:3 for pitching but lower for other applications.  I tend to fish to fast anyway and a lower gear helps me slow down.  If you want to deep crank much the lower gear ratios pull it easy.  Go for the 6:3 for multi use.  

Posted

the tatulas has both magnet and pin breaks.   

 

Umm... I am pretty sure the Tatula only has MagZ brakes, no centrifugal pins. I am new to baitcasters though so I could certainly be wrong...

 

 

6.3 is probably more of an all around speed, but it is true that it's generally easier to slow down than to speed up.

Posted

crankenstien, as far as i know, the tatulas are magnetic-braked only.

 

to the OP, i'm assuming you're coming from using all spinning gear? if so, you should be aware that line retrieve rates are much higher than they are with baitcasting gear. for example, my 2500-size 6:1 gear ratio spinning reels pull in 35 to 36 Inches of line Per Turn (LPT) of the handle whereas many 6:1 baitcasters only pull in 24 to 26 IPT. even 7:1 gear ratio baitcasters only pull 28 to 31 IPT. so, if you're used to turning the handle at a certain speed, take into account the differences between the two.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

My Daiwa's all had brake shoes, I believe if you look at your spools & pull on the inductor you will notice them.. As I recall this is a overlooked part of Daiwa's design. They work on centrifugal forces, however they are not pins, perhaps someone with more exacting information will add in... You can't turn them off and on.. You can adjust the magnetic braking. I might add, all my Daiwa's were free floating spool designs..

Posted

crankenstien, as far as i know, the tatulas are magnetic-braked only.

 

to the OP, i'm assuming you're coming from using all spinning gear? if so, you should be aware that line retrieve rates are much higher than they are with baitcasting gear. for example, my 2500-size 6:1 gear ratio spinning reels pull in 35 to 36 Inches of line Per Turn (LPT) of the handle whereas many 6:1 baitcasters only pull in 24 to 26 IPT. even 7:1 gear ratio baitcasters only pull 28 to 31 IPT. so, if you're used to turning the handle at a certain speed, take into account the differences between the two.

 

Yes, I've only fished with spinning gear... and relatively low-quality, cheapo stuff.  This is my first "legit" bass fishing setup. I've been "tinkering" with fishing for almost a decade and I'm ready to get a little more serious about it. This site (and the forums in particular) has been a huge help. Thanks again for your insight on the gears.  

And thanks to everyone else who chimed in.  

Posted

My mistake.  It is just magnet breaks.  It has been to long since November.   Sorry about that..  Still a great casting and all around reel. 

  • Super User
Posted

I'd go with a 7.1:1. Then again I'm not in the norm when it comes to gear ratios since I use 7.1:1 for pretty much everything.

  • Super User
Posted

The only thing I miss with my Chronarch 50e reels

is that they aren't 7.x:1. I love faster retrieve reels

for my style.

 

I'd opt for the 7.3:1 if I were in your shoes. My Lexa

is 7.1:1 and it's great.

 

And you are fine to go with braid + leader. I find when

I get a backlash, braid is much easier (and more forgiving)

to pick out than when I used mono/copoly lines which

will kink, resulting in weak spots. 

Posted

The only thing I miss with my Chronarch 50e reels is that they aren't 7.x:1. I love faster retrieve reels for my style.

hey darrenM, you should drop a set of core 50 gears into your chronarch 50e to get the 7:1 gear ratio you want...i did it on my chronarch 50e and my scorpion 1001XT...it was easy.

  • Super User
Posted

The solution to your dilemma is simple: BUY BOTH!

  • Super User
Posted

hey darrenM, you should drop a set of core 50 gears into your chronarch 50e to get the 7:1 gear ratio you want...i did it on my chronarch 50e and my scorpion 1001XT...it was easy.

 

I've heard/read of this being done, but Is it expensive?

And can you point me to where I could get the gears?

Posted

6.X:1 or a 26-28 IPT reel. Reel faster if needed, reel slower if needed

Posted

I've heard/read of this being done, but Is it expensive? And can you point me to where I could get the gears?

get them directly from shimano at https://fishshop.shimano.com. the parts you want are from the core 50MG7: the main drive gear is BNT4046 and costs $12.84 and the pinion gear is BNT4050 and costs $8.56. that's it. there are two optional parts: the key washer (BNT3941 for $4.94) and a larger drag washer but i never changed those myself. shipping used to be $3.00 for your entire order but i've heard it is closer to $6 now. (for the curado/chronarch 51E, get the equivalent left-handed parts from the core 51MG7)

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

get them directly from shimano at https://fishshop.shimano.com. the parts you want are from the core 50MG7: the main drive gear is BNT4046 and costs $12.84 and the pinion gear is BNT4050 and costs $8.56. that's it. there are two optional parts: the key washer (BNT3941 for $4.94) and a larger drag washer but i never changed those myself. shipping used to be $3.00 for your entire order but i've heard it is closer to $6 now. (for the curado/chronarch 51E, get the equivalent left-handed parts from the core 51MG7)

 

Not expensive at all! Thanks for the tip.

 

I'm going to strongly consider doing this.

 

Is the actual gear replacement easy?

Posted

Not expensive at all! Thanks for the tip. I'm going to strongly consider doing this. Is the actual gear replacement easy?

yes, super easy if you're comfortable opening up a casting reel...just swap out the main gear and the pinion gear. it will be a good opportunity to examine your drag washer for wear too.

 

now, before you do it, you should be aware that the curado/chronarch gears are brass while the core gears are aluminum...you'll save weight with the aluminum gears but they won't be as smooth feeling.

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