Wiring Question Without Cranking Battery

[jay42782]

Ok so its been awhile since I have wired a boat without any wires to start with.All of my recent boats have been factory wired boats with the addition/upgrade of electronics.most of my searches have come up with cranking/trolling setups

 

Current rig: 12' bass tracker tadpole with a pull start outboard (no cranking power needed) and no wiring whatsoever.

 

Equipment going in boat: Minn Kota Terrova 54'' 12v with I-Link, Humminbird 859 DI, Hydrowave

 

What kind of switches,fuses,panels,battery,grounding...etc do you recommend?

 

This is a temporary setup until my next boat is purchased

 

Thanks in advance!

[Angry John]

The length of run between battery and motor makes a big difference. The longer the run the larger the gauge I prefer. The fish finder should do fine on 10 or 12 gauge.

[jay42782]

thanks john i appreciate your help

[Way2slow]

16 guage wir is more than adequate to run what you are wanting, 18ga will even work just fine. There is no need to run that big heavy wire. You are going to be pulling way less than five amps, and 18 will do that just fine. I just like 16 because it's a little tougher.

The sonar is probably going to to be pulling 2 amps max, don't know anything about the hydrowave but you should be able tore look in the manual, I doubt it's over a couple of amps.

As for what size fuse, the sonar should have come with a power cord and fuse holder, use that and what ever size fuse the manual recommends, probably no more than a three amp, same thing with the Hydrowave.

Fuses are typically 150-200% over what the actual load is so if you use the those to determine wire guage, you will have more than large enough wire.

If you are wanting to put them on a master power switch, get you a weather proof bat or rocker switch in a 15 amp SPST.

If you use 16ga wire, get the blue crimp on connectors, if 18ga, use the red.

As for wiring it, the battery negative (ground) will go directly to the negative wire on each piece of of equipment, it can be just one wire, going to one piece, and from that piece to the next.

The battery positive will one wire from the battery to the switch if you install one with a 10 amp fuse connecting it to the battery for fire protection in case the wire gets shorted so you want that fuse at the battery,

You will run each piece of equipments fuse to the other side of the switch. If you don't install a switch, just connect the two positive wires together and then to the wire going to the battery positive. Make sure each piece of equipment has its own fuse and it's the size fuse the manufacture recommends.

Forgot to mention, if you get a piece of stranded, two conductor 16 or 18ga cable, lamp cord, extension cord etc, to run from the battery to where you are going to mount everything, it makes a cleaner, easier installation. Also the finer the strand, the better, handles vibration and moving it better. DO NOT use solid strand wire, breaks to easy when having to handle it much connecting and disconnecting the battery.

[AllBass]

I have a 15ft Lowes Jon boat with 25hp pull start I use on a small lake. I wired the whole boat with trolling motor (40 Motor Guide) and 2 depth finders (one down scan an one side scan). Bought 2 batteries one deep cell for trolling motor and lawn mower battery for depth finders and lights. Can fish 10 to 12 hour day with no problem. It works for me.

[jay42782]

wow! great info guys and thank you for the help!

[Angry John]

I was guessing your battery was in back and your units in front. For my idea I thought you would want one power wire to supply for both sonar and hydrowave. Less wires to screw with. Does your units not have installed fuses? Larger wire has less resistance and gives better power transfer. As stated single conductor wire is not good for a boat IMO. Are you running one battery for everything? How long are your runs. I default to having reserve as if I want to add another load I will not have to start over. Everyone has their own ways.

[jay42782]

i had planned on running one battery but may rethink this as my outboard that came with this boat is a mid 70's evinrude.not that i don't trust it but you never know.

i will have to look but pretty sure my humminbird had a fuse and hydrowave did not...don't quote me on that

i should have been more specific on fuses.seems like most guys are buying the prewired 6 switch panels and running everything to it.was not sure if i should go that route or not

have not determined battery location/locations yet.boat is only 12'and from factory where the seats mount is basically a box with the sides being open so may put them there.

i would say worst case with two batteries the longest run would be 10'

another thing on grounding seems like a read multiple times was to make sure the outboard is grounded? not sure if this only applies to an electric star unit or what

[Way2slow]

The only reason you would need a six switch panel would be if you plan to run front and rear live well pumps nav lights bilge pump, electric anchors, power poles, and other stuff. In reality, you will never need more than two or three.

If you think you are going you are going to be needling something like that, then you will want to run 10-12 guage wire to the main power switch to insure you will have large enough wire to run everything a panel that size can handle. Also you will need to increase the fuse/circuit breaker at the battery to a 20-30 amp.

[retiredbosn]

A good source of wire for the trolling motor is a good set of jumper cables. When I re-wired the TM on my old boat, I priced the wire at a hardware store, I can't remember the price but a set of jumper cables was half the amount. Same gauge hardest part was finding a set long enough, you can get them up to twenty feet long. I just cut the clamps off was super easy, plus the rubber insulation was thicker so I didn't worry about chaffing.

[Angry John]

Might be able to find a used set of jumpers at a garage sale or flea market. Good deals always happen after you do something else

[jay42782]

thank you everyone would helped me get through the wiring on my boat!been super busy last few days with work and getting boat/gear ready.

anytime i do a project like this i tend to go a little over kill but thought since i am already in this far might as well go all out.every connection was either heat shrinked or soldered and rubber grommets where ever wire came into contact with an aluminum edge.i also replaced the floor as the wood was rotted.ended up going with foam.i will attach a few photos.again thank you for your help!

[Kyle Olson]

Hey was wondering how you did the deck on your tadpole? Could you please post more pics I just bought one and want to do the same thing! Thanks 

 

[Way2slow]

Very nice.  Be sure to add a hold down for the battery. 

I did notice one thing I would not have done.  Your main cables are connected with 1/4" spade connectors.  Those can get loose, corrode etc, and cause problems.  I would have used eyelets and screwed them to the buss bars with self locking nuts on them and them some liquid tape on them.