fishingdanderson Posted March 25, 2008 Posted March 25, 2008 I know they make the stuff I was just wondering if it will work for cranks. I have the tacklemaking bood and I know that you can make some kinds of lures out of clear resin but I just don't know that it will work for cranks. I was curious about alumilite clear. I don't know what all the numbers mean as far as viscosity and all that so I was hoping some else has some insight. If the alumilite clear would work I was thinking that the microbubbles would make it cloudy and therefore the clear lip(the only reason I want to use clear) would be cloudy also. Someone help out PLEASE!!! I tried over at TU and got no response. I hope that is different here. Thanks in advance. Dan Quote
Super User Munkin Posted March 26, 2008 Super User Posted March 26, 2008 While I am not sure I think the microballoons would cloud the resin? I am not sure what kind of baits you are making but when I copied a RC 1.5 the resin bill was not strong enough. Allen Quote
fishingdanderson Posted March 27, 2008 Author Posted March 27, 2008 were you using the clear alumilite or something else? Quote
Super User Munkin Posted March 27, 2008 Super User Posted March 27, 2008 were you using the clear alumilite or something else? Regular Aluminite and with the microballoons the bait comes out whitish? Allen Quote
jfowler Posted March 28, 2008 Posted March 28, 2008 try smooth-on they have alot of choices of clear casting resins Quote
RedG8r Posted March 29, 2008 Posted March 29, 2008 I tried over at TU and got no response. I hope that is different here.Dan :-? I counted 13 responses there Again & this is from my own research over the last half decade. There is no clear, pourable casting resin suitable for crankbait lips without using the industrial urethanes from companies like alumilite & Smooth-on. They are readily available, but get yourself intimately acquainted with the MSDS sheet, they might not even sell it to you unless you can prove you are an industrial manufacturer. Main concerns: Pressure cast - the urethane is somewhat less viscous & will hold air bubbles unless they are compressed until cured. Added toxic exposure - Read up & you will see the product needs much ventilation & personal respiratory protection. Post cure - The castings need to be baked to attain its intended hardness & strength, not a biggie, but it is an added step. Again, my recommendation would be to make or buy polycarbonate or high impact injected diving bills, add them into your mold, then cast your featherlite or urethane foam. If you do decide to try the industrial urethane clears, please report your findings to us here & @ TU if you dont mind. All the best, Jerry "redg8r" Quote
fishingdanderson Posted March 31, 2008 Author Posted March 31, 2008 fishingdanderson wrote on Mar 24th, 2008, 11:28pm:I tried over at TU and got no response. I hope that is different here. Dan I counted 13 responses there Easy there big fella. Look at the dates it took a while before I heard anything. I just thought no one had really messed with it. Not knockin' anyone down. I got plenty of responses it was just a day or two. It was actually a little longer here so I realized it wasn't done much because of the physicalities of the stuff. Thanks for all the info. Quote
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