Learned a very valuable lesson�.

[ejtaylor822]

OK, you custom rod guys have me really going.  

Have been practicing on a lot of dowels and re-doing one of my FIL's old rods.  Have also been working on string winder and decided was good opportunity to practice setting real seats and maybe some decorative wraps - will show the finished winder once complete.

Anyway, that's the background.

So, last night I finish up a very simple box pattern wrap for the one of the "rods" (5/8" dowel) on the string winder - very simple nothing fancy.  Pack it thoroughly and burnish - pleased with my first "real" attempt.  

Start wrapping the "tip" end tie-off.  Wanted to try some decorative wrap inlays so after about 3/8" I stop to insert the next color.  The tape was a little close and the tie-off should be good so I start CAREFULLY cutting the tape and excess string.  Well I am cutting towards the wrap and guess what?  The blade slips and cuts the tie-off winding string releasing some of the tension.

I just sit there in disbelief - was being so careful and like - THAT- disaster.

Fortunately the wrap tension didn't release that much, just the first few windings on the outside of the pattern.  I had already trimmed and cut the wrap threads so didn't have a lot to grab and tighten back up, but, I was more concerned about more of the wrap coming off.  Got that fixed but then started another tie off ahead of the original and retightened the wrap.

Was able to avoid a total disaster, but spent quite a bit of time fixing this.

Lesson learned:  DO NOT CUT TOWARDS THE WRAP.

Anyone else want to share a valuable lesson learned the hard way?

[guitarkid]

Look at the bright side, you still have all ten fingers. Razors can be dangerous. You could try x-acto knife? just trying to give my$.02

                      -searoach

[IneedAnewScreenName-3271]

I highly admire the craftsmanship of rod makers and your post was very informative. The biggest thing is "lesson learned". As in lure making or anything else in life, if we never made a mistake we'd never learn anything.

[flechero]

Thread work takes some getting used to... you can ruin hours worth of work in the blink of an eye if you aren't careful. I applaud your effort in practicing... it will pay off in spades down the road!!

here are a couple nuggets to get started with...

-Reaming cork grips can be humbling if you hold the cork in the same place.... you need to rotate your grip with every pass of the reamer or else you'll end up with an off-center hole and a grip that's not lined up at the reel seat.

-30 seconds with a needle file can save you lots of time and hassle when wrapping guides... the feet need to have a nice smooth but not sharp transition.

-scotchbright pads are worth every penny and "water-break free surfaces" are not a catch phrase.

-less finish will level better.

-hot melt glue is a better product in northern climates. ...lol

-a minor imperfection in thread becomes a major imperfection after finish is applied... the finish has a magnifying glass effect. Most likely you will be the only one to ever notice, but it seems to get bigger each time you do.

[ejtaylor822]

Yes, Searoach, I agree and thankfull was not hurt - one of the reasons was being careful.  I do use an X-acto knife for trimming and cutting.

Lure Guy, I sure am learning a lot!!!!    ;D

Flechero, thanks so much for the feedback.  Been practicing quite a bit.  Got a 1/4" dowel that have went up and down practicing wraps and coating.  You are right, amazing how the slightest little fuzzy can "GROW".  At least I am getting practice at sanding them out.   :  The few I have redone - using 220 grit and reapplying just does not look as good.  So, working hard at just trying to get rid of before I finish.  Using an alcohol lamp to burn off and helping some - also just being more cautious.

I have yet to start reaming cork - sure that will be a challenge.

Thanks,

Eddie

[flechero]

The few I have redone - using 220 grit and reapplying just does not look as good.

You might consider a finer grit. I use scotch bright or 600 grit paper on finish that needs repair/recoat, if it's out of the "recoat" window. If you are not cutting anything (like fuzzies) try just scuffing with a scotch bright pad. The only thing I use 220 for is shaping cork and "trueing" reel seat necks, after cutting them down. (but I still finish them off with 400 and 600)

I use a fine needle file to cut fuzzies, it's a cleaner cut that doesn't gouge the finish. Literally and lightly touch a moving file to the fuzzy and it is cut cleanly off with a minimum of disruption to the rest of the finish.

You'll get less fuzzies as you practice.. and you'll get better at seeing them before you apply finish... so you'll have to deal with them less and less.

[NorDoor]

 I just finished stripping rod build #2 which was epoxied >

I re wrapped it yesterday and applied a finish on it this morning. Still learning the nuances of thie finish I work with. Lesson learned?Don't apply a second coat of Diamondite over a tacky 1st coat to try and get the first coat to kick! The Diamondite is actually an adhesive NOT an epoxy.

[ejtaylor822]

Flechero, good point. I will go to a higher grit and give it a shot. Never even thought about the needle file - that's a great idea. Will get me one and give that a try. The ones I did practice on I was "reasonably satisfied" with - looked a little splotchy where I did the touch up - like you said earlier, I would proabably be the only one that notices. I didn't pay attention to my rod warps until I started getting into this and was amazed at the "quality" I had bought.

NorDoor, I hear ya. Your first rod was awesome though. Remember those pics and sure this one will be great as well.

One thing I have "learned" that might help, and flechero (and others) would love to hear your feedback, is that the flexcoat finish is awesome. In my practicing have tried flexcoat, Devcon and (think it was) Rodbuilder that I picked up at the expo - copjle CC's in a syringe. To me, the FlexCoat kills them all. The last wrapping I did after two coats of FlexCoat it looked like glass - I am sold on light build FlexCoat.

[NorDoor]

I'm sure I'll get into other finishes as time goes by.Flex coat from what I've read is a very popular choice. I've had good luck so far except screwing up my mix ratio this last time.

[flechero]

Sorry, I can't give you much info... I don't have any experience with Flex coat.  I've been using Threadmaster since I started building rods (which coincidently was the time it came out on the market.)  It's as close to foolproof as you can get...  not to mention it is super easy to work with and has all the qualities I want in a finish.

ReelMech uses and has used Flexcoat for years (exclusively, I think) and likes it a lot.  

[Alpster]

I just wanted to get in here because I love talking about rod building.

1. I use a high quality pair of fly tying scissors for trimming thread and never have to worry about damaging the blank or wraps.

2. I like Flexcoat. I follow the instructions for using high build from their website. Look for "exactly the way we do it" on their site. Use syringes to be sure the mixture is perfect. I have also found that working in a very warm room is a great help. I turn up the heat or go out to the garage in the summer. The finish behaves much differently (better) at 85 degrees than at 65. This year I will build a heated drying box.

3. Biggest mistake I have made and repeated is trying to heat the finish (with heat gun) to remove bubbles after coating. I have found that proper preparation and careful mixing will solve bubble problems. I only apply heat in extreme cases where I have screwed up and am  trying to save a rod build. I have a couple of beater rods that prove that it does not always work. LOL

Keep on keeping on.

Ronnie

[JayW]

I have used several other brands, but I always prefer Flexcoat for my personal rods. It's real easy to use! I always flash everything with a alcohol lamp, but just flash it real quick. I get a bubble free coat that way.