Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 What is the best way to apply fiberglass resin to a large wooden swimbait to make it come out as smooth as possible? I tried brushing it on thick and letting it flow out, still a bit sloppy. I'm going to fully dip one and hang it today, but I can't see this being any cleaner. Wondering if throwing the heat gun at it to give it a quicker kick might help Suggestions? I'm open to alternative materials. Thanks Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted July 27, 2008 Super User Posted July 27, 2008 i've never heard of anyone putting fiberglass resin on a swimbait, or any bait at all... are you trying to put this on for the clear coat? if what you are after is a thick, strong, clearcoat, then you should use Devcon 2-Ton epoxy. pick it up at your hardware store. comes in a two part syringe. what most people do is mix this stuff reallllllly well on a post-it or the bottom of a soda can, and then brush it evenly on the bait. then they rig their bait up on a lure turner, which slowly rotates the lure so that the epoxy will not sag or run. hope that helped a little. Quote
BIG M Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 LBH, what is the brand name of the product you are using? I use devcon 2ton on all my baits. You will need a way to rotate your lure as the epoxy sets up. On my jointed baits I paint and clear each half separate. Then once the epoxy is cured I put them together. If you are trying to protect the finish on a store bought bait then spray polyurathane might be something you want to look into. 4-6 light coats would give you pretty good protection and not clog up the joints. Quote
Super User flechero Posted July 28, 2008 Super User Posted July 28, 2008 Russ, You can thin devcon 2 ton epoxy with acetone. It's a finish we use when making traditional bows. It's very easy. [i've also used fiberglass resin with only mediocre results.] For the epoxy finish I use a shot glass with tablespoon marks all the way up one side. You can get the little plastic cups with graduated markings also. Add one TBSP devcon (1/2 TBSP of each part) For the first coat we thin the (already mixed) devcon 1:5 with acetone when working with oily hardwoods and 1:4 when working with "normal woods." Paint it on over and over and over- the acetone will open the pores of the wood just enough to really suck in the devcon. But remember that at 1:5 you aren't getting much epoxy in there so don't be shy, keep painting and the acetone will keep evaporating, depositing small amopunts of epoxy into the pores. This first coat get the epoxy deep into the wood... sort of like pressure treating. After that, I always went to a 1:3 mix for coats 2 and 3 and if a thicker coat or high gloss was desired, I went with a 4th coat at 1:1. You can steel wool it to satin or matte or buff to a high luster. FYI- Devcon is not clear. It tints about like linseed oil or tru oil. Oh yeah, no need to rotate the item since you are "painting" on thin coats... you won't have enough to run. And it's a stronger finish because it's impregnated into the wood as opposed to a surface coat that will chip and or peel with time and wear. Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. Keith Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted July 28, 2008 Super User Posted July 28, 2008 flech, does that method of soaking the epoxy into the wood using acetone work when its applied OVER paintjob or foil job? Quote
Super User flechero Posted July 28, 2008 Super User Posted July 28, 2008 flech, does that method of soaking the epoxy into the wood using acetone work when its applied OVER paintjob or foil job? No it wouldn't because the paint would seal the outside of the wood... and the acetone would probably destroy the paint. you could paint over the epoxy job, but that's a little extra work on the paint job. Might be worth it for swimbaits but I doubt it for regular crankbaits. I didn't think about paint jobs before I posted. Oh well, the advice is worth what you paid for it! ...lol Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted July 28, 2008 Super User Posted July 28, 2008 haha i didn't think it would work over paint. with hard baits, the last thing that is applied has to be epoxy. you can paint over epoxy relativley easily, but you would have to put another coat of epoxy over the paint. your paint can't be exposed to the fish or water or it will get ruined quick. Quote
BIG M Posted July 28, 2008 Posted July 28, 2008 I prefer to thin devcon with denatured alcohol, it's doesn't gas off as fast as acetone and no fumes to deal with. I put a thinned coat of devcon on my baits before I paint. That way you get a nice smooth surface to paint on. I also seal the wood before the thinned coat of devcon. You can't have too much protection from the water. Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted July 28, 2008 Author Posted July 28, 2008 Thank you for all the replies and PM's gentlemen Quote
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